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Rear control arm. Delta link tool anyone???
hi. My volvo 850R has blown out rear trailing arm end links. Im looking to know if anyone around southern NH has tool number 9995497. Just to borrow... Please help a volvo DIY guy keep his car on the road another 300,000 miles. Thanks. |
And some here say that the newer Volvos cant go the distance.....
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They cant. Mine is a 96 |
No, I was referring to those that think the 240/740/940 were the end of the Volvo line. I guess that I count yours as a modern Volvo compared to those relics.
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Ohhh gotcha. Im creeping up on 350,000 Odometer broken. Just did full headjob exhaust valves head gasket and everything else in there. Runs great. Car is from Maine. Seen alot of winter ****.. just need to get those endlinks replaced.... |
I would be willing to bet that the compression is within 95% of OEM even after that mileage. Very little wear ever on the piston rings and walls if you do proper oil changes, which I'm sure that you have.
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I had one blown valve and one almost burnt. Now all 10 new. Bottom end and tranny all original..👍 |
regarding the delta links, they slide into the transverse arms but have a plastic sleeve that makes them tough to pull back out even when you have the bolts removed. You have three options - 1) buy the puller (IPD sells one for about $225) 2) use a drill to poke holes in the plastic sleeve to allow you to pull it out with a make-shift puller 3) heat with a torch enough to melt the plastic. I'd also recommend for northern cars to inspect the bolt that goes into the chassis as they can rust and you may need to weld solid again.
Some reading: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...?p=31294#31294 |
I was going to make a Home made puller if I can’t find one. From what it looks like in the photos is a hollow peg it comes out of the chassis and then bushing slides over it in the bolt goes up through it? How would i know it’d rusted out up inside |
Its really a very simple design. From what I recall, there are only two bolts - one to the chassis and the second which goes through the transverse arm. the transverse arm is just a hollow slot for the bushing to slide into and there's a plastic sleeve that goes between the bushing and the arm to ensure a tight fit. So first you need to remove those two bolts, let the arm hang down then the work begins for separating the two. I don't think the issue is whether its rusted up inside (since there's plastic between the arm and the bushing) - its just a compression fit that requires a puller to separate. That's why you can try drilling holes in the plastic to make room or using heat to melt the plastic to loosen the fit.
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Im going to try cut up a coil sprIng compressor and make a puller and then heat and drill. Thanks man |
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https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/volvofo...f408be494.jpeg Damn... I found this photo online. I’m gonna try to re-create it. |
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Hmm that one is much cheaper than IPD. Maybe i will. Thanks |
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