Turbo Leak (3 psi drop after one day of maintenance)
 

Beginning of this week I was boosting 7-8 psi, now only 4-5psi.

This problem happended after my brother replaced these:

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ategory_id/215

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ategory_id/215

I am assuming it is just a matter of tightening an upper IC hose or something of the sort. I don't think he needed to unroute the sysytem but he did.

Turbo still spools like normal, however, it will not kick in at higher rpms like it did before. It used to boost normal up to 70 mph then lag and now it will lag after 60 mph. I'm guessing that is just a result of a leak. Everything acts as if I had a turbocharger that only boosted 4 psi. What I am trying to say is that it is still a very clean boost.

I wanted to ask... What are other connections I should check? Could he have possibly adjusted the wastegate by accident?

How does it shift? Normal? Hard(ish?)? Does it seem like you have the same torque valuees?

The shifting is like it always was.

About the torque:
The turbo spools at the same time as always but just doesn't pull the car forward as fast and hard as it used to. I figured that was just because of the missing 3 psi.

check all the hoses...make sure they are holding good.

+1. Lack \of torque is the unequal air volume the maf sensor is sayingits pulling in.

Total newb question but how many hoses and which ones (if you could tell me they run from here to here that would be awesome)

5 hoeses total. someone try and look up a diagram

Diagram would be great for this thanks guys

just follow the tubes from the turbo to the IC, to the ic to the TB

remember it is a bottom to top ic

Just these hoses?

Yes check them. Espically the one going to the throttle body.

I'm checking today but if I find no leaks, what else could it be? I mean take into consideration it dropped 3 psi in one day.

My bro definitely changed something. Is there some kind of adjustment that would turn down the boost if there is no leak? I was thinking wastegate but I don't think he is dumb enough to adjust that, but who knows.

Not unless ironically the bypass valve just went bad.

So this doesnt make sense....

I uninstalled the stock turbo tubing and reinstalled new tubing along with t-ing into it for my aftermarket gauge (didn't want two gauges running from the turbo tree itself).

1. I fire the car up and get a check engine light. I also notice the car idles rough. I drive it anyway and only get 4 psi of boost like I have been since last week.

2. Come home, check the CEL -- misfires in cylinders 4 and 5. Reset the CEL.

3. Drive again. Idles fine. All of the sudden I am getting 6 psi of boost. I can not make sense of the situation in my head.


Although it did used to get 7-8 psi of boost so I am still misisng some boost. Can anyone make sense of this situation? I'm sure it sounds like I am making stuff up the ways events have played out recently.

After reading the last message note that even thought I am getting 6 psi, there is still a noticeable lack of torque.

this makes total sense. you have a firing issue on 4 and 5, thus less exhaust hitting ur turbo, thus less boost. and with 4 and 5 having an issue a rough idle would seem normal... and also a loss of power....

toss in new plugs, if that doesnt work go for new wires.

Never really pieced it together like that. Well Done!

But how do you explain after I reset the CEL yesterday everything ran fine? And it is still running fine today.

Would this also explain why when it was idling rough the aftermarket gauge bounced around at -20 inHg when there was no throttle action? It doesnt bounce anymore now that my car is running fine but when it was running rough yesterday I had that problem.

I will pull and check the sparks after work today.

Bad injectors leaking down into the cylinders causing the misfire?

But could the CEL have been a fluke? I mean after I reset it the car ran a hell of a lot better. While running with the CEL, the car idled rough and poured brown smoke out of the tailpipe while boosting 4 psi. After reseting the CEL, no smoke and no rough idling while boosting 6 psi.

I don't see how that would happen with bad sparks or a bad fuel injector.

I would say the car is fixed because I am only 1-2 psi off of what I was early last week but I still notice a lack of torque and it seems that the boost doesnt build as fast as it used to.

Maybe Mass Flow is going bad.

Is there a way to test the MAF?

So I have a free Saturday (10 full hours of free-time) and plan to run a bunch of tests.

I was thinking a MAF test, spark plug test, fuel injector test, boost leak test, and whatever test you guys think I could do to troubleshoot the missing 2 psi and lack of torque.

For the boost leak test I plan to make a valve do-hicky so I can attach an end cap with a tire valve onto the turbo inlet then pump the whole system with like 5-10 psi of pressure and listen for leaks.

My question is, how do I go about running the other tests and any other tests you guys deem necessary?

for the injectors lightly lay the tip of a screw driver on the injector, and you should hear the screw driver tick on the side of the injector if it is working.

spark plug test im a fan of just putting the plug in the wire and laying it on the top of the valve cover and looking for a blue spark...

your correct about the boost test.

for the maf test... listen to your car with it using a maf... then shut it down and unplug the maf and start it back up (this may through a CEL). if it hardly runs or sounds like crap with the maf unpluged, well ur maf is half good then i guess.

Do the injectors need to be pulled or do I do this while the engine is running? Will this test for leaks in the injectors?

How do I go about doing this?

So if the car runs better with the MAF unplugged, then the MAF is bad?

leave the injectors in the car and the car running. (so they will be firing, you will hear/feel a click when the injector turns on/off)

for the spark plug test. put the spark plug into the wire and touch the body of the plug to ground (valve cover happens to be ground) and then look between the electrode for a strong blue spark.


ur correct on the MAF

I've never heard of this test. Are you saying pull the spark from the engine while it is running to test it?

No!

Engine off.
Then pull the plugs.
Rest them on a spot to see them clearl. valve cover as metioned....
then turn the key as if you trying to start.
should see the spark.

I'm not actually going to crank the engine tho, just in position II (car on) correct?

no, you need some one to crank the key, while you or some one watches the plugs to see if they spark.
A remote starter works well if it is only you.

The car wont start anyways for all the plugs should be out of the car. or you can undo all the wires from the plugs, and test the plugs one at a time.

is it the same diagram for the 850R. And will a 6 puck clutch make a difference with the turbo or that just the clutch pulling harder....
and if you guys could refer a good boost gauge im sick of the little dial...also a new shift knob mine is worn out... :D

and your lack of torque is because u need a standard....

is this diagram the same for a 96 850R, 5 speed!!?

What diagram? The turbo hoses?

What are you talking about???

ya the turbo hoses diagram i want to order a entire kit from eurosport.com of all metal charge piping not this plastic and rubber ****... just want to know if thats the same set up for a 850R:D...
just being a smart ass about the standard thing lol;)

The diagram should be the same but don't quote me.

As long as you are ordering all new hoses, get the reverse intercooler piping. I heard the performance upgrade it's not worth it if your pipes are in good shape but since you plan to revamp your system why not.

on the site when looking at the parts, it says better throttle response and gain any lost boost..... check it out its only two pipes though... heres the link
http://www.eurosporttuning.ca/mm5/me...Code=VL-850-en

It definitely looks like it would simplify things. The throttle response is I'm sure from the boost not having to travel as far. The lost boost I heard comes from the old rubber piping expanding. It makes sense, the silicone will absorb some of the pressure.

Not to mention it looks totally Bad A**

What I have heard which I think is completely negligable is that running the piping down the IC is better because cold air sinks.

By running the cold air upwards apparently you lose a little boost due to backflow. Now I can see if it was dealing with water, downwards is definitely an advantage but I can't see air collapsing under its own weight. Maybe you will get .001 psi back but I think the main deal is the shorter route and hardened tubing which is a big +

im gonna put some pics on at about 7 o'clock my time here in ontario, could u tell me how to add a pic to my profile like u have.... u should like it..... volvos are f*ckin awsome. im runnin 304bhp with just a chip and turned the boost up to 11 pounds... i love it