No spark or OBDII
#1
07-14-2018, 02:31 PM
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No spark or OBDII
Hi guys,
I have a 1997 volvo 850r. I just have replaced the head gasket along with the m56 transmission. When I purchased the car the swap was already done, but needed another m56 cause syncro in gear 3 was gone.
Got the car all back together but the car would not want to start, no spark, except for one time. The spark lasted about 5 mins and then the spark disappeared. When car was getting spark it was not wanting to start up so we checked compression which is fine. Half way through the compression test, we did loose spark. After we lost spark we connected a noid lite to the fuel injector which never lite up. But am getting fuel pressure. I have checked ever single thread on this problem but still haven’t gotten anywhere with the car. I’m also not able to connect with the obd2. I checked the obd2 power and am getting 12v (black in 4 red in 16). The code reader powers up but doesn’t connect. (works on other cars). All of the lights on the dash light up except the check engine light.
My dad also has an 850r 1996 with a manual swap so I’m able to swap and compare sensors.
I have swapped the ecu, cam sensor, crank sensor, change the polarity of the crank sensor (never touched or changed the fly wheel), the red 103 fuel relay, the gray fuel relay next to fan, swaped the J relays bellow the 101&102 relay, the ignition coil, ignition switch, fuses 1-35 are fine and not blown. The grounds are fine, the metal plate for the cam sensor is on right( not flipped), the distributor is in the correct position, the timing is spot on. The imobalizer is not on (sunroof and windows are working), new maf sensor.
My coil blue wire whe key is in position 3 is reading at 10.76v and 10v when cranking.My coil red wire when key is in position 3 is reading at 10.76v and 10v when cranking. I know the battery is low and am charging it now.
Please help, any advice is welcome. Suggestions on resistance testing, guidelines for sensors to properly function, anything. We are stumped.
I have a 1997 volvo 850r. I just have replaced the head gasket along with the m56 transmission. When I purchased the car the swap was already done, but needed another m56 cause syncro in gear 3 was gone.
Got the car all back together but the car would not want to start, no spark, except for one time. The spark lasted about 5 mins and then the spark disappeared. When car was getting spark it was not wanting to start up so we checked compression which is fine. Half way through the compression test, we did loose spark. After we lost spark we connected a noid lite to the fuel injector which never lite up. But am getting fuel pressure. I have checked ever single thread on this problem but still haven’t gotten anywhere with the car. I’m also not able to connect with the obd2. I checked the obd2 power and am getting 12v (black in 4 red in 16). The code reader powers up but doesn’t connect. (works on other cars). All of the lights on the dash light up except the check engine light.
My dad also has an 850r 1996 with a manual swap so I’m able to swap and compare sensors.
I have swapped the ecu, cam sensor, crank sensor, change the polarity of the crank sensor (never touched or changed the fly wheel), the red 103 fuel relay, the gray fuel relay next to fan, swaped the J relays bellow the 101&102 relay, the ignition coil, ignition switch, fuses 1-35 are fine and not blown. The grounds are fine, the metal plate for the cam sensor is on right( not flipped), the distributor is in the correct position, the timing is spot on. The imobalizer is not on (sunroof and windows are working), new maf sensor.
My coil blue wire whe key is in position 3 is reading at 10.76v and 10v when cranking.My coil red wire when key is in position 3 is reading at 10.76v and 10v when cranking. I know the battery is low and am charging it now.
Please help, any advice is welcome. Suggestions on resistance testing, guidelines for sensors to properly function, anything. We are stumped.
#3
07-14-2018, 04:49 PM
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#5
07-14-2018, 07:07 PM
I know that this will not be welcome news, but you need to go back to the basics. If you cannot connect or "communicate" with the engine computer, that fact leads me to believe that you have a power or ground issue. Chase the wires and see if there is something unplugged. Make sure that all of the plugs on the transmission are connected.
If you have the ECM removal tool, I would also recommend using same to remove the ECU and reseat it in the carrier. My suggestion is to use a lot of spray silicone so that the plastic mechanism slides nice since after 21 years it will not just fall out.
I suspect that you missed something or popped a fuse. Check the basics.
If you have the ECM removal tool, I would also recommend using same to remove the ECU and reseat it in the carrier. My suggestion is to use a lot of spray silicone so that the plastic mechanism slides nice since after 21 years it will not just fall out.
I suspect that you missed something or popped a fuse. Check the basics.
#6
07-15-2018, 12:01 AM
Senior Member
I sound like a broken record, but the ECU power issue on these cars is usually the plug on the fuel injection relay. It powers a few pins on the computer and when it loses contact, it goes brain dead.
I'm not saying you need a relay. What you need is power on that circuit. The usual problem is the plug. This is the big relay that on earlier 850's was mounted on the top of the radiator. The 1997's had it relocated. I am sure you know all this if you are manual swapping an 850R.
I'm not saying you need a relay. What you need is power on that circuit. The usual problem is the plug. This is the big relay that on earlier 850's was mounted on the top of the radiator. The 1997's had it relocated. I am sure you know all this if you are manual swapping an 850R.
#7
07-15-2018, 02:07 AM
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I sound like a broken record, but the ECU power issue on these cars is usually the plug on the fuel injection relay. It powers a few pins on the computer and when it loses contact, it goes brain dead.
I'm not saying you need a relay. What you need is power on that circuit. The usual problem is the plug. This is the big relay that on earlier 850's was mounted on the top of the radiator. The 1997's had it relocated. I am sure you know all this if you are manual swapping an 850R.
I'm not saying you need a relay. What you need is power on that circuit. The usual problem is the plug. This is the big relay that on earlier 850's was mounted on the top of the radiator. The 1997's had it relocated. I am sure you know all this if you are manual swapping an 850R.
#8
07-23-2018, 03:44 PM
So it's not just me!
240Dan, I am stumped as well with this very similar problem! I have a 96 850 turbo wagon with an engine from a 97 850 turbo wagon. I redid the head gasket and valve stem seals, the rest was good, replaced the timing belt, tensioner, pulley, water pump, reset the timing all on a stand before installing it into the recipient vehicle. I have replaced most of the sensors, the coil, all new wires ,plugs, cap and rotor. I got zip! New fuel pump. Reset the timing belt, just to make sure. I have two sets of ecu's one from each vehicle. When I have the recipient 96's ecu in, my OBDII cannot connect to the vehicle, when I put in the donor 97's in, it connects and reads, but shows no code errors, says there all good!? I thought it might be the theft protection circuit? The report on the OBDII says the timing for #1 is 63.5 degree's advanced. Not sure what to think about that. Anyway, I'm sorry for your problems as well but glad that I'm not alone! Hopefully some really clever guys can help us out! Unbelievable.
Last edited by spannbauer; 07-24-2018 at 04:48 PM.
#9
07-24-2018, 02:52 PM
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Hello guys thank you for all the help and suggestions. The car finally started last weekend. The only thing that I did was let the car sit without a battery, charged the battery, put back the ecu area, and installed the serpentine belt. The car is not running a 100% though getting about 15.5mpg. The air fuel gauge on my car has been all over the place. The car also chokes, feeling like it’s about to die but never stalling. I have replaced the fuel 103 relay along with swapping ecu but the problem still occurs. I have been getting a code for my maf sensor but replaced that and the code went away, but is still having this issue of lean and rich burning. The other codes where to my IAC valve. Yesterday I replaced it with the one off my dads car. The codes are still popping up and the car is still choking. I’m getting the feeling that these problems have to do with my wires rather than the sensors.
P1508 IAC valve closing signal
P1506 IAC valve opening signal
*P1102 power stage group B*
*this is the code to the maf that hasn’t come back sense the maf swap.
Thank you so much guys for your time and help.
-dan
P1508 IAC valve closing signal
P1506 IAC valve opening signal
*P1102 power stage group B*
*this is the code to the maf that hasn’t come back sense the maf swap.
Thank you so much guys for your time and help.
-dan
#10
07-24-2018, 02:58 PM
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240Dan, I am stumped as well with this very similar problem! I have a 96 850 turbo wagon with an engine from a 97 850 turbo wagon. I redid the head gasket and valve stem seals, the rest was good, replaced the timing belt, tensioner, pulley, water pump, reset the timing all on a stand before installing it into the recipient vehicle. I have replaced most of the sensors, the coil, all new wires ,plugs, cap and rotor. I got zip! New fuel pump. Reset the timing belt, just to make sure. I have two sets of ecu's one from each vehicle. When I have the recipient 96's ecu in, my OBDII cannot connect to the vehicle, when I put in the donor 97's in, it connects and reads, but shows no code errors, says there all good!? I thought it might be the theft protection circuit? The report on the OBDII says the timing for #1 is 63.5 degree's advanced. Not sure what to think about that. Anyway, I'm sorry for your problems as well but glad that I'm not alone! Hopefully some really clever guys can help us out! Unbelievable.
#11
07-24-2018, 04:55 PM
I was told that the car could start if it was a tooth off. Not sure what 65° off would be but if it’s more than a tooth that might be the problem. Also did you swap your transmission. When having this problem I was told immediately to check the cam position sensor along with the crank position sensor.
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