Okay, I cleaned everything up (the oil separator, and the entire engine). I put everything back together, and I still have a leak (see photos). Question; are there any moving parts in the oil separator to get broken? Also, I drove the car, and then I took off the flame trap, and some oil came out... enough to get most of my fingers oily. Is this normal? One more thing, when I was putting everything back together, I broke the hose going from the oil separator to the flame trap. It was right in the middle, and it was broke in three pieces. I didn't think that I could get one soon enough... it's a long story, but I took a piece of rubber hose, and two clamps, and repaired the hose. There are no leaks, but my question is; will the be good for now? I mean, until I get everything else resolved, I would like to leave it like this, and save myself taking it apart again, until I get the major problems fixed. Now, for the leak, where would you say that the leak is comming from? Right there looks like it is where the trans meets the engine. Can I try and torque up the bolts a little to see if that will stop the leak? What next? FYI; As far as the pictures, look at the bright light in the middle of the picture. that's where the leak is.

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The reason I ask about the oil separator, and the flame trap is that when I finished cleaning everything up, and I changed the oil to synthetic, it seemed that the oil drip had started to go down. Now it's back to normal meaning that the oil drip has gotten bigger, and I was wondering if the excess oil in the separator, and flame trap would be causing the excess air pressure to open the leak more? And, about the moving parts in the oil separator, when I cleaned it, it was already empty, but had a very small trace of oil deposits in it. I cleaned it, but I didn't check to see if there were any moving parts in it that could possibly brake, or stick. What next?

 

No there is no miving parts in the oil separator.
There might have been some traces of oil left in one of the lines or something like that for it to end up at the flame trap.
The hose patch will work for now till you get the other fixed.

Looks like it might be the rear main seal I marked on of your pictures with a blue arrow.Where I have it should be a little knotch where I will bet the oil is dripping from.If so then it is the rear main seal.

The rear main once they start leaking they only get worse.It might just have been the fact that you put new oil in that is is leaking more.Not the older thicker oil.


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So what do I do from here on in. What kind of equipment am I going to need to fix this (e.g. hoist, special tools, etc.)? And, how much work will it be for one person, and how long will it take to do it in my garage with the car on jack stands?

 

Also, the oil was very clean, and there was no residue. I suspect that the oil is being pumped up there somehow, or is that just the way the flametrap is supposed to work?

 

You will need either an engine hoist or something to support the engine while you remove the trans.
You will have to remove the engine subframe.

It kind of works that way but not supposed to pump oil into the throttle body.It pumps the fumes up there to reburn them.There might be a slight clogg somewhere else.Vaccum line or something like that.

 

Where should I start checking the vacuum hose cloggs. I did clean out all of the vacuum hoses that were right there on the throttle body, on top of it going to what looks like the fuel valve, the EGR valve, and the one going to the flame trap itself. So, what other vacuum hoses should I check?

And, as far as the hoist, can I use a jack on the floor to jack up the engine to do the same thing as a hoist? And, what subframe are you referring to? And, is this the first step?

 

Also, before I start to do all of this work, should I make sure that the engine is in good shape... like the compression is good, and the knocking is just from the fuel injectors. What should I check, and how. I am kindof assuming that the person who previously owned this car did not take very good care of it, and with this thought, I am assuming that at some time in the life of the car, that maybe the engine was deprived of oil, and may have some damage to it. Now this is an assumption, and I am no mechanic. However, I am concerned with the car, and I don't want to do all of this work knowing that the engine/car will not last. So, with that said, how can I check the engine as adequately as possible, without going overboard with time, and money?

 

Also, would there be another name for the rear main seal? I've been trying to look it up to purchase it, but I can't seem to find that name.

 

Make sure any and all vaccum lines are clear and not clogged.
You could do a compresion test if you like on all the cylinders.
The subframe is the metal square like thing that the lower control arms are bolted to.
That will need to be removed and when it is removed there will be nothing holding the engine.
Thats why a hoist is needed and a floor jack will not work.

Another name for the rear mainseal would be rear crank seal or something like that.

Hopefully I didn't miss anything.

 

Now, do I plug the compression tester into each individual cylinder, start the car, and see what the psi pressure is, or is there another procedure? I do appreciate all of your help Mr. Tech, and if you're getting tired of me taking up too much space, than I'll give it a rest. I've given this car a lot of TLC, but maybe I need to give it a rest anyway... for my own sake?

 

To do the compresson test properly you need to remove all the spark plugs.Then unplug the fuse or the plug for the fuel pump.Then hold the throttle wide open.Then crank it over trying to watch the guage let it get to full pressure and stop raising.As it is cranking over try to count the number of times it cranks.You will need to crank it over the same number of times per cylinder.Write down your readings.They need to be within 15-20% within each other.It should be around 160-180.

If you have anymore quiestions feel free to ask.
It might take me a day or so to respond.Time is short at this point due to wife in the hospital.Please bear with me.
Thanks.

 

Tell me, if my compression was bad, would there be any teltale signs, e.g. smoke comming from the tailpipe. etc?

 

Most of the time a tell tale sign is a missfire in one of the cylinders.Blue smoke means burning oil.Tons of white smoke means bad headgasket.Black smoke means running rich.Some times when the car is started cold it might let out some white smoke from condensation then disapate when the car is warmed up and it is normal.

 

So, when it lets out some white smoke, and then when it warms up it clears up is normal? Also, how often do you need to replace the oil separator/vent box, provided you keep the flame trap clean?

 

Yes that would be condensation burning off that is normal.
The vent box won't have to be replaced for a long time as long as you keep the flame trap clean.

 

I have a 1995 850 GLT. I was wondering, if I need to start changing the rear main seal, should I take the seal out by using the procedure to take out the transmission in the Haynes Repair Manual 1993 thru 1997 All Models #97050 in the Automatic Transaxle section - Removal and Installation - on pages 7B-4 to 7B-6 with illustrations 8.38?

 

I don't have a book but yes follow those instructions.
After you get the trans out then remove the flywheel.The seal is under the flywheel.

 

Is the seal on the shaft of the flywheel? Can you tell me what the seal looks like, meaning what shape is it? This will give me a good idea as to where it is, and what i'm looking for when I get there, and also, when I pick up the part.

 

It is a round seal.When you remove the flywheel it is behind there.Between the block and the crankshaft.
It should be grey and have a felt strip on the outside.