I finally finished the tutorial I was writing after doing this repair on our 1996 Volvo 850 (non-turbo). It includes the head gasket, timing belt, water pump, oil seals, PCV, etc. I hope this helps a lot of folks, as I really could not find anything like this with any pictures before I jumped into this job.

http://www.tracystruesoaps.com/tutorials/850hg/p1.html

Thanks,

Tracy

 

FANTASTIC tutorial, best I have ever seen. I wish YOU had written the Haynes manuals. Thanks for a great job!

 

Good job. I made it a sticky for now. I will also add it to the Useful Information thread and eventually take the Sticky off.

 

Thanks. Haynes manuals are great for general direction, and are the only type of "non-manufacturer" manuals I have ever used (and will continue to use), but having one picture (sometimes not even a great picture) of every 5th or 6th step doesn't cut it sometimes lol. Not knocking them, but I was also surprised that the most important torque spec of this whole job (head bolt torque) was inaccurate.

Have a great one,

Tracy

 

Truly incredible! Great job, I hope to use it as a reference one day – if I have to, of course!
You list all of the parts ordered and their FCP numbers, which is great. Did you keep track of how much all of the parts cost?

Thanks Tracy! A job well done, both on the repair and the write-up.

 

The parts were just over $400 - after a 10% discount, with free shipping, a couple other things not in the tutorial (like fuel filter, magnetic drain plug, something else), and I should also add that I elected not to replace the TB tensioner and pulleys (which saved about $170). They were all still in really good shape (only 111,000 miles on her) and I can do that later or next TB job. The estimate from the local Volvo dealership was in the "$3,300 range" for parts and labor on everything I did. Thanks!

PS - I was amazed that the "tool set" to do this with (that runs for $500 if you Google it) could be substituted for so easily. That one blind hole behind the starter that keeps the crank from rotating backwards (that can be used with a 3/8" extension you already have anyway) REALLY impressed me on Volvo engineering!

Tracy

 

Good job!

 

Great tutorial!
Best I have seen so far with such great background information.
How comes the engine (under disassembly) happens to be some clean and dry without a greasy spot on it?
I am interested in understanding the cooling system for my 850 GLT, 96.
Would you have any tutorial on how it works. I think I am seeing some issues with my expansion tank and the hoses.
Thanks,
Jmmxc
Volvo GLT, 1996
140000 miles
(estimate my odometer stopped working 2 yrs ago)

 

Thanks for the compliments! I wrote in the introduction that most of the pictures I used were of the clean / reassembling side of this repair, since I was more patient, had cleaner hands, and had a better understanding of what pictures I needed. If anyone just "has to" see some of the dirty actual disassembly pics, let me know (particularly which areas) and I can find some of them (there aren't as many) and post them.

As far as the cooling system, I have nothing prepared, but may be able to piece together something out of the present pics I took.

Tracy

 

OK thanks looking forward to it.
jmmxc

 

To keep this thread relevant to the topic, I posted the URL for the info you wanted in a new thread. Hope it helps!

https://volvoforums.com/forum/showth...465#post233465

 

thank you for this write up! approximately how long did this job take you to do? i understand that everyone's skill set is different so there is clearly a standard deviation.

thanks!

 

It took around 50 hours for everything, having to put up tools and get them back out (no real shelter), in near-100 temperatures, and cleaning everything immaculately. I think I could do it in more like 30 hours if given better conditions, workplace, etc. ...plus I am OCD about everything being perfect when doing a repair.

 

I have a 98 s70 non turbo and like to use a turbo engine w/same size but i like to keep it non turbo. is there anyway it can be done

 

You'll have to do some searching to verify this, but I believe the answer is No. For the effort and $ to make the swap, it'd be easier to find a turbo'd car. I also believe the engine on a turbo has thicker walls to handle the extra pressure, so it'd be hard to upgrade a NA without fear of damage.

 

A great job and a real gift to all Volvo 850 owners. it's in My Favorites as of this moment. Thanks

 

great detail, have not cranked yet due to other pending work but wanted to follow up on how the Permatex on the head gasket worked, any leaks? Everyone i talked to had a different opinion about using a sealer or dry.

 

The Permatex has worked fine I guess, as it has not leaked or anything since. There was a funny smell the first time it warmed up from the Permatex that was on virtually every gasket heating up and cooking. It is a really good product (along with it's counterpart I mention in the tutorial) and I plan to use it on every gasket application it will fit from now on. I was told by a guy who is the second generation owner of a local NAPA parts store that this Permatex was something good to use. I have gotten a lot of advice from him on a lot of projects, and I have yet to see him be "wrong" on anything he has told me. He's the kind of guy that, if someone is buying one part, can tell you exactly what "little thing" you're also going to need (with an, "If you don't use it, bring it back" in case you're in doubt).

I understand how some folks might feel that "any" little thing sprayed on the HG would be a bad thing (that was my train of thought at first). But this stuff makes a tacky, metallic, pliable film, and once the head bolts are tightened down and the car is heated up the first time or two (with "stretched" bolts still somewhat tightening) I feel it is good insurance to fill any tiny imperfections that were not visible even with the flat edge. I mean, the machined surface of my head was not mirror smooth when I got it from the machine shop anyway (and I have been told that there has to be some tiny amount of texture to "bite" the HG and keep it from possibly moving when the head bolts are tightened).

It has worked for me. I trust it and the guy who recommended it. I will continue to use it. HTH

Tracy

 

EXCELLENT! I'm reading this numerous times. Maybe on my next timing job, I can do this myself instead of paying almost $600 for them NOT to do the water pump and tensioner!

Thanks mang.

 

The vehicle has an image as the 1996 Volvo 850 Turbo have a turbo, there may be some things a little 'different. But this is still useful to you and allow you to run this fix. a small amount of leakage of the coolant oil tank of the coolant, without a prominent place in drips, belching exhaust comes coolant tank.