Turbo Leak (3 psi drop after one day of maintenance)
#22
So I have a free Saturday (10 full hours of free-time) and plan to run a bunch of tests.
I was thinking a MAF test, spark plug test, fuel injector test, boost leak test, and whatever test you guys think I could do to troubleshoot the missing 2 psi and lack of torque.
For the boost leak test I plan to make a valve do-hicky so I can attach an end cap with a tire valve onto the turbo inlet then pump the whole system with like 5-10 psi of pressure and listen for leaks.
My question is, how do I go about running the other tests and any other tests you guys deem necessary?
I was thinking a MAF test, spark plug test, fuel injector test, boost leak test, and whatever test you guys think I could do to troubleshoot the missing 2 psi and lack of torque.
For the boost leak test I plan to make a valve do-hicky so I can attach an end cap with a tire valve onto the turbo inlet then pump the whole system with like 5-10 psi of pressure and listen for leaks.
My question is, how do I go about running the other tests and any other tests you guys deem necessary?
#23
for the injectors lightly lay the tip of a screw driver on the injector, and you should hear the screw driver tick on the side of the injector if it is working.
spark plug test im a fan of just putting the plug in the wire and laying it on the top of the valve cover and looking for a blue spark...
your correct about the boost test.
for the maf test... listen to your car with it using a maf... then shut it down and unplug the maf and start it back up (this may through a CEL). if it hardly runs or sounds like crap with the maf unpluged, well ur maf is half good then i guess.
spark plug test im a fan of just putting the plug in the wire and laying it on the top of the valve cover and looking for a blue spark...
your correct about the boost test.
for the maf test... listen to your car with it using a maf... then shut it down and unplug the maf and start it back up (this may through a CEL). if it hardly runs or sounds like crap with the maf unpluged, well ur maf is half good then i guess.
Last edited by 850tony; 07-08-2009 at 12:35 PM.
#24
So if the car runs better with the MAF unplugged, then the MAF is bad?
#25
leave the injectors in the car and the car running. (so they will be firing, you will hear/feel a click when the injector turns on/off)
for the spark plug test. put the spark plug into the wire and touch the body of the plug to ground (valve cover happens to be ground) and then look between the electrode for a strong blue spark.
ur correct on the MAF
for the spark plug test. put the spark plug into the wire and touch the body of the plug to ground (valve cover happens to be ground) and then look between the electrode for a strong blue spark.
ur correct on the MAF
#26
I've never heard of this test. Are you saying pull the spark from the engine while it is running to test it?
#28
#29
no, you need some one to crank the key, while you or some one watches the plugs to see if they spark.
A remote starter works well if it is only you.
The car wont start anyways for all the plugs should be out of the car. or you can undo all the wires from the plugs, and test the plugs one at a time.
A remote starter works well if it is only you.
The car wont start anyways for all the plugs should be out of the car. or you can undo all the wires from the plugs, and test the plugs one at a time.
#30
#35
#36
#37
on the site when looking at the parts, it says better throttle response and gain any lost boost..... check it out its only two pipes though... heres the link
http://www.eurosporttuning.ca/mm5/me...Code=VL-850-en
http://www.eurosporttuning.ca/mm5/me...Code=VL-850-en
#38
It definitely looks like it would simplify things. The throttle response is I'm sure from the boost not having to travel as far. The lost boost I heard comes from the old rubber piping expanding. It makes sense, the silicone will absorb some of the pressure.
Not to mention it looks totally Bad A**
Not to mention it looks totally Bad A**
#39
What I have heard which I think is completely negligable is that running the piping down the IC is better because cold air sinks.
By running the cold air upwards apparently you lose a little boost due to backflow. Now I can see if it was dealing with water, downwards is definitely an advantage but I can't see air collapsing under its own weight. Maybe you will get .001 psi back but I think the main deal is the shorter route and hardened tubing which is a big +
By running the cold air upwards apparently you lose a little boost due to backflow. Now I can see if it was dealing with water, downwards is definitely an advantage but I can't see air collapsing under its own weight. Maybe you will get .001 psi back but I think the main deal is the shorter route and hardened tubing which is a big +
#40