New Year Teaser
#101
Well, I was still running my factory coil which is now 17yo and has 230k miles on it, figured it wouldn't hurt to replace. They're mixed opinions about them. Some say that the factory coil is better, some say the MSD coil is better. I want to find out for myself. But a lot of the people that have them say their car is stronger with the MSD in.
Tune + MSD = no start
Stock ECU + MSD = no start
Stock ECU + stock coil = start
Tune + stock coil = radiator fan running by itself and no start.
Tune + MSD = no start
Stock ECU + MSD = no start
Stock ECU + stock coil = start
Tune + stock coil = radiator fan running by itself and no start.
On the ECU: hopefully this time the technician will pay attention to his laptop screen and not the NCAA game. I want to do something to my M4.4, which looks to be very different from the M4.3. I want to do it DIY though.
#102
I am big fan of MSD -- had it in one of my Econoline vans. Replaced a Bosch unit.
On the ECU: hopefully this time the technician will pay attention to his laptop screen and not the NCAA game. I want to do something to my M4.4, which looks to be very different from the M4.3. I want to do it DIY though.
On the ECU: hopefully this time the technician will pay attention to his laptop screen and not the NCAA game. I want to do something to my M4.4, which looks to be very different from the M4.3. I want to do it DIY though.
#103
For 52 shipped from Summit, can't complain. I'd toss in an MSD. The biggest thing is mounting it and you need a different coil wire.
#104
The chip is fine. It's the soldering points most likely is what he said. Simple mistake. Pain in the *** though. But he's paying for overnight shipping to and from Viva. So I'm sure he'll make sure he gets it right this time since he already spent 10% of what he made just having it shipped back to him and back to me.
#105
Yeah, he should get it back out to me by Tuesday at the latest I assume....at least he better. I need it by Thursday since I'm leaving for VA on Friday and am driving my car there. lol.
For 52 shipped from Summit, can't complain. I'd toss in an MSD. The biggest thing is mounting it and you need a different coil wire.
For 52 shipped from Summit, can't complain. I'd toss in an MSD. The biggest thing is mounting it and you need a different coil wire.
#106
And it definitely was a bad coil. I just check continuity between both coil wires (MSD and factory just for comparison) and both had continuity and the same numbers. So, it's the coil and not the wire. Meh. Oh well, at least I'll have a fresh coil going in, should wake it up a bit.
#108
Man, that car is freeking low. I don't know if you left for the east cost yet but you will be dragging everywhere. Don't even think about driving through the Pittsburgh area before they get the pot holes fixed in May. You will need to replace everything under the car from the new plate bracket to the tail pipe tip.
I really don't know how you do it with the front wheels/tires rubbing? I'm not down an inch and lost two front tires last year.
I really don't know how you do it with the front wheels/tires rubbing? I'm not down an inch and lost two front tires last year.
#109
Tune is in and the car works. Will post some picture of it or something this upcoming week when I'm on vacation.
The car isn't all that low. The picture makes it look a lot lower than it actually is. Will not be going into Pittsburgh at all. Will be about an hour south of it. and my tires do not rub at all, front or rear. The only time I get some rubbing is at full lock, otherwise they have never rubbed. Keep in mind too your suspension is probably like rubber bands compared to mine that will allow for a lot more movement up and down. If you sit on the fender of my car right above the wheel.....it will not move.
Man, that car is freeking low. I don't know if you left for the east cost yet but you will be dragging everywhere. Don't even think about driving through the Pittsburgh area before they get the pot holes fixed in May. You will need to replace everything under the car from the new plate bracket to the tail pipe tip.
I really don't know how you do it with the front wheels/tires rubbing? I'm not down an inch and lost two front tires last year.
I really don't know how you do it with the front wheels/tires rubbing? I'm not down an inch and lost two front tires last year.
#112
Thanks, heading out today and going to play with the EBC settings on the way to Chicago.
There will definitely be some pics today. Going to Dayton, OH tonight and then heading out from there to VA, but meeting up with a couple friends from VS in Chicago, and then we're all driving down to Dayton together to spend a night at a guy's house who's also from VS and he's having some other guys from VS and TB over. Little MWC meet to start off Spring Break. Should be a good time.
There will definitely be some pics today. Going to Dayton, OH tonight and then heading out from there to VA, but meeting up with a couple friends from VS in Chicago, and then we're all driving down to Dayton together to spend a night at a guy's house who's also from VS and he's having some other guys from VS and TB over. Little MWC meet to start off Spring Break. Should be a good time.
#113
#115
#118
Oh yeah. She had fun. Car did great too. Ride was extremely harsh through Indiana, they have some horrible roads. I need a driver side axle too, got some grease splatters on my wheel, won't know for sure until I get under it. And still have some clunking, going to try something out with the sway bar to see if it helps. And the used radiator I put in is starting to go out, I have an oily film in the coolant reservoir, so I'm going to put in an aftermarket oil cooler.
And yes, I tinted the tails because they have the ugly orange turn signals on them.
Meeting up with some friends from VS in Indiana to caravan down to Dayton together:
And yes, I tinted the tails because they have the ugly orange turn signals on them.
Meeting up with some friends from VS in Indiana to caravan down to Dayton together:
#119
I thought you did both axles.
I see your point on lowering it more -- there still seems to be some daylight on the front fenders.
A $ 180 Nissen will be good for another 10 years, so I really don't see the reason for going aftermarket on the oil cooler. Cooler-Inside-Radiator is a very efficient way of bringing car to temp quickly and cooling well subsequently. A decent radiator is the way to go I think.
I am thinking using translucent paint on my tails.
I see your point on lowering it more -- there still seems to be some daylight on the front fenders.
A $ 180 Nissen will be good for another 10 years, so I really don't see the reason for going aftermarket on the oil cooler. Cooler-Inside-Radiator is a very efficient way of bringing car to temp quickly and cooling well subsequently. A decent radiator is the way to go I think.
I am thinking using translucent paint on my tails.
#120
Yeah, I'm still on the edge if I want to just get a new Nissens from FCP or go with the oil cooler. I think I'm forgetting that if I do the oil cooler, yes, I won't be mixing my oil and coolant anymore, but I'll still have a bad radiator. I just realllly want to get rid of those annoying oil cooler lines, I'm also contemplating putting on a 99+ oil pan with the oil cooler built in, but then I would have to do the hard pipe on the back of the block too and that would involve taking off the turbo and all of the coolant hoses and I just don't feel like doing that. If I just get a new radiator, I won't have to deal with it for a long time, I should have just done that instead of putting in a used one. Oh well, live and learn.
I have a friend who just built some diy rear coilovers for the rear using some 9" coil springs (not the same set up that the person on VS did using the tiny coil over springs), but these springs are the same diameter as the factory ones. So I'm waiting to see what his final thoughts are on it. That's still a ways down the road though, I have to do this other stuff first.
I only did the passenger axle, which is now leaking at the seal, even with a new seal in it, so I will do the driver axle with new seals on both sides. I'm also going to do 302s right away, and the radiator. I'm glad this all just minor things though (still expensive), it's nice having a car I can drive whenever I want to again. lol.
I also still have some clunking in front. I have no idea what it is. I hope I didn't blow my spring seats and strut mounts again. lol. I have an extra set of basically the entire front suspension (spring seats/strut mounts, control arms, and IPD HD links), so I'll check that out, and adjust the sway bar like someone suggested may be the issue.
I have a friend who just built some diy rear coilovers for the rear using some 9" coil springs (not the same set up that the person on VS did using the tiny coil over springs), but these springs are the same diameter as the factory ones. So I'm waiting to see what his final thoughts are on it. That's still a ways down the road though, I have to do this other stuff first.
I only did the passenger axle, which is now leaking at the seal, even with a new seal in it, so I will do the driver axle with new seals on both sides. I'm also going to do 302s right away, and the radiator. I'm glad this all just minor things though (still expensive), it's nice having a car I can drive whenever I want to again. lol.
I also still have some clunking in front. I have no idea what it is. I hope I didn't blow my spring seats and strut mounts again. lol. I have an extra set of basically the entire front suspension (spring seats/strut mounts, control arms, and IPD HD links), so I'll check that out, and adjust the sway bar like someone suggested may be the issue.