oil in spark plug hole
#1
oil in spark plug hole
hey guys l need your help with something.l replaced my lifters a few weeks ago and it seems like the spark plug seals came off a little bit and its letting oil into the spark plug hole.a friend of mine recommended a spark plug extension.what is that? l want to know what guys on here think before l get it.l might want to use that till l get the chance to open up the valve cover.will it stop the oil from getting into the plugs?
also can l remove the valve cover without removing the timing belt just to replace the spark plug seal?
any suggestions will be appreciated.thank you
also can l remove the valve cover without removing the timing belt just to replace the spark plug seal?
any suggestions will be appreciated.thank you
#2
Man, if you pull that cam cover with the timing belt parts still attached it will likely cause the cams to snap, lift from the back, etc. Don't try skimming on that. You'll have to pull the belt, remove the cam cover, do all that clean up, reseal the cover and torque it all down all over again. Yes it will likely take 4 hours but that's a bad/sad mistake.
Don't get any plug extensions, just do the job ASAP.
Don't get any plug extensions, just do the job ASAP.
#3
thank you brother for the reply.l will do that asap but my landlord is being a pain and complaining about me working on my car where l park it. l need the car to drop off my sister at work and all and find time and go over my friends house and get it done soon.will leaving it to leak cause a big problem if left for about a day or two?thanks
#4
This is a spark plug extension and I have no clue why anyone would recommend it for your situation. They are normally used to get the plug out of the combustion chamber to keep them from being fouled out if you have a ring or valve problem where the engine is burning too much oil.
When your
When your
Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 08-22-2012 at 07:00 PM.
#5
#6
If the oil is leaking from the seal on the valve cover it's going to continue to leak into the spark plug well. Only difference is the plug would be sitting up a bit higher in the hole and it's just one more thing that might seize, strip or cause a driveability problem as the plug in now out of the combustion chamber. Not a good idea
You want to make sure you use a little anti-seize on the spark plug threads so you don't have any issue with one seizing into the head
You want to make sure you use a little anti-seize on the spark plug threads so you don't have any issue with one seizing into the head
#7
If the oil is leaking from the seal on the valve cover it's going to continue to leak into the spark plug well. Only difference is the plug would be sitting up a bit higher in the hole and it's just one more thing that might seize, strip or cause a driveability problem as the plug in now out of the combustion chamber. Not a good idea
You want to make sure you use a little anti-seize on the spark plug threads so you don't have any issue with one seizing into the head
You want to make sure you use a little anti-seize on the spark plug threads so you don't have any issue with one seizing into the head
#8
anti-seize is something that you can use on anything. Any time you are assembling something where the fastener is steel and you're screwing it into a similar metal or especially when it's a dis-similar type of metal (steel spark plug, aluminum head) it's a good idea to use it.
You don't need to use it and it's nothing to do with the oil leak. It's just a preventative measure in a normal installation.
"A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing and to assure easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°Cto 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant – ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E. Aerosol - Level 3*"
You should be OK running with the leak for a couple days as long as that leak doesn't fill up the hole and start coming out the top of the cover. In that case you're leaking too much to risk driving it.
You don't need to use it and it's nothing to do with the oil leak. It's just a preventative measure in a normal installation.
"A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing and to assure easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°Cto 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant – ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E. Aerosol - Level 3*"
You should be OK running with the leak for a couple days as long as that leak doesn't fill up the hole and start coming out the top of the cover. In that case you're leaking too much to risk driving it.
#9
anti-seize is something that you can use on anything. Any time you are assembling something where the fastener is steel and you're screwing it into a similar metal or especially when it's a dis-similar type of metal (steel spark plug, aluminum head) it's a good idea to use it.
You don't need to use it and it's nothing to do with the oil leak. It's just a preventative measure in a normal installation.
"A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing and to assure easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°Cto 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant – ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E. Aerosol - Level 3*"
You should be OK running with the leak for a couple days as long as that leak doesn't fill up the hole and start coming out the top of the cover. In that case you're leaking too much to risk driving it.
You don't need to use it and it's nothing to do with the oil leak. It's just a preventative measure in a normal installation.
"A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing and to assure easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°Cto 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant – ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E. Aerosol - Level 3*"
You should be OK running with the leak for a couple days as long as that leak doesn't fill up the hole and start coming out the top of the cover. In that case you're leaking too much to risk driving it.
#10
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