Hello all

I just did my first code reading from the OBD1 port. Here is what I found

A2 (Fuel system) - 2.3.1 , Long term fuel mixture too lean or too rich in part load stage ??
A3 (ABS) - 1.4.2, Stop Lamp switch faulty? (I checked my brake lights and they turn on when peddle depressed, am I missing something here??)
B1 (Climate Control)- 4.1.7, Passenger side interior temperature sensor inlet fan seized, Air con works great ??
B2 (Cruise Control)- 1.2.2, Abnormal speed signal??

I have a 95 T5r Manual in Black, I sometimes get the trac and abs light on, will clean the abs sensors today to see if that helps. The air con has been done so not sure why it is throwing a code there?

I also note that I have a little blow by out the dipstick and oil staining around the rocker cover, Is there something I should check or clean before I do the PVC system?

Thanks

Arzy








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Very often, the ECUs pick up signals that are negligibly out of spec and set code. I woulddelete the codes and see if the same codes come back shortly. If the systems are working fine, I would ignore the codes, especially the one for the climate control.

Yes, your 850 is in need of PCV system servicing.

As to the ABS, I believe the ABS module may be causing the problem, even though it is not a 96/97 unit.

I would also wait to see what Tech has to say.

BTW, thank you or the brochure, very much appreciated!


JPN

 

231 could be a vacuum leak somewhere.
The brake light switch clear and see if it comes bacl.

417 on the passenger side just below the grab handle in the roof is a funny looking plastic piece in there is the fan the code is referring to. Sometimes just a shot of compressed air is all it needs.

The cruise code might be because you checked the codes before driving.

 

FYR.


JPN

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Thanks, I had a look at the fans, cleaned the passengers side with wd40 and compressed air, no luck. You can see the fan try to move. I gave it a good blast with air and it moves freely. I am guessing that it is worn out. How would this be replaced? Is it important to the climate system?

 

If the climate control is functioning to your satisfaction, you can ignore its existence. The interior temp sensor merely provides the ECC module with an input.

I searched for the sensor and so far I only found one at eEuroparts for hefty US$75:

http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartD...spx?id=9134821

If your climate control is not functioning due to this sensor, however, you may want to replace it or remove it from the car and see if you can repair it. Otherwise, you can put it out of your mind.


JPN

 

Thanks JPN, I have just recently repaired my dip stick housing. It broke where the two pipes come together where the bracket sits. I bronzed them up and now are as good as new. My question is whilst I was repairing this tube I drove around with a make shift rubber bung in place to stop oil from leaking. If my PCV needs replacing wouldn't the pressure have blown my rubber bung out. I did some research on replacing this, doesn't seem to hard but my t5r does not billow smoke out like it suggests when the system needs overhauling.Mine is more like vapour coming out. You can undue the engine oil cap and no noticable blow by is present. Please advise how much is too much. The engine has done about 90,000-100,000kms. Also how do you take out the temp sender fan?

 

Hmmm, you got me. Well, I do not believe the crankcase pressure would increase so much that it would pop out the rubber bung, even if the PCV components need replacement. Some of the common signs are:

- Oil seeping past the filler cap.
- Oil dripping from the mating surface between the engine & the tranny.
- Oil seeping past the camshaft seals.
- Fume/vapour out of the oil dipstick.
- Reduced fuel economy.
- etc...

100,000kms is probably a good mark for PCV components replacement, if they were never done. The replacement is well within the capability of home mechanics but you need a new intake manifold gasket, as you wouldhave to remove the manifold to get to the PCV components. However, if you are not suffering the above symptoms severely, you can defer the replacement for another 20,000-30,000kms. Listen to other members as well for different opinions.

As to the interior temp sensor removal, first you need to remove the grab handle. The handle is secured with 2 10mm (12mm?) bolts and they are tight. After that, the sensor can be removed by disconnecting the electrical connection & 2 screws as per the manual. Please refer to the attachments.

Here is an excellent write-up on the PCV servicing:
http://www.lakesidedp.com/uploadpics/pcv/

And you can get the factory manual at:
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/volvo_wo...techdocs.shtml

I believe Matthew’s Volvo Site has them all in one file.

Ifthis reply does not make sense, it is because I am enjoying my glass of The MaCallan-18 Sherry Oak.


JPN

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Thanks JPN, no more flashing AC lights on start up. I pulled out the sensor fan, after pulling the A pillar trim, removing sun visor and taking part of the molding of the sunroof to get to it (Roof lining in the way). Easy enough to pull apart, cleaned thoroughly and re soldered connections, looked a bit dry. All works fine in the AC department. I am still getting codes after clearing them from A3
1.4.1, Faulty brake pedal position sensor, shorted to earth or supply.
1.4.2, Stop Lamp switch faulty

Would the 1.4.1 turn the ABS Tracs lights on? I was told that the 95 ABS module rarely plays up. So I would like to eliminate all other possibilities before I look at the module.

 

Just had a look on FCP Groton for a kit for the pcv. I am not sure which one I need to get. The problem is that my engine was replaced and I have no idea what vehicle it came out of. The sticker on the engine says B5234T 224508.

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Yes, the ABS module on 1993-1995 are not as likely to fail as the 96-97, even though mine did fail. I would try replacing those switches to see if it cures the problem.

B5234T is a turbocharged engine, the one I had, so I believe this kit would be the right one but I would call vendor to see if there are minor differences among different years models.

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...category_id/63


JPN

 

Faulty brake pedal position sensor, shorted to earth or supply, how does one removed this? This is the sensor on the Booster I think?

 

Yes the pedal sensor seems it is mounted on the booster. I could not find the procedures for removal/installation on the brake switch,but I believe it is a matter of disconnecting an electrical connector and undoing a few fasteners. See attached. Sorry I could not help you better. Also, I am not sure if replacing those switches guarantees the system restoration. I personally feel that the ABS modules were of poor design regardless of the model year. I would hear what Tech would say.


JPN

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Here is a quote from OZBrick, suggested by the original poster, arzy. The hyperlink cannot be posted therefore I am C&Ping the resource, this may help those who are having issues with their ABS, from 1993 to 1995 models:

Hi, thought You might like to add this as a hint. Looks like plenty of owners get the following ABS error codes 141 and 142 which point to
either a faulty brake light switch or pedal position switch, in my case it was the latter, some soldering joints tend to break-off and needs to be
resoldered. Here is a mail I send to a couple of guys on what I did, gives an idea of what the switch looks like and how to take it apart. If you
want to post on ozbrick or on any place else is fine.

Thanks,
Andries
95 850 T5R


> Removing the switch:
> Make sure you empty the vacuum unit by depressing the brake several times
> after you switched the engine off.
> Disconnect the wiring.
> The switch is held in place by a sort of circlip (silver piece in black plastic) which you can remove. Once
> removed, put it back the switch can actually be pushed back past the circlip
> (the switch has a locating lug and the lug locks in place with the circlip.
> (the lug has a slanted leading edge which will allow to push it past the
> clip
>
> Testing
> Try and force the connector pins while measuring the resistance, mine
> definitely had a problem .
>
>
> Opening the switch:
> Cut of the silicon at the connector end and with a blade cut out the
> silicon in between the end cap and the sides. The end cap has two locating
> lugs one at the switch connector side and the other on the opposite. You'll
> have to try and lever this end-cap out without braking the sides. Try and
> take the end cap squarely off else you might bend the "wipers".
>
> The problem:
> My PC board stayed behind and I was able to see that the connection
> (soldering joints ) were badly oxidized which indicates it's been a problem
> for a while. The PC board actually goes into the end-cap and I resoldered
> the joints. As back-up I added a thin wire(many stranded from model servo
> wire) which I soldered to the physical connector on the end cap and on the
> board on the same electrical track as the connector was soldered to. This
> was added as it should not 'fatigue' as easily as the normal soldered joint.
>
>
> I put every thing back,(makes sure the pc board goes into the slot),. but
> before pushing the end-cap add a little bead of silicon. And that's it. Add
> the o-ring on the front - end and push it back into the servo. (oh and
> reset your codes)
>
> Once everything was dried I started the car and used a piece of vacuum pipe
> to listen for any leakage from the switch. Drove the car this morning and
> no warning light nor more. PS the end cap fits pretty much like a 35 mm
> film holder, it's only got the slightly bigger lug that keeps it in place as
> described
>
>
> Cheers, by the way it took about an hour.

Courtesy of Andries, Australia.


JPN

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The last pics.


JPN

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All fixed, the pedal sensor needed repairing, broken solder joints. Great help from the post from Ozbricks

 

You are not parting with us, are you?


JPN

 

No, I would visit this forum probably 10 times daily. It would have to be the best site available for enthusiasts who take pride in their wheels. My T5r is an absolute joy to drive and has the heart of a lion. Turbo's make driving so much more enjoyable

 

Just a hint to avoid breaking the housing of the sensor. Put the sensor in a vice, hold it there securely but do not over tighten the vice or else you will break the housing. Use a pair of pliers and hold the part where the plug goes into and pull it up. This will pop the housing open and avoid breaking the housing as seen in the above pics.

 

>No, I would visit this forum probably 10 times daily.
That isincurable illness called volvoforums.com addiction and many of us are affected[X(].

Thanks for the tips.


JPN