I have a cracked radiator on my 850 Turbo, with automatic transmission.
Question #1)-- How difficult is it for me to replace it myself?
I have some basic tools, and have adequate mechanical skills.

Question #2)-- How different is a NON-turbo, MANUAL Transmission radiator from a TURBO, AUTO-Transmission radiator?

Question #3) -- Has anyone bought a radiator on-line?
A new AFTERMARKET radiatoris $270 on-line.
Any recommendations on where to get a new radiator?

Thanks.

 

Search the forum a little and you will find quite a bit about replacing the radiator. I have never done one, but from reading here, it does not sound all that difficult. I would imagine the cooling lines to the transmission would be the difference between the five speed and the automatic, but I'm just making an assumption.

What's the story on the non-turbo manual transmission car? Is the transmission good? Many people looking for a donor car to convert an automatic to a five speed.

 

Just to add my 2 cents, I just replaced my radiator on my Mitsu Eclipse about 2 weeks ago. It was very simple and straightforward. I'm not sure how different the 850 would be, but the basics should be the same. Drain coolant (which I've done on my V70 and was very simple); disconnect hoses and electrical connections, unscrew attachment screws (I think there was only four on my Eclipse), remove radiator, remove fans from radiator (the fans were attached to the radiator on my Eclipse), attach fans to new radiator and reinstall.

The only difference between automatic and manual should be the lines running from the radiator to the transmission. You should be able to use the radiator from an automatic on a manual but not vice versa.

Anyway, I'm not sure what if anything is different on the Volvo, but the only thing I'd check for is anything that could be in the way to impede the removal of the radiator (maybe hoses for the turbo?). It looks pretty clear from pictures of my V70 Turbo.

Also, I just bought my radiator from Advance Auto (they pricematched the cheapest I could find online which was from www.innerauto.com - I didn't check around too much though because it was only $100 for the Eclipse radiator).

 

I'm planning to replace radiator on my 96 Volvo 850 Turbo, per Tech's recommendation while ago and I have a couple of questions, if I may.

1) What is the best way to remove transmission oil connectors? Should I drain some transmission fluid first before I disconnect the connectors from the radiator? I see 4 transmission fluid connectors...and are these re-usable? Probably not, right?

2) My starter also quit a few days ago, after I parked the car in my garage. I can see the starter now, and I will eventually figure out how to get them out, but I'm just amazed at some of you who could finish the whole job in just a few hours. Were you able to use socket wrench (or good old wrench?) to remove the mounting bolts? What's the size of the bolt? 16mm metric?

3) How do I add image(s) in my computer to this post?


Thanks for your advices and Merry Christmas to you!

1996 850 Turbo - 127K miles

 

Snap ring pliers seem to work OK for removing the connectors clips. Two of those are transmission and the other two, on the passenger's side, are for the engine oil. If you are ordering a new radiator add new connector clips to the order. Most of the old clips are rusted to the point where they want to break when you remove them. If you do try to reuse them add a ty-wrap to keep them in place. You are going to leak fluids no matter what you do. The transmission shouldn't be that bad as far as the leakage goes but I would drain the engine oil first since the oil cooler lines are at the bottom of the sump.

The turbo and automatic transmission radiators have the additional oil coolers built into them and it is important that you get the proper radiator. I can use a turbo / auto transmission radiator in my N/A with a stick but the opposite will not work.

The only starter I have removed and replaced was in my son's N/A. I was able to get it out without removing the intake manifold with sockets and wrenches. Be sure to disconnect the battery (radio code required). As I recall I removed the airbox and I had to remove the bolt that holds the transmission dip stick in order to make enough room to snake it out. All said I R&R'd it (for the first time) in about 1 hour. On the Turbo I think you need to remove the intercooler line to make room to get it out. If you are replacing the radiator I would change the starter while the radiator and the fan shroud is out of the car, it will give you more room.

The only way I have been able to add pictures is though a third party site like ImageShack. The only way it works for me is to use the "direct link" to the image which they tell you not to use on forums.

Merry Christmas,

...Lee

 

Thanks for the tips!
I am not familiar with the snap ring pliers. Would you mind explaining to me how this works?
I've got a garage full of tools and hate buying another tool just to use once and never having to use it again. My wife always use that against me and she just might have the good reason for it.

Anyway, if I'm ordering a new connector clips, can I just cut the old ones off with wire cutter? I suppose that installing a new clip would be just snap right in there and no tool is required, right?

While the radiator is being replaced, I also would like to check turbo oil return line area for oil leakage. I've read a few post by experts in this forum about how to replace O-ring and gasket in the turbo oil return line. But sadly, I am not sure where exactly this darn thing is.

There is a black hose nearby lower radiator hose that is soaked in oil...and this black hose seems to be connected to its exhaust manifold area. Is this where the O-ring and gasket is and is this the turbo oil return line you guys are talking about? And there are also two black hoses (one of them is out of air filter box and another one appears to be a unfiltered fresh air intake coming from front of the car) that seems to all head to air intake manifold. So, these can't be it!
If you know how to add images, perhaps you could do that for me with a little pointer to the O-ring? That would be much appreciated!

Thank you in advance!

 

I just finished doing mine last month and you will need the snap ring pliers. You can pick them up at most any autoparts store for less than $20 bucks. You'll find other uses for them down the road. I bought my radiator off of ebay from a company that sold Behr units and offered a lifetime warranty as long as you kept the box it came in...I paid $195 shipped!

My car is a Turbo. You will have to lift the car, either on ramps or jack stands, as the radiator needs to come out below the car. There is an excellent write up on Volvospeed.com in Bay 13. Print it out and keep it for reference. Also, take a few pictures before you start.

It's all pretty straight forward. Not too difficult. You can do it.

 

Thanks rrochelle8 for the words of encouragement!
I have also seen the writeup on Volvospeed.com, but why exactly do you think the radiator has to come out below the car? Is that because where the condenser is? Mine is 96 850 Turbo as well. I will consider dropping the radiator below the car, if that is the best way to get the job done.

Did you by chance drain engine oil (or tranny oil) before you disconnect the snap rings?
I was advised to drain engine oil for the job, but just curious how you manage to do it.

Thanks!

1996 Volvo 850 Turbo - 126K miles

 

You don't have to drain the fluids. You will only loose a small amount. Once the lines are off try to keep them pointing up and you should be fine.

The intercooler comes out with the radiator thats why it is just easier to drop out the bottom. Some have pulled it from the top but it is alot easier to drop out the bottom.

 

I did not drain any fluids other than the radiator itself. The way the radiator bolts in is from the bottom, so the easiest way is to drop it out from the bottom. You will also need thefour"O" rings on the tranny and oil lines coming from the radiator. While I had the radiator out, I took that opportunity to pull out the entire A/C system and replace the compressor, condensor, accumulator and orifice tube. The radiator was easy. The rest of that stuff was a pain.

 

rrochell8,
Did you get your O-ring(s) and replacement snap ring(s) from fcpgroton.com?
They carry turbo oil cooler hose clamp/seal kit for $19.95 and I was just curious if you purchased 2 of these kits for the job. Or from a local auto part store!

Seems to me you are a pro, I've never messed with A/C system 'cause I do not have freon recovery system. Good that you can take care of just about everything. I do what I can within my capacity and leave the rest to a pro like yourself.

Good day,

 

Its not that difficult and basically the same process in every car.

I've attached a how to guide that really helped me first time around. Since then I've done the job for several of my family and friends in many different cars.

hope it helps out.

File name: ebook_-_radiator_replace.pdf File size: 1.24 MB

 

I replaced the radiator in my '96 volvo 960 yesterday. It was pretty straightforward using a replacement unit from Autozone at $184. Some patience was required finding all of the fasteners on the plastic shrouds (e.g. the fan and scoop under the radiator). The auto trans lines didn't match up exactly, and I had to tweek them a little. This is not necessarily a good idea, and I am a little concerned that the strain may cause them to fatique and crack eventually. The system holds about 2.5 gallons of coolant, so be prepared to catch it all.

The fittings for the trans lines are pretty tight, and one must be carefull wrenching on the plastic tank. I used two wrenches on the two fittings (boss and inserrt), slightly offset so I could squeeze them together to apply the torque. Good luck.

I did not drain any trans fluid, it did not loose much, and I will just top it off eventually.

It took me about 6 hours, but I was in no hurry, and had to fight with the trans lines. No leaks today.

 

as far as changing the o rings on the auto transmission line, I can't think of where the two little green round gaskets per line go (one is slightly larger in thickness). I didn't pull any off with the old radiator except the clear squared edged gasket around the line.

 

Hi EVeryone
I have a non-turbo '96 850 (2.4L) and the radiator is cracked. I have a few questions, the most rudimentary of which being:
Q: What size wrench/ratchet head do I need to remove the bolts holding the radiator to its mounts?
- All the bolts in and around the engine and its enclosure seem to be the same size but I..Dont..Know..What.Size.It.Is.. and none of my wrenches or ratchet heads fit, so I cant get it off.

Other Question: I crashed it so... I BASICALLY JUST WANT EVERYONE'S OPINION: DO YOU THINK IT WILL RUN AGAIN OR NOT? (read below for details)

**(Now, I realize there are a lot of words here, but,) PLEASE READ THIS INFO (below) FIRST IF YOU WANT TO HELP AND ANSWER (accurately).

**THANKS TO ANYONE WHO RESPONDS!

The Story;
I wrecked my '96 850 into a tree in a snowstorm in Denver, it still ran but looked atrocious and was nowhere near street legal... I tried not to but I still drove it a few times with the radiator cracked (its a BIG crack)... When i did have to drive I tried to keep the temp down by making my trips in the car short as hell with the engine in neutral or off as much as possible. And i put water into it trying to cool it every chance I got.. it just drained out within seconds maybe minutes every time tho. I drove it like this 7 times max, not far - est. 2 miles each (or less) First few times, she started right up, but got more and more resistant every time.. finally she could only be jumped.. once it was jumped it was drive-able tho and that was the last time it was runiing so im hoping its still ok..

QUESTION BEING: How much damage does everyone think I did? AND, If I buy a new radiator (and battery) could it run again?

More info:
The last time I drove it, it died right outside where I was going and, unable to start it, I took the bus home. I waited a day then went back, jumped it (with great difficulty) and from then it sat in my garage for almost a month. I couldn't take the battery out cuz the hood was stuck shut so that's dead and gone too. The hood was only latched in one place but i still couldnt open it so i was gonna scrap it.. a few days ago i found this blog and got the thing open! Now im inspired and I wanna get it running and driveable again.. DO YOU THINK ITS POSSIBLE? It ran after it crashed but idk how much damage i did driving it around without proper cooling (it was cold as $H*T outside tho)

TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK THANKS!

 

sounds to me the starting problem is just a bad battery. As long as you didn't peg the arm for the temp gauge, should be fine.

What you will have to do first though is put a new battery in and replace the radiator before you can find other possible damage. Like A/C condenser leak, EVAP leaks, ect.

12MM answer to your question., oh and T-25 is the torx. I could do these things in my sleep. Remember to be sure to move all mounting tabs and the grommets over to the new radiator.

 

I bought an aftermarket radiator from Autozone for about $200 for my 960. The new one started leaking at the seam after two months. I had a volvo dealer install the OEM last week for $ 600. Not sure I will get my $200 back, but I didn not have time to do the job over again with a questionable replacement part. If I were to do it again, I would go with the maunufacturers part for an extra $100 and do the install myself. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks everyone for your help. New question..
I have until recently been under the impression that the radiator is metal. Its not, its plastic. Idk if it was replaced that way or what but its plastic. It cracked on impact where its mounted on the passenger side, nothing else is damages as far as I can tell. Question being: can i possibly just JB weld the thing back together and forgo re-mounting it on the passenger side to avoid breaking it again? This obviously would not be a permanent fix but just to get back and forth to school (maybe 2 miles) once a day until I can afford a new radiator? The new battery is gonna cost me at least $100 which i was not expecting (is a used one even an option???) so the financial damage increased significantly and i cant afford both right this minute. Im using my girls car right now to make the drive, which she is being a saint about, but i know shes not happy about it. I really want this thing to just run again.. who thinks what?
thanks again this forum has helped me so much its unbelievable.

 

mmmm. I guess you could try to repair it. I would not use JB weld. I would use some plastic epoxy.

Keep in mind pressure the radiator holds at operating temp is 13 PSI (13 times normal atmosphere) Which is frankly a lot. If the repair will hold I do not know.

have you tried calling junk yards to see if they have any good used ones?

 

Their words, not mine.
Everything needed to repair cracks and holes in tanks and housing. Gas or diesel fuel tanks, oil pans, transmission housing, radiators, reservoirs, portable tanks. No need to drain tank.

I'd look for something made by 3M or Permatex as I have more experience with their other products. I haven't used a radiator patch, I've always just replaced them. If I was going to use it I'd rough up the area with some sand paper to give it a better chance at a "bite" and I'd make sure it was clean and dry. They say you don't need to drain but I'd drain it below the crack before attempting to apply. It's cheap insurance you'll get the best results you can. They sell kits for repairing radiators at auto parts stores.