Hi I'm looking for some direction on the procedure to clean the PCV system of the car I have tried searching for some instructions but have had no luck. I have read that there is no PCV valve as such is on a lot of other vehicles but a combination of boxes hoses and such. I have also read that this system is definatly a maintenance issue and frequently goes over looked by people who are not that familir that this type of service is neccessary..

Does any one have any pointers on what to look for and perhaps a link with some pictures describing this procedure at all, it would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
-Mike

 

hi if you sign up to the volvo club forums there is a great post with pics telling you how to do this,just search for the posts by a member called jod t5

 

http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850oiltrapturbo.htm

Make sure that intake manifold gasket is included in kit. You just need to loosen the intake manifold, but gasket will need to be replaced. You will need swivel and extension to reach one of the intake manifold bolts.

 

In addition to what Robert noted, it's also a good time to remove the throttle body for cleaning. So snag one of those gaskets, too.

 

Ok I found the link for the job here http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/forum/sh...&highlight=pcv

Is the hose (pt# p471644) usually broken like the one in the description of the job, and the oil separator is that part re uesable, i mean can it be cleaned using parts or brake cleaner or something or do ya allways have to replace it.

this looks like a litle time consuming job for a first timer but thanks guys for the info atleast I have a little inside to what to expect.

I was told today by a local indapendant volvo garage that they have a tester to check the system to see if it is operational, is this test worth it, does it work every time and really tell if there's a problem with the system?

I would assume that my car needs this service preformed i doubt that it has been done in quite some time and if this is a 25000mile interval job it's well overdue, another reason i think it may be neccessary is because I havea bad oil leak which could have been aided by a faulty breather system.

Thanks
mike

 

I wouldn't waste time trying to clean out the oil trap. Blowby is probably caked in there pretty well. Since you can't see in there, you won't be able to tell if it's 100% clean.

The easy test that I know of is to pull the dipstick with the motor idling. If you see smoke coming out of the dipstick tube, time to replace the PCV system.

 

and that I do! I have noticed that already. looks like more parts a'commin!! haha

is it common for this hose to be bad? would the gaskets and oil trap be the minimum order f parts when doing this job or is the hose usually pooched too?

 

The hoses are usually clogged as well.
But the one hose that goes from the end of the intake by the power steering pump over to the intake you can bypass and run a different way.
Cap the end of the intake. Then run a hose from the Vaccum tree on the intake to the induction hose.

 

haha at first I had no Idea what you were referring to bun now that I have the intake off i see it exactly thanks for the tip.......

one dumb thinh tho I broke off the spare capped port on the vacuum tree doh! i'll see what the wrecker wants for one or i may just Tee in I got to replacce the hose that runs the boost gauge anyway becfause it's so brittle and cracked and repaired in a few spots.

 

They should be pretty cheap.

But you need to fix it somehow. That will create to much of a vaccum leak if you don't.

 

I need to do this also!!major seriously bad!!!!

poster......gimme some tips..

I am a cheapo so I want to use the easiest and minimal parts to do the job..

You have to pull the intake off to do the pvc??
crazy mang

 

Yes, the intake manifold has to come off.

You should just get the kit from FCP Groton. It has everything. The clamps do require a special crimper, though. You can substitute with regular clamps.

The hoses should be replaced. Don't skimp. Mine were brittle.

 

Yes the clamps are different, even though I have the proper tool(I used to use Oeitker clamps frequently in a previous job I had) I used 1/4" stainless screw/gear clamps and cut them to size, worked great and easy to use

Yes the hoses are brittle and Me being the cheapo that I am I experimented with using a semo ridgit flexible hose that is ok in higher temperstures, I'll have to see if it will work, I didn't search if anyone done that before but i didn't care i went for it anyway if it don't work i'l say no big deal and i'll get the proper one

I also reused my oil trap, what I sid was sit in in a bucket of vasasol and cleaned it out.... it seams to be clear and clean inside air moves freely through it, so another experiement should be on the testing block.

Over all theis job is pretty easy and the hardest part i found was removing the 2 12mm bolts from the bottom of the intake, they're hard to get at and i don't have toothpick arms so that don't help me much haha.

I would look at replacing the dip stick o-ring while you have the dipstick tube out aswell, that is of course iot's crapy which mine was

the job cost me less that $15 that's including hose I used, O Ring, screw clamps, intake gasket and throttle body gasket, I didn' find that that bad, infact the next time i order something from fcpgroton i'm gonna order another set of gaskets and a couple O rings , just to have on hand just incase i gotta rip it apart again to check it out....

Mike

 

this is my confused face... I have a turbo....

but ive read that PVC system doesnt exist on turbo models.... Yay or Nay?

 

Yes the PVC is on the turbo.And not on the NON Turbo.

The whole oil breather system on the front of the motor "oil trap" vacume /pvc /breather set up is a major common high milage problem and creates blow by from it being clogged also.

I think I have diagrams and DYI write up..
I still never did this and posted like 16 months ago?
Car gets 40 miles a day on it still and its at about270k running like a top still!! POwer Galore too.

 

Both Turbo & N/A have PCV systems.

Turbo:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850oiltrapturbo.htm

N/A (Non-turbo):
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850oiltrap.htm

Good luck,


JPN

 

yank the throttle body, and intake, and you will see the oiltrap and a couple thicker black hoses replace those as well *** all the yellow vacume lines


don't forget about the egr valve

 

I just test drove a 93 850 GLS I'm considering buying. Owner wants $1350.00; car has 164K miles. Body is in good shape. Timing belt was replaced at 100K. I noticed some light lifter clatter after cold start, is that normal? Can it be quieted?

Do these models last as long as the 240 and 740 series?

Main concern, was during warmup and highway speeds up to 70 mph (at which it was smooth and quiet), but then during idlle, I was smelling what seemed like blowby in the cabin. I noticed the odor on my clothing later. This isn't a turbo model. Can this be corrected by cleaning the PVC. Posts on this seem to be for turbos. Is it the same for nonturbo?

Is there a solvent that can safely be used to clean out the crankcase w/o taking it apart?

Can nonturbo engine use regular gas?

Thanks!

 

The clatter might be normal depending on how long it sat for.

They can last as long as teh 240/740's.

I would inspect and replace parts. The hoses are also known to break for the vent system.

 

I'm having the same problem. I found this after googling. Try this


1996-1997 Volvo 850 Turbo PCV Breather System Kit