HI, I am AJ from Vermont, First I would like to thank JPN and others for helping me fix my oil leak it went very well about 30 minutes job replacing gasket and o ring on the turbo oil return. Now I would like to find a procedure to replace the Oil Inlet Line,I tried the epoxy but it is still leaking. I know it is just few drops but I just had my driveway redone with blacktop and oil is bad for blacktop.I have a 850T 1995 with 155000 miles, Just repalced the t-belt. and just ordered bunch of stuff from FCP Groton. (letting them know that I was refer by this site. ) Mann filters,dipstick o rings,cap seal, upper radiator hose. ($7.50) what a deal. tail pipe, oil drain copper washer.and volvo turbo spark plugs.
Thanks

 

Hi AJ,

OK, I'll give you an instruction as to how to replace the oil cooler line hose.

REQUIRED PARTS:
1. New hose (genuine Volvo)
2. New seal ring & O-ring at the oil cooler connection.
3. New O-rings at the oil-thermostat connections.
4. New seal ring for the oil-thermostat housing.
5. A tube of Permatex Most Oil Resistant Liquid Gasket
6. New hold plate & Torx screw (I would buy 2 screws just in case) for it (available only at the dealer).

PROCEDURE:
1. Loosen lug bolts on the passenger-side wheel.

2. Lift the front end and support it by two robust jackstands; be sure the car is secure. Place jackstands on the sub-frame andplace something between the jackstands & subframe; a piece of wood will do. Remove the wheel.

3. Remove splash shield, which is held in place by 2 10mm or 12mm bolts on each side.
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/oilcooler.php

4. Drain engine oil completely.

5. Disconnect hose-to-oil cooler connection (a pair of snap ring pliers is helpful in removing the metal clamp). You only need to disconnect the hose end that is leaking.

6. Remove 10mm bolt that is holding both inlet & outlet hose with a bracket that is pre-attached to the hose. This bolt is difficult to see, and you may have to "feel it" to remove it (the bolt holds the hoses onto the front of the engine block). I used a 1/4" drive ratchet, a universal joint & a short 10mm socket. Or, if you have a very long extension (2'), you can actually get a clear shot of the bolt from front end, but you have to see through many hoses & gadgets. Without a photo image, I cannot give you exactly where to see it.

7. Remove the oil-thermostat housing that are held in place with two Torx screws. Expect about a quart of oil to drain from there.

8. Here is the challenge. Remove the Torx screw that is holding the two hose ends with a half-moon shaped metal plate. MAKE SURE to use theperfect fit Torx bit or the screw will strip. You may have to do this before step-7, which is tough because there is not enough clearance.

9. Install new seal ring & O-ring onto the new hose and install the hose to the oil cooler, put the clamp back on and hold the clamp with screw-to-tighten metal clamp that you can find at a local hardware store.

10. Another challenge. Clean the oil-thermostat housing & hose ends with paper towel. Coat the new O-rings with the liquid gasket and place them in the oil-thermostat side. You may wonder, why you wouldn't put them on the hose ends. Well, I put them on the hose ends and they leaked.

11. Insert the hose ends into the oil-thermostat, making sure to coat the hose-end sleeves with liquid gasket. This ensures leak-free installation, but avoid putting them where they can enter inside the hose.

12. Put the metal plate & the Torx screw. Tighten hard, but allow some movement of the hose ends, as they may have to turn a bit when you install the oil-thermostat housing.

13. Coat the oil-thermostat-to-engine block mating surface with liquid gasket, as well as the new seal ring. This ensures leak-free installation. Tightenthe housing holdingTorx screws, just regular tight.

14. Another challenge. If you can wedge Torx bit between the hose plate-holding Torx screw & the subframe, give a final torque. Regular tight should do. There may not be enough space, and in which case remove the oil-thermostat housing () and while you have clean access to the Torx screw, tighten hard (but no so hard that you strip it).

15. When you feel you've installed them successfully, install the 10mm bolt that holds the two hoses onto the engine block. Be sure the threads are clean, as I ended up forcing the bolt due to damaged threads.

16. Leave the car overnight, do not put the oil in just yet.

17. After you've waited at least overnight, then pour the oil back in and start the engine. Ensure oil is not leaking, especially around the oil-thermostat connections.

18.The new hose may look wet around the seams with oil, but they should not leak.

I wish you the best of luck, and whenever you're unsure about a procedure, STOP what you're doing and let us know your concerns. Take time, do not rush.


JPN

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Thanks JPN , I will let you know the result and the headache...

AJ

 

Hi AJ,

JPN's advice is right on track. I just want to say that I did this repair on ou 179K 95 850 Turbo about 7 months ago. The best advice I can give you is 1. It can be done and it is a messy but not too hard job. 2. Repeating what JPN said...take your time!

Good luck,

Glenn

 

One correction,

If you can get to the Torx screw that is holding the metal plate, you will not have to remove the oil-thermostat housing or the other hose end. Remove the Torx screw, holding plate, and the hose end.

The only tool I know of, which may allow you to get full contact with the Torx screw without removing the oil-thermostat is Lisle's Torx bit set, which fits directly onto a ratchet handle. If 1/4", great, but even if 3/8", try to see if you can access the screw.

Clean components as you go about, especially around the crank pulley and bottom of the engine with a can of brake cleaner or engine degreaser.

Let us know how it goes.


JPN

 

HI, Just a question, I already ordered the Volvo inlet line from FCP Groton , But if Volvo inlet line are prone to leak why buying a Volvo originalreplacement part? why replacing a known defective product with the original?
Thanks AJ

 

Hi AJ,

The reason why I went with Volvo hose is because no one else had it at the time when I needed mine. Also, the new hose just starts to look wet around the seams, but will not leak. After I replaced everything, there was not a drop of oil on the ground, and the wetness of the hose was gone after a while. But it may leak after another 5 years or so, and by that time there may be an improved aftermarket hose available. Or, if there is an aftermarket hose available and if you believe they are better, simply return the Volvo hose to FCP Groton for refund (make sure not to get it out of the original package, if you want to return it).

I hope I answered your question.


JPN

 

HI, I am done with the repair, You were right it's a pain at the beginning, The best advice you gave me was "Do not rush, take your time"if I can had one "do not get discourage"...First I drained the oil and removed the oil filter it was inthe way. Removing the clamp bolt was the most time cunsumingjob until I figured out the way, 2' extension was too stiff to get to the bolt, so I used 3/8" 2' foot extension , 3/8" to 1/4" reducer, 1/4"- 3" extension , 1/4"- 2" extension, and 10mm socket (in that order). the 3 extension together moved just enough to get to the bolt. everything else was just easy going. Iremoved the oil thermostat, I spent some timetrying get to the torx without removingthe thermostat, but I have had enough with the clamp bolt..., Other than that everything was cool. I didn't spend the time removing the old hose in one piece.I just cut it. I will let you know tomorow if it leaks or not.

Thanks Again.

 

Hi AJ,

As long as you cleaned the parts, coated the seals & mating surfaces with Permatex liquid gasket, and snug-tightened everything, there should be no leak.

Glad to hear you had a clear shot of that PITA 10mm bolt. I believe you've had enough looking at the bottom of the engine.

I wish you the best of luck with leak free-operation. Pour the oil in, run the engine and observe for leak. If there's no leak for 5 minutes of running the engine, I believe the job was successful. Also, re-check after a week, then after a month. If there is no leak after a month, no worry for another 5-6 years.

Will wait to hear the results.


JPN

 

HI, 30 hours later no leaks it's a success. The hose doesn't evenlook wet around the seams.


Thanks
AJ

 

Yeehaaaa!

Enjoy your re-paved clean driveway!

JPN

 

HI, The only thing I'mconcerned about is the oil pressure; it takes almost 2 minutes before it reaches the middle line on the gage. it does that everytime I start the car if it sits for 1 hour or so. I can't remember how it was before. Any comments? Can it be air in the oil system?

Thanks
AJ

 

Hi AJ

Do you mean you have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge installed? There is no oil pressure gauge on the stock instrument, only the low oil pressure warning lamp (if you see this while the engine is running, shut it down immediately).

Double check the oil quantity. If low, add and if overfilled, drain some.

Will wait for your reply with more details on the situation.


JPN

 

HI, I tought it was the oil pressure gage but it is the temperature,
Sorry I am glad you answered, I went in my book....
when I sawit was thetemperature gauge ,I felt really bad... Now I look stupid......That's why it took few minutes to reach the middle..... Man...AJ....AJ[sm=wakeup.gif][sm=wakeup.gif]
Thanks
AJ

 

I installed an aftermarket oil pressure gauge in our 95 Turbo. It runs about 45-50 Psi at 2000 RPM when cold, and then about 20-25Psiwhen warm. Idle reads about 20 Psi when warm. I like to know what the oil is doing, so I recommend installing one if you get the opportunity

GLenn

 

Don't feel bad, we all do misunderstand that kind of stuff once a while, even the best technician in the world does that too.

I'm really glad the oil leak has ceased. Check after a week, then after a month and if no leak appears, you have become an expert in helping people with the same problem.

Keep up the good job!


JPN

 

Time to wake up a thread!

I've gotten the Torx bolt off and the hoses are rusted tight inside the thermostat housing. Anyone see a reason why I should NOT hit it with a torch? Really don't want to buy a new thermostat if I don't have to . . .

Plus, I don't really want to unbolt the t-stat if I don't have to. Is it just to get access to the Torx bolt?

 

Never mind - I had to remove the 12 mm bolt that was holding the two lines into place before the lines came out easily.

 

could somebody tell me at which side of the thermostat does the inlet , outlet line line go ?

 

Here are my instructions for the S70 which is likely the same. Mine did not go to the thermostat if you are talking about the oil cooler.
Oil Cooler Line replacement instructions on a 1998 Volvo S70 GLT