Not sure if you can see the oil in all the divets etc, as I took the photo with my camera phone, but I'm assuming that my PCV has to be clogged looking like this correct? I replaced the cap, and dont see any traces of leaks lately, but removed the cover to check the hose connection underneath, and this is what I found. Lots of oil. The cap wouldnt leak oil like this unless there was a clog in the PCV correct?

The full kit is on the way tomorrow or Thursday from Groton regardless.

 

When you replaced your cap did you clean everything under the cover?
[align=left] [/align]

 

Nope.
Replaced the cap, and dried all around the outside of the cap where I knew it was leaking from to watch to see if it continued (it hasnt). I did this 2 or 3 days ago, but I dont like the fact that it stopped the leaking completely...my thoughts are that now that the gasket is replaced on the cap (and sealing it), other seals/gaskets will start leaking soon as a result. Thats why I ordered the PCV kit today. I'm sure what was/is under the wire cover now is from the cap. My question is, would anything other than the PCV system cause the cap to leak? I would think that'd be the only cause.

PS - Anyone who has gotten the full tubing kit from Groton, are the clamps normal hose clamps, or do you need the crimping pliers?

 

Samething happened to me, we replaced a bunch of things, then broke down and had it look at by dealer, they wanted $1500. But i ordered whole kit from Groton, hopefully get it on Thursday and start next week. I think im going to end up replacing a bucnh more seals, because im leaking like crazy.

Good luck, let me know how it turns out.
Matt

 

Well then how do you know that this is a fresh leak? You could have shot that oil out awhile ago.

Put your hand over the oil cap opening with the engine running, do you feel pressure?

 

Message deleted.

 

As I said, I dont think this IS a fresh leak. I think its from the cap before I replaced it.

 

whats that mean?

 

FYI - Since I've noticed the drop in MPG after replacing the oil filler cap and gasket, I've loosened the cap enough to hopefully allow it to vent as much as possible while driving till the parts arrive and I do the job Friday.I don't like driving it noticing such a difference in mileage, and knowing that the oil is going to start leaking elsewhere soon. I'd rather have it spill back out the cap until I do the job Friday.

 

Does anyone have a photo of the clamps that come with the Groton kit? I'm told they're not standard screw down hose clamps, and that they are genuine Volvo clamps that require crimping. Could someone post a photo so I can see if I need to get a pair of pliers or something before the parts arrive so I'm ready to do the job when they arrive? Please?

 

Unfortunately no, but you can use a set of cutters to crimp them in a pinch. I just ordered a vent kit, plugs, cap, wires, rotor,o2 sensorand other odds and ends from Groton last night. I just hit 150k and figure a good tune up is in order. - AB

 

although I could probably make due with a set of dykes, I think Im going to just pick up some stainless hose clamps and use those. Although Im sure the crimping clamps are ok, I trust the standard clampsmore, and will only have to tighten them with a nut driver, or screw driver as opposed to manuevering pliers/dykes etc.

It looks like that other user who did the writeup did the same.

 

What kind of time frame from start to finish do you think? How long will it take?

Father inlaw said might be clog in oil pump also, im having smoke coming out of exhaust, it got way worse when i got new oil cap and tightened it down. I guesse i should have eased up and let the oil flow out of oil cap. Now im sure i will be replacing all the damn orings again.

Matt

 

Considering I've never done it, and I'm extremely particular, I'm planning on taking a half day tomorrow, and starting around noon. I've researched the job several times and think I have a pretty good idea of what needs to be done...but I wouldnt think it'd take me less than 2 hours since its the first time. Maybe more. Not sure. I've learned a lot of the jobs that seem straight forward, can be some of the lengthiest at times.

I'll report back.

 

FYI -

Just a heads up to you all. The current drawing for my vehicle (1996 Non Turbo Volvo 850) on the FCP site is extremely misleading. It's actually incorrect in one of its hoses.
The hose titled (#7), is inaccurate in its dotted leads, as well as its direction and clamp.

Below you see their drawing:


They show that the far right is where the flame trap is. This is correct. But moving from right to left, the first port you meet (mid-hose) points upward implying it connects upward. The actual connection that this port makes, is on the forward nipple of the Oil Trap (#1). They are mistaken with its upward direction, and even more incorrect with the dotted line and hose clamp that leads from the far left port of (#7) to this forward nipple on the Oil Trap (#1). The far left end of (#7) is a small hose that actually connects to a small nipple on the intake manifold itself (without use of a hose clamp). This nipple can be seen on the left side of the intake when facing the engine from the front of the vehicle. Hopefully this edited drawing below will explain better than my words. Regardless - It made my ordering and research of the job VERY confusing, and I thought I'd received the wrong parts when it was extremely obvious that the small vacuum line on the far left of (#7) would never fit over the FWD port on the Oil Trap. I'm sending them this photo as well and hopefully they'll update it in the future. Other than that, the parts arrived quickly, Im just waiting for them to send the flame trap that was forgotten (they kindly are rushing it to me overnight).

Actual:

 

Job Complete.

Several issues after all was put back together....all of which were due to my own negligence. Most notably, TPS connector not seated completely, injector connector not seated completely, and one of the spark plug wires not completely seated. All of which make for a several symptoms that leave you scratching your head.

Regardless, its done. If anyone has questions, I'll be happy to answer them. Also - I noticed FCP GROTON fixed their drawing after I sent them the edit.

 

How does the car feel now? Notice a difference? Did you see any clogs?

We will be doing this tomrow, by the way is your car turbo or no? Mine is turbos so i hope there isnt any little surprizes in store...

Let me know
Matt

 

The car runs fine. It ran well before, although there were the signs excess pressure and leaking through the fill cap.
There was lots of buildup within the PCV system, although it didnt appear to be completely clogged. Hopefully this took care of the venting issue. Time will tell.

Noticed the oil was pretty nasty, so I'm going to do oil, plugs, and wires today. Not sure if I will have time for the fuel filter today, but if not, soon.
.

 

Finished, smoke is all gone, thankgoodness it wasnt turbo. A few areas were orings might need to be replaced, but over all, it was really gunked up, took about 5 hours. seems like a lot better.

Matt

 

Problem could reside with the flame trap as a result from crankcase pressure buildup. I replaced old one and now have no more problem with oil all over the place. Part is cheap, along with the holder about $5.00 from dealer. Probably the least expensive items you'll ever get from a Volvo dealer.