I put this under the other thread, but I thought you might see it better as a new topic. We are not getting spark to the plugs. Seems to be getting fuel fine. We are stumped on what to check.

 

Check your e-mail and other post.

 

As Tech already said, inspect cam position sensor.

As a reminder, it wouldn't hurt to check ECU trouble codes.

 

Checked the codes and there was only the ones from before taking it apart. Checked the cam positon sensor, but can not really tell if it's good or not. We are not certain if the rotor is on properly, but can it really even be put on wrong. We checked the timing tonight and have that right for sure. Don't think it was wrong last night, but we redid it just to make sure. Is there a way to tell if the rotor is on right? The cam position sensor lists for $175 and I really don't want to spend that much unless I know it's the problem. Is there a way to test it? We were going to take the one of the V70 and try the one from the 850 on that car, but it just got late and it's kind of a hassle to take it off the V70. Started doing it and then just quit. I was afraid I'd end up with two cars not running tomorrow.

 

One frequent problem with reinstalling the head in the Mitsubishi world... Distributor is installed off by 180 degrees. Is it possible to install a distributor off by 180 degree with a 5 cylinder engine?

All I can think of at the moment...
1) ECU is not receiving tach signal
2) ECU is not able to determine cam position
3) ECU is not able to determine crank position

There has to be a connector that wasn't put back together somewhere.

 

The only real way to test is by swapping. Without having all the computer stuff from work hard to tell.
The rotor only fits on the metal bracket one way. But the metal bracket can be put on backwards.Like with the cam sensor peice. Remove the metal peice and see if the metal tabs are all ok.Then look closely and make sure it is on properly.

I will try to look at the wiring diagram and see if there could be anything else possible.

 

We finally got it started after getting it in time and replacing the cam sensor. It ran really rough, so we assumed we bent valves cranking it while out of time. Took the head back off and had two bent valves. I now have the head back at the machine shop waiting for two valves that they had to order. Anybody reading this and thinking about doing their own timing belt be careful. That darn mark on the crank shaft is a b!tch to find. We did manage to get it in time and got it started.

We do know what we are doing now, but there should be an easier way to see that timing mark on the crank shaft. Originally I had a burnt exhaust valve. Now I have two bent intake valves. We had the car running and when it was rough and decided to take the head back off we had it off in less that two hours and stopped to eat breakfast while doing it. It's not that hard once you know what you are doing.

 

Sorry so much trouble!!! Im going to try to get some pics and post them.

 

Not to insult anyone but I was always taught to mark the position myself with a marker before taking it apart.

 

We had it totally marked before we took it apart. Then when it would not start, we threw off the marks we made and was not sure if it was in time, and I read where it said to never go by marks you make but to use the factory marks. Things kind of went downhill from there. The mark on the crank pully should not be that hard to see. We were looking at the wrong mark when we cranked it the second time and heard when the piston hit the valves. Now we know to turn it over by hand a couple times to make sure everthing is smooth before cranking it. It cost me $90 and another week w/o the car and the time to take it apart and put it back together. Nick supposed to come up today.

 

Well this has turned into a real nightmare. We got it running today and it was smooth and running great. Nick had to pick up his son so he and my daughter decided to take the R. About five minutes later they returned with antifreeze and steam coming out of the car like crazy. Nick forgot to tighten one of the hose clamps. Now when we got it restarted it was running rough and we had no compression in the #1 cylinder again. Checked the timing and it was off by one tooth. So we put back in time, but it still will not run smooth and we keep getting P1310 and P301 codes over and over. Also have some oil leaking from the turbo hose. We do not know why the #1 cylinder is giveing us problems. It is getting spark, but the compression is very low. We had it in time and there was no sound to let us believe a valve is bent or anything, and it certainly did not run long enough to burn one. We are thinking that maybe one of those piston things that push the valve down had some stuff around it or something and it might be keeping one of the valves stuck slightly open. Once I get the o-rings for the turbo line, we were thinking of just running it for a while to see if that might free it up if something is stuck. Any ideas?

 

It didn't overheat did it?

Maybe there might be a gasket problem again.

 

It only ran for less than five minutes. It was still pouring out coolant from the lower radiator hose when he pulled it back in the garage. Could it have overheated bad enough to damage the head gasket that fast?

 

It is possible considering how many times the head has been off and shaved.
Try to get ahold of a block tester and test for a bad headgasket.

Does it run hot?

 

No it did not run hot. As far as I know the head has only been shaved once and that was the first time we had it off. When we took it off the 2nd time, we used the same head gasket since the car had never even been run on the one we had put in. Should I have bought another head gasket instead of using the same one? Man I'm going to hate to have to take that head off again. I still might just try running it for a while. Unless you think it would do more damage to run it?

 

You really should have bought a NEW gasket. Once compressed it is pretty much useless after pulling it apart.

Since the clearances are so fine on the engine it might have blown it out by itself. Also if most of the coolant was out then it might have run hot as well. But it wouldn't have shown on the guage because there was no coolant to get the temp from.

You can try running it for a couple but also remember you have one cylinder DEAD and you will have all that raw gas moving around.


Sorry I wish I had better news for you!!

 

Bascially you are saying then the best thing to do would be to take the head back off and put in a new head gasket? We didn't put oil between the little piston like things that push down the valves either like we did the first time. We also put the pink gasket stuff under the cam cover on and immediatley put it on the head. The dealer said we should let it sit about an hour after applying the stuff before installing. He never told me that before and said he should have. We did not get directions with the tube of stuff, but there are some on the other tube I picked up today. We just put it on out of the tube, but next time I think I will try rolling it with a paint roller like you said. Should I avoid getting in/on any specific areas? And how thick should it be?

 

Yes I would say a new headgasket.

Roll I pretty thin layer on enough for you to see it. The you can stick it in right away. It doesn't cure till all the air is removed from it. It doesn't have to be thick or it will overflow into the oil passages. Just roll all the way across on the flat surfaces. Don't worry about what the dealer said about waiting an hour.

The lifters should be fine.If they had a slight bit of oil on them from before you will be fine. Just put a little on this time.(oil that is)

 

Tech, your thoughts on ---

Using compressed air and gently using tap to clean and chase threads on holes for head bolts.

Also, what weight of oil would you use for lubing head bolts?

 

You could do that When I do it at home I use Q-tips to clean out the holes.

Any thin lube will work I have seen people use light Grease to lube the Headbolts.