Hey guys, haven't been around for a while because of work and other stuff. Well I was out today buying some new toys (HDTV and everything that goes with it) and the 850 R started running bad and the CEL came on. When I pulled the codes got P1310, P0301. P0303 and P0300. Also my SRS light came on the other day. Have any idea what is causing these misfires all of a sudden?

 

Have you checked the plugs?

Check on the spark plug wire the year they are made is stamped on them.

Have you checked the dist. cap.?

 

It just happened yesterday so I haven't done anything yet. I did buy a new set of plugs yesterday and will put them in this morning. It's just so strange that it happened all of a sudden. It really runs like crap right now. Feels like it's going to stall every time I stop. I got Volvo plugs. If I have to get a cap and/or plug wires, which I thought were replaced around 24K miles ago based on service records I got with the car, any brand you like? I probably can not get to the dealer today and don't think they are open.

 

I looked up your codes..............."misfire emission level from at least 1 cylinder. Misfire with three-way catalytic converter (TWC) damage from at least 1 cylinder. I would agree with TECH that wires may be fouling............maybe a coil?
Reg.

 

I changed the plugs and the only number I could find on the wires was 403. Does that mean anything? I also found a lose vacuum line on the air intake, so I replaced it too. Then my new TV was delivered and I never even drove the car.

 

I drove it last night and it was not any better. The wires look fine, so I guess I will try replacing the coil, distributor cap and rotor. I might just try the coil first because that looks kind of old and I'm pretty sure the rot and cap was changed at 120k and it has 144k now.

 

I think the Volvo is jealous of your new toy...

 

My son in-law just came over and we did a compression check on the 1st cylinder on passenger side and we are getting 0 compression. Looks like it's firing, but when we pull the wire it makes no difference in how the car is running. This does not sound good. Can someone tell me the cylinder from passenger side to driver? Anybody else had a problem like this? Man I hope I don't need rings. I just got rid of a car I really liked because the engine went in it. Also what is normal compression? The 2nd cylinder over from the pasenger side got around 80.

 

I find it hard to believe that you have zero compression. Those compression numbers don't sound correct. I think that you need to do the compression check over again.

They should be in the neighborhood of 150 psi. Did you remove all spark plugs before performing compression check? You can disable fuel pump at fuse box.
https://volvoforums.com/m_9205/tm.htm

Did you bring engine up to operating temp? If not, the numbers would be low, but they still should be consistant accross all cylinders.

I am new to Volvo's, but cylinder number goes from front of engine to back. The front would be where timing cover is located. So my guess is that that cylinder number 1 is on the passenger's side.

BTW -- Did you receive my e-mail?

 

More Info...
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php
How do I perform a compression test?

1. Start out by removing the spark plug cover and all the spark plugs (doesn't matter if you take them out all at once, or one at a time)

2. Go to the fuse panel and pull out the ECU fuse (it's the top left one I think) this will prevent the injectors from firing without actually having to mess with them.

3. Plug the tester in and go to start it and let it crank a few times (should build all the pressure by the 3rd crank)

For a T5 engine it should be between 155-185psi. if it's a little low, you can use the oil method mentioned above for testing piston rings. Add just a teaspoon of oil and do the test again. If the compression rises significantly, then your piston rings are starting to wear. All my cylinders come out to 150psi and my boost is doing just fine with my new FPR, so don't worry too much if it is low.

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=6897
all i know is the firing order 1-2-4-5-3

 

Robert thanks and yes I did get the e-mail. I almost always respong to e-mails, but I have really been busy lately and this is all I need to have car problems. I had a Honda that was my third car and just sold it so I don't have an extra car.

There is a problem with the compression tester I have. We did what the directions above say and still got nothing out of #1. You could tell there was some compression, but very little. We put tester over the other cylinders while cranking the car and it really pushed it up. When we tried this on #1 it barely pushed it. This car had a new head gasket right before I bought it. My son in-law and I will probably start pulling the head tomorrow and see whats wrong.

I'm going to need some specs on torguing everything and anything else that I might need to know. Any advise or directions will be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

Lately we have had a run of cars burning valves.

The pressure should be between 150 and 200 across the board.

If you do a compression test and get nothing and then drop oil in the cylinder and still get nothing then it is not rings. It would be in the Valves.

Let me know when you need the specs and I will post them for you.


Sorry had Company all weekend and was working on cars since THURSDAY. Between my cars and Family's just got done today.

 

There is a sequence when removing and installing bolts on head.

In the Mitsubishi world,
1) Remove two bolts above timing cover
2) Remove bolt in lower/left corner
3) Remove bolt at opposite diagonal in upper/right corner
4) Remove bolt on same side in upper/left corner
5) Remove bolt at opposite diagonal in lower/right corner
6) Outside corner bolts have been removed, proceed to next outer-most bolts.
7) Remove bolt 2nd from upper/left corner.
8) Remove bolt at opposite diagonal 2nd from lower/right corner
9) Remove bolt on same side 2nd from lower/left corner
10) Remove bolt on opposite diagonal 2nd from upper/right corner
11) Second set of outside bolts have been removed, proceed to next-outer most bolts.
12) Remove lower middle bolt
13) Remove upper middle bolt

1 I-- 4 --- 6 --- 11 --- 9 --- 3 --I
_ I
1 I-- 2 --- 8 --- 10 --- 7 --- 5 --I

Installation is reverse order.
Mitsubishi specs is 65-72 ft/lbs on cold engine
and 73-79 ft/lbs on hot engine. The two bolts above the timing cover are only 11-15 ft/lbs.

I would gently clean all threads with a tap/die. I would soak bolts in oil, first. However, since your head has been off before, you have no idea whether the monkey mechanic over-torqued -- stretching -- your head bolts. I would buy new Volvo head bolts.

It appears that there is no difference between Mitsubishi and Volvo specs from this post...

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...howtopic=13073

cylinder head:
the upper section is 12 ft lbs

lower section is

stage 1 15ft lbs
stage 2 37 ft lbs
stage 3 37 ft lbs plus another 130 degress.

----------------
It's a three torque process, from the center out each time, with the bolts having the threads dunked in oil first.

1st is 20nm (14LbFt.)
2nd is 60nm(44LbFt.)
3rd is 130degrees.

-------------------
They (Head Bolts) can be reused. If you had the Volvo manual, it lists a length the bolts can be before you have to get new ones. I've found over time re-used once is OK, the second time around you are better off getting new head bolts cause they are close to being too long.

 

Unlike Mitsubishi, it appears that Volvo Head Bolts are torque-to-yield. I would definitely buy new head bolts.

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=7020
Any bolt that ususally requires, two torques and then a degrees torque are stretch bolts, the volvo head bolts are such. If this is the first time go ahead and re-use the bolts. Some where in the Volvo engine rebuild book it says to measure the bolts and if they are below such and such they can be reused.

 

Ever since I bought this car the valves have been very noise, it's been using quite a bit of oil, there is black oily looking stuff coming out the exhaust and it occasionly blows light colored smoke when I first start it up. I really want to fix it right because it is a great looking car that I plan to keep as long as I can. Should I consider buying a new head, having a machine shop do a valve job on this head or just try to fix the valves? I know it had a head gasket done right before I bought it, and had it not looked so good, that would have been a sign to stay away from this car, but it's mine now and I need to get it fixed. My son in-law is a mechanic by trade that spent years in the Army working on Hum Bee's, worked at a Land Rover dealer for a while and now is Mr. Goodwrench. So I trust him, and I will be there to watch his every step and do what I can to help. This is more than I would probably tackle at my age, but I can watch and tell him what you guys tell me should be done to do it right.


I just called the Volvo shop that bought my 850 with the bad motor and they said they would do a leak down test before doing anythign else. How do I do that? They wouldn't give me much information on how to do it other than it uses air.

 

OK I have to run this by you guys. I just talked to the guy I bought the car off of and he runs a Volvo Repair shop and specializes in servicing and selling Volvo's. He said he would make sure all the wires, coil, plugs, cap etc etc are good and no vacuum leaks. Then he would take the car and run it at 4,000 plus rpm's for about 15 minutes. Said that he thinks the cylinder is flooded and there is Volvo bulleting that says this is what you need to do. He can not believe that it would need another head gasket this soon and doubts the valves are bad. Still want to know how to do the leak down test because I think that should tell me something.

 

A leakdown test it putting pressure in the cylinders and then making sure it will hold the pressure.

There was a bulletin a while ago but it refered to the car not starting. Then that is what you were supposed to do. The lifters would bleed down and then you would have no compression because the Valves weren't working properly.

Unless you have a REALLY REALLY good machine shop near you just have your Son-In law try to reseat the valves and replace the ones that are bad. Machine shops usually chop to much off on the Volvo heads. Also Last time I knew the Valve guides are not avalible to buy only the seals are avalible.

Let us know how things are going.

 

Hey Tech, we are having trouble getting the valve cover/upper half of cylinder head off. It says to use part #999 5402-6 to knock the cover up at all the corners. It refers to getting it up and there are dowells in the upper half into the bottom half that are wider on top than on the bottom. That part no. is according to alldata. We have called a couple auto parts stores and they don't have it. Have you ever done this, and if so any suggestions? We got all the bolts out, but can't get it to come lose.

 

Look for the tabs they are telling you to use. Then stick a screw driver or a prybar inbetween the tabs and try to pry it up CAREFULLY. They will break if you get to rough. Also try tapping on it with a rubber mallet and see if it helps. I would put a couple of screws in a little bit to try to help guide it up when it gives. Sometimes they are Very stubborn.

Also make sure you have the Cam pulleys off and the Dist. cap rotor and Cam sensor. That might also be holding it if you haven't removed them yet. You might be able to leave the pulleys on but you will HAVE to remove the dist. cap and Cam sensor.

 

OK we got it off. Now we are looking at what to do next. If we take the cams out will we be able to remove the valve cylinders? Then we have no idea what to after that. I have to quit soon though the Steelers are coming on in 25 minutes.