Anyone ever run into a problem like mine? while changing the oil on my 850, i noticed that the drain plug pulled out some thread shavings from out of the oil pan causing a slow oil leak . The pan itself is aluminum while the drain plug is steel... any suggestions on the best way to resolve this issue? havent looked into new oil pans yet and hopefully wont have to.. any and all help is appreciated!!

 

That's why I change my own oil. Some places tighten the bolt to tight (or cross thread the hole) and mess up the threads. A new aluminum washer is suppose to be use each time the oil is changed which will create a decent seal for you. A lot of places that change oil do not have the correct washer so they toss something else there and try to stop leaks by over tightening it.

What I suggest you do is check IPD or FCP and see if they sell a larger bolt. Then take the car somewhere and have the hole tapped to the new bolt size. It will just be a little larger.

Now on the down side... There is a chance that something else is going on in the motor, like a bearing is going out, that may drop some shavings. Hopefully that's not your issue. www.iPDUSA.com even sells a magnetic oil plug for that reason.

 

Try changing the drain plug and washer first, that is the cheapest route.
Go with the magnetic drain plug like rspi said.

If that doesent work before you drop $300 on a new oil pan, you can tap the hole and use a larger drain plug. we do this on motorcycles all the time when people strip them out. A good reputable shop will tap in the new plug for about $15

Or you can always pull one from the JY probally run you about $20-$30

 

This is common on a lot of vehicles with aluminum pans. Best course of action without replacement is using a heli coil to rethread the threads.

 

Had this happen to Hondas all the time back in the 80's from shops over tightening then. I ended up buying a tap the right size for the pans. Back then metric wasn't that common and it was a difficult tap to acquire. Usually after chasing the thread I would get a pretty good grip and life was back to normal. Getting a new plug is highly recommended as is changing the gasket each time the plugs removed.

Next, there are oversized plugs available that cut their threads and you have to be careful to start them in straight but it's something you can do on your own in the driveway. Not sure if they make them in a size for our 850's but they are available for a number of different vehicles.

If your's is really bad you might be down two options. If your pan gasket is already leaking then changing the pan might not be a bad option if you want to cure that leak from the pan gasket and get a better drain plug hole in the replacement pan.
If the pan gasket is not leaking much or you don't want to go that route for whatever reason there is also the option of replacing the threads in the pan. It's best done off the car but can be done in place.

The kit shown is obviously not the right size. Available at auto parts stores, hardware stores and others.
How to Repair Threads With A Heli-Coil Insert - YouTube
This is one of many youtube videos, not sure it's the best but it gives you options on what to do to get back on the road.

 

thank you everybody for your replies, i will certainly try the heli-coil insert first as my oil pan does not show any other signs of wear *knocks on wood* besides the drain plug threads which i determined to be crossed-threaded like RSPI has mentioned. meanwhile, i just threw in a bottle of Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer to my 10w-30 synt blend to further minimize my slow leak. thank you everyone for your replies, you guys are great!!

 

Just so you know, Lucas it a great additive but in your case with the oil pan drain hole threads being damaged and a metal drain plug you aren't going to get any benefit of the additives stop leak properties. It only works on seals as the chemicals that do the work tend to soften and swell the gaskets. It doesn't do anything to the metal to help it seal the way something like radiator stop leak will. Sorry

 

thanks for the detailed explanation!! i had no clue how that lucas stuff worked but i never heard a negative thing about it and my step dad always recommends me to add it. now the drain plug that i have in has some type of fiber material for a washer which is deteriorating noticeably due to the heat?? im guessing... would a metal washer be my best option for a durable seal?

 

I'm lazy and don't replace my washers as often as I should. The washer should be replaced every oil change per most manufacturers recommendations.

There are a lot of options. I love the Ford ones that have a captive O ring as they seal great time after time.
That being said if you have a fiber, nylon, copper or aluminum washer it really should be replace each oil change. I like the nylon if you do replace them because I feel they "crush" better and make up for any surface irregularities or "absorb" any dirt that might be at the mating surface. It doesn't really absorb it but it gets imbedded in the material and doesn't hinder it from making a seal as it might against copper or aluminum. One thing about the nylon is you will see them pancake and get thinner each time they are reused and that leaves them with less and less material to make a good seal. Copper and aluminum will too but it's not nearly as noticeable.

Best bet is go to the parts store and grab a 3-4 dollar packet of extra gaskets and toss them in your glove box. Replace them every time you remember.

It would also be a good time to upgrade to a magnetic drain plug. Helps pull out small metal particles from the fluid and alerts you is something is going wrong before it gets critical. It should be an M18 X 1.5 and FCP sells them from under $5. The first picture is a magnetic one.

 

Bummer! I like the plug on my F-50. Steel nut in pan, aluminum bolt. Softer metal is sacreficed by over tightening. Had to replace 1 bolt due to over tightening by a quick lube shop. Now I do or take to better shop. I always like to look @ the oil to see what the engine is doing anyways.