Hi guys, just wanted to know what would be the signs of a wheel bearing going bad? been having some issues with the abs kicking in like crazy and the tracs going when taking off...i also have a howling almost grinding noise coming from the front drivers side when turning the steering wheel to the right.. With a jack i lifted each tire to inspect...the FD side had a little bit of play when wiggling the tire up and down...the other ones didn't do this....i spun all 4 tires....the FD and the rears would only turn 1.5 revolutions and the PASS FRONT only turned a half revolution....any help would be great...i'm bringing it to the garage tomorrow, but i'd like to guild them as to what to look for..more or less..thanks
fabs

 

Usually a bad wheel bearing will make a humming noise that will usually start when you hit 30MPH. But if you have some up and down play it might be bad or the axle nut might be loose.

 

+1 Tech

A loose axle nut will make the ABS/Tracks work funny but will it contribute to play?
A bad wheel bearing can defiantely do that. How about checking the bolts for the hub?

 

Thanks guys...silly question but where exactly is the axle nut located? i will check it out and if loose will tighten with air wratchet..thanks
fabs

 

Hi guys, never mind i saw the axle nut...i had a hard time taking off the nuts for the tire (tightenede too hard)...unfortunatly i don't even have a size 36 socket to tighten the axle nut..doh! .i will let the garage know to take a look at it tomorrow....somehow i have a feeling it's the wheel hub..arrgg.we'll see..i know it's a costly job to change one of them..doh! if it's not, maybe i'll change all 4, better safe then sorry..thanks
fabs

 

Turbo 94-97:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-ex.../by_model/1137

93, 94-97 NA:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-ex.../by_model/1136

Procedure:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/FWDbearingHub.php


JPN

 

Chef,

If you have a warm garage (cold in Montreal right now huh?) you can replace yourself. It is not that hard and (excuse the hack method) you don't need a 36MM socket, I have used a cheap "pipe wrench" or "monkey wrench" you can get at Canadian Tire or someplace pretty cheap to remove the axle nut. I would also think about doing the brakes at this time since all that has to come off anyway.

I word of advice also, I replaced the passenger side and only 3 months later had to do the drivers side bearing. Think about doing both at one time. Be sure to use a punch (or old phillips screw driver) to release the locking "dent" in the nut before removing. Also, you will need a new Wheel Nut. (unless if your lucky switching the right to the left will allow you to "peen" in the locking ring in a new spot) They will usually go right back to the same spot when reused and I wouldn't trust it to stay tight.

 

UPDATE***

Just got back from the garage, it was the bearing that was finished..the other ones are okay. He also did an alignment seeing as it hasn't been done, which was good cause the tires in the front where slanded a little to the right and the rears where pointing inwards. The car seems to ride a bit smoother and quieter. In the end...for the hub with labour it was 365.84 and with the alignment 53.96...total was$419.80 plus taxes. Not too bad i think?
anywho we'll see how it rides...i think i will bleed the brakes tomorrow night...for good measure!
OH YA....what is the recommended brake fluid to use...DOT3 or Dot 4???
thanks again
fabs

 

DOT 4+
Try and get Full synthetic Brake Fluid (DOT 5.1, i think).

 

I would stick to DOT-4 as per Volvo recommendation. DOT-5 is a different type of fluid generally used on racing cars and may not be compatible for some rubber seals & hoses on passenger vehicles. See what Tech has to say on this.

I recommend ATE Blue Racing, as you can see the difference in colour and would know when your system is absolutely free of the old fluid. After 30,000 miles/3 years, I would flush the system again, only that time it would be ATE Amber.


JPN

 

Me I would use the DOT4.

 

DOT 5 is Silicone fluid safer for paint (if you do not plan to repaint anytime) but can cause problems depending on the makeup of the seals in the system. TRUST ME I know what can happen using the wrong fluid.

ATE Super Blue is technically "Illegal" in the U.S. because of the the color, otherwise it is perfectly compatible with DOT 4 and is better for flushing and bleeding the first time but after that it is always blue! LOL.

Valvoline DOT 4 has worked well for me make sure it says for ABS systems. (Not sure why but I always have made sure of that designation)