new plugs in and took it for a drive.

Lifters have quieted down....but only to reveal another noise.

check vid. 1st i revved the motor in park. then rev it alittle in drive with brake on.

also, I did see how it performed. It does build boost according to me boost gauge...but there is little power gain when it does. thoughts?

v850t.avi - YouTube

the check engine light came back on, but my buddy has my reader right now. Ill look up the codes later.

 

I won't try to call exactly what that is...but I know an internal engine noise that is out of sync with RPM is not good.

 

Man, I wouldn't put that car in boost for weeks. Drive it a few days and see how it sounds/acts then. Don't stress it for a few days.

 

you really think that noise could go away if I drive it gently for awhile?

what if it is a bearing thats gone? wouldnt driving it make the problem worse?

Im worried about the boost issue. The car makes boost. I have had it upto 4psi...and it comes on at about the right rpms. But it doesnt seem to add power. Its almost like there is boost pressue in the intake (enought to send info to my gauage) but there is still a leak so that it doesnt force the air into the cylinders.

I may take it to a shop and get their opinon. Just see what they say about the sounds it makes.

If I put the front on ramps...is there any way I can inspect the turbo for damage?

 

If only I owned one of those "magically let you know everything thats going on inside your engine" tools. Sadly, they are just to expensive for me to afford

 

It is hard to hear the noise exactly. Maybe turn the throttle from under the hood and take a video.
To me it kind of sounds like a turbo on a drag car. But that might be my PC speakers.

 

ok, ill make another vid.
right now the car has a cherry bomb turbo muffler. sounds like crap. the stock muffler will go back on when I get a chance to do so.
1st I tried a thrush muffler....that was nearly as loud as having no muffler at all. the cherry bomb is not as loud, but at certain RPMs had a "drone" sound which I hate.
Sad part is, that short drive in which I ran with no oil was to test the sound of the new muffler. Now im going go back to the stock one.

The obx systems sound really nice. If I had $400 to spend that would be the way to go. I was trying to get a nice sound for under $50, and it didnt happen.

 

here is another vid, this time under the hood. does sound different from this point.
v850t2.avi - YouTube

I just finished installing some LED daytime running lights (like the newer volvos have)
I figure if I put on some parts to make the car look better, then in return she will stop fighting me so much

 

Does it sound like it's coming from the turbo?

I'd spin the turbo with compressed air to see if you can replicate the noise.

 

Tomorrow or thursday Im gonna get the car up on some ramps and remove the intake hose on the turbo and check for play.
If I find there is, I think this kit I found is right for my car:
Turbo Rebuild Kit ISUZU 4BD1T TD04HL-15G 49189-005XX | eBay
If you guys could confirm thats the right turbo rebuild for my car that would be great. For $60 its almost worth it to do even if the turbo doesnt seem bad! Compared to the cost of a new, or even used turbo.

 

Why do you need ramps? Every hose is accessible from up top.

 

Whatever it is, i would not drive it until you fix it. Use a stethoscope to figure out exactly where it's coming from and go from there.

 

id need ramps to get under the car...to remove the air intake pipe to the turbo to check for play in it. I dont think I can do that from up top. and the car's to dang low for me to slide under.

I am fresh out of stethoscopes It is difficult to figure out just where the noise is from. But then it could very well be more than 1 part making noise. The turbo could have play and there could be a bad bearing inside the motor as well.

Im really kicking myself for fridays mistake.

I honestly wonder if I should just start looking for a replacement motor. Tho its not like I even have all the tools to do a swap on my own

 

Man, I would drive it, what do you have to loose. You're likely going to have to get a replacement motor or at least get a rebuilt head. I think the noise it up top and sounds like there is a socket bouncing around in there. A rebuilt head is not going to cost any more than a replacement motor.

 

"sounds like there is a socket bouncing around in there"

What socket do you mean? If the problem is in the head then wouldnt it be wise to pull the head? I mean if its a few parts that need replacing and I can do it without pulling the motor from the car then I would give it a try.

Also, if I drop the oil pan, will I be able to see the crackshaft/rod bearings?

I found a 2 850 turbos under $800 on Clist last night (ones and old listing tho)
1 had a front end crash. Said it still runs/drives. under 120k on it. If I could get a car like that for $500 it would be tempting. But as I have said before...a complete motor swap is beyond my abilitys (both in tools and experience)

The other was a 97 turbo wagon. Ad said 214k, and that it is losing antifreeze but that he cant find a leak and its not in the oil. I emailed him and asked for pics and more info. He wants $800...but who knows he may take $500. I figure a antifreeze leak is WAY easier to fix than the engine in my wagon.

 

Both of them would likely take $400 - $500.

A socket, like you droped a 3/4" 12mm socket in the oil fill hole.

I guess you can take the valve cover off and try to fix something in the cam train, I just would not know where to start or how to do any of that stuff. I guess you could get 20 lifters and try replacing all of them, put it back together and see what happens. Not sure if you can change valve seals from up top or not.

 

lol, i thought you meant an engine part....not a socket tool.

I dont recall droping anything in the oil filler cap, but then I also drained my oil while meaning to drain my trans...

Driving the car "as is" I can do. I dont need the car more than 2-4 days a week and only for short trips. But I wanted a "utility" vehicle that I could also tune and make look cool. Doesnt matter how cool the outside looks if your engine ticks, taps and makes terrible noises.
Plus I did like having the power.

I wish there was an easy way to by-pass the turbo. then I could run the engine to see if it still makes noise. I was thinking if I took of the wastegate actuator arm and opened the wastegate that that would keep it from spining (or not much anyway)
That way I could rev the motor alittle and if it still makes noise then the problem is in the motor and not the turbo. Could that work? I already want to get under there to remove the turbo air intake to see if the turbo has play, so I could try both tests while there.
I have seen used turbos for under $200 (stock ones) And Im pretty sure I can replace it myself, tho it is stinking tight back there. I feel more comfortable replacing the turbo then opening up the motor.

 

im taking the car to a garage tomorrow to have them check it out.
Its a garage i used to use, but stopped when they cost me $150 for a $5 repair. The put my car on a computer and said I needed a coolant temp sensor. The car would not stay idling when you had your foot on the brake when in gear. any other time it idled fine. I couldnt figure how a coolant temp sensor would fix that, but hey, im not a mechanic. I paid $150 for the repair and got 10 feet down the road and it stalled! I took it home and found a small tear in the air intake tubing AFTER the MAF. Unmetered air! Only enough to effect the motor at idle with a load on it. $5 used pipe from a junk yard fixed it.

However, they are the only local garage that will work on my volvo (rebuild the top or full rebuild that is) I figure I should get a mechanics opinion and at least hear the price quotes for rebuilds before i try and tear into the motor myself.

 

I don't mean to drive it forever like that, just a week or two to see if it clears up or not.

 

Gotcha.

Oh, I noticed something new today. at least I think its new.

When the car is in park...my vacume is at 16-17psi (lower than it used to be I think) and when I first give it some throttle the vacume goes upto 20-21psi...then drops back down and decreases as the rpms increase.
This does not happen when the car is in gear...only when in park.

Is that odd? Should the vacume psi increase for briefly when giving it alittle throttle in park?

The car is down on power, but I do wonder how much of that may be the ecu detecting misfire and thus running the motor rich. I need to get my obd II reader back from my buddy to read the codes again, incase there are any new ones.