Seat Replacement
#5
#7
The first 850s had the seatbelt restrainers somewhere near the beltlock. If yours is under the plastic cover of the B pillar than you are "good to go" for the SV70 seats up to 98. Also power seats will fit, they only need permanent 12V and ground (diagnose is optional, 95 models and prior also had ignition plus but it also works without them).
#8
Found a pair of seats for my '96 850
I found a pair of very nice front seats from a '98 V70 XC. My question now is, will I be able to connect the seatbelts in my 850 to the new seats? Also, the replacement passenger seat is power, but the 850 seat is not. I would like to use the power seat, but I am not sure I want to go through the gyrations necessary to make it work. Can I dismount the seat and remount it to my manual track without the power module? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
#9
96 850 and V70 98 should have the same seat belt buckle. If it does not work (seatbelt light does not turn off) then you can easily switch the lock is one torx 50 bolt.
The subframes are not compatible. The seat only neads 12v permanent and ground in order for it to function. It is also pretty easy to do it.
The best would be to get the harness from the "donor".
You have to take out the "lid" under the dashboard on the passenger side.
Also take out the glovebox.
Behind the glovebox you will see a big connector (with a lot of wires).
Take the connector out , unlock it (pull the plastic lock up) and take it apart.
The big connector consists of multiple smaller connectors. The top most is the A connector.
In it at position 1 (Green on the other side) is permanent 12v for the seat.
It would be great if you could source such a harness as all will fit plug & play.
If you want to be able to diagnose the seat you need to conect a second wire to the B connector (under A) at position 9, wire color on the "male" side of the connector is Brown-Orange. a 0,6mm² will do the job
The permanent power wire should be a 2mm² as a lot of power flows through it.
These 2 wires (if you connect the optional diagnose wire) should be routed along the doors under the carpet. There is a plastic tunnell for the wires.
At the B pillar there is a hose which goes to the seat. Through this hose you need to route these wires , and also the ground wire which is also 2mm².
The ground wire goes in the back under the back seat on the passenger side. There is a ground point.
At the seat you need the connector for the seat which is a 4 pin connector which has the part no 968484. You may need to cut of the "nose" if it does not match the female connector .
In this connector go the 3 wires (groud, permanent, diagnose) . You need 3 crimp cable terminals part no 979002 . This stuff is really cheap cost under 2$ per pcs.
The connector is numbered so you can see where each cable has to go:
1 - permanent 12v
3 - ground
4 - diagnose
Also you need the fuse for the power seat . The fuse is in the fuse box under the big lid. So 4x torx25 then take the lid of. The fuse goes to position 40 and is the big circuit breaker which is also used for the drivers power seat and the power windows. Here is how it looks SKANDIX Shop Universal parts: Fuse Standard flat fuse 20 A 3545478 (1027580)
Happy crafting
If you still have questions you can write me a PM...
Cheers
Cristian
- who retroffited 8 or so power seats so far -
The subframes are not compatible. The seat only neads 12v permanent and ground in order for it to function. It is also pretty easy to do it.
The best would be to get the harness from the "donor".
You have to take out the "lid" under the dashboard on the passenger side.
Also take out the glovebox.
Behind the glovebox you will see a big connector (with a lot of wires).
Take the connector out , unlock it (pull the plastic lock up) and take it apart.
The big connector consists of multiple smaller connectors. The top most is the A connector.
In it at position 1 (Green on the other side) is permanent 12v for the seat.
It would be great if you could source such a harness as all will fit plug & play.
If you want to be able to diagnose the seat you need to conect a second wire to the B connector (under A) at position 9, wire color on the "male" side of the connector is Brown-Orange. a 0,6mm² will do the job
The permanent power wire should be a 2mm² as a lot of power flows through it.
These 2 wires (if you connect the optional diagnose wire) should be routed along the doors under the carpet. There is a plastic tunnell for the wires.
At the B pillar there is a hose which goes to the seat. Through this hose you need to route these wires , and also the ground wire which is also 2mm².
The ground wire goes in the back under the back seat on the passenger side. There is a ground point.
At the seat you need the connector for the seat which is a 4 pin connector which has the part no 968484. You may need to cut of the "nose" if it does not match the female connector .
In this connector go the 3 wires (groud, permanent, diagnose) . You need 3 crimp cable terminals part no 979002 . This stuff is really cheap cost under 2$ per pcs.
The connector is numbered so you can see where each cable has to go:
1 - permanent 12v
3 - ground
4 - diagnose
Also you need the fuse for the power seat . The fuse is in the fuse box under the big lid. So 4x torx25 then take the lid of. The fuse goes to position 40 and is the big circuit breaker which is also used for the drivers power seat and the power windows. Here is how it looks SKANDIX Shop Universal parts: Fuse Standard flat fuse 20 A 3545478 (1027580)
Happy crafting
If you still have questions you can write me a PM...
Cheers
Cristian
- who retroffited 8 or so power seats so far -
#10
Thanks to everybody for the information. I now have an additional question. I plan on swapping the seat belt lock, but I see that the lock on the donor seat is wired through the seat under the upholstery, and then connects with a couple more wires under the seat and into a wiring harness that I believe interfaces with the seat front/back, height and recline functions. I have not pulled the original seat yet. Is there anything that I need to be careful with when replacing the donor belt lock with the original?
#11
From the lock there are 2 wires (black if I remember correctly) . These go underneath the seat and end in an white connector which holds 2 more wires for the heating function. You need to carefully take out the 2 cables from this connector and then plug them in the other one. Or you could cut the wires and "hot wire"
The cables are as far as I know fixed with tie straps (hope its the right word ). Just be carefull to not damage the SIPS cable as they run along for a brief section.
The cables are as far as I know fixed with tie straps (hope its the right word ). Just be carefull to not damage the SIPS cable as they run along for a brief section.
#12
Thanks again to everybody here! The seat is in, in what was a relatively painless operation...basically plug and play...no SRS light, no airbag issues, just a way nicer seat. I only have one more question: the seat belt anchor at the rear bottom of the seat is different. The 850 seat has a 12mm hex bolt (about 2" long, mostly smooth, with about a 1/4 " of thread on the end) mounted through a bracket that is welded to the seat frame. The V70 seat has only one short T50 bolt. I don't remember what connected the belt to the T50, but I don't have it. For now, I just took the T50 out of the belt lock on the 850 (a little longer than the one from the V70) and ran it through the loop at the end of the belt. It works, but it restricts the belt pretty severely. Does anyone know if there is a piece of hardware I can use to mount the belt using the T50?
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