replaced timing belt, now car wont start
 

Did you try to remove the belt again, and make sure all 3 timing marks are on point?

Put the engine at TDC with all your marks lined up, crank and cams. Then pull the distributor cap and look where the rotor is pointing. It should be pointing to the #1 plug or right at your chest if you are standing in front of the car. It should not be pointing to the bottom towards the rack & pinion.

Do not attempt to turn the crank over without the belt. That 1/4 turn is the pistons hitting valves. Thats a no-no

I have reset the belt a number of times. My biggest problem is I could not find the mark on the crank shaft so I rotated every thing and re-aligned the cam shaft marks, then marked where the crank was sitting. I know that was a dumb thing to do but I was desperate. Since I though maybe I was 180 out, I did remove the belt and tried to rotate the crank, it was like you said, I only got a quarter turn til it stopped. Atleast I know I'm not 180 out and so far there seams to be no damage. I will reset at tdc and check the rotor like you suggested. Do you know what the timing mark on the crank looks like and where it might be located? Thank you guys for responding btw.

Its a very small mark, looks almost like some poked a notch with a small paper clip...

Here is a post that might help--->http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=9&t=27078

That mark is hard to see but here is a photo as well.
http://img.happywrenching.com/volvo/...ark-2-zoom.jpg

If the motor was cranking, it probably was lined up fine. Maybe there was some other problem preventing the start. If you turned the key and it was not lined up properly you likely would have heard a horriable sound of valves hitting the pistons, etc.

Its tough to see, here is another picture

Attachment 18874

Attachment 18875

When you say you turned it a quarter turn and it stopped where you turning it by hand?

I'm not sure on a Volvo, knock knock, but I know on a lot of interference engines you only hear a little noise (loud and painful) as the piston hammers the valve and then locks up as the piston can't get past the bent valve (cracked head).

Sorry to ask but have you checked for spark out of the coil and at the plug yet? You said you had fuel.

Did you turn the crank with the belt off?

The other thing to try is pull number one plug all the way out and then back in just a thread. Slowly turn the engine over by hand and listen for the compression hissing past the plug. That way you know you're at TDC or close and you can align the crankshaft gear with it's marks and recheck the cams per the above pictures to check your work. That way you'd know you aren't out 180 at the crank. If you know all three marks are good and the hydraulic tensioner is holding the belt tight it's time to move on to fuel pressure and spark.
If you're going to pull a plug I'd pull a couple just to see if they are gas fouled from the cranking.
Whatever works to get you going again :confused:

Are you joking me,,,,,, we can help with a Durango too ! ! !

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BUT why in the world would you want to fix it? It's the perfect excuse to have it towed off and traded in for a Turbo "R"!

Wagon of course!

1+ To Kiss. I have gotten more help here about other cars than I have at the specific forum. Go to the "Off Topic" section and post your problem there.