I am rebuilding my Volvo engine for 500+ hp applications, I am getting H-beam forged connecting rods from ebay, and i was wondering if they come with rod bearings, or if i have to use new stock rod bearings ? Also, i do need to get my crankshaft resurfaced, Correct ? and if i do, will i need larger rod bearings ? Also, do i need to get pistons from the same manufacturer, or can i get forged pistons for the engine anywhere, and have them fit right on the con rods ?

Thanks,
Predxen.

 

If you're asking all these questions, I'd STRONGLY suggest you have someone assemble the bottom end for you. Have them get the proper rod bearings and install them on the connecting rods and crankshaft. And yes, you can get pistons anywhere, as long as the wrist pins fit the connecting rods and are the right compression for your application. if you're unsure of that, ask whoever is building your engine. If you want that much power, you're going to need to be pretty exact on your setup.

 

I am rebuilding my Volvo engine for 500+ hp applications, I am getting H-beam forged connecting rods from ebay, and i was wondering if they come with rod bearings

I'm not trying to be pissy but you need to read the ad. If you're buying them off Ebay how is anyone here to know what you found there and what they include in the purchase. If they are the Cxracing Volvo 850 H Beam Connecting Rods Bolts 139 5mm Rod Length | eBay then the ad says it's the connecting rods and bolts only.

Also, i do need to get my crankshaft resurfaced, Correct ?

If you're going to try and pump out 500+ horses from a 2.3L then yes everything you touch should be blueprinted to factory specs or better. If the crank needs grinding then you need to install the appropriate oversized mains and or connecting rod bearings.

Also, do i need to get pistons from the same manufacturer, or can i get forged pistons for the engine anywhere, and have them fit right on the con rods ?

You can source your parts from any supplier you can find that carries or makes parts for the 2.3 5cyl but there aren't that many of them.

You might also try posting on volvospeed This is more for daily driver stuff and at 500HP you're squarely into the "racing" category.

 

I'm sorry, but you're trying to build a 500+ hp car and you don't know any of these things?


Good luck, because I honestly don't think you have any idea of what it takes to get 500hp out of this car, if it's even doable. I think you're in way over your head. What turbo are you going to run? What size injectors? Obviously at 500hp none of the factory ones will work. You'll most likely need a standalone EMS. Tubular exhaust manifold. Custom plenum intake manifold. custom cams. etc.

 

1000cc Injectors, Garret GT35R turbo, Megasquirt III, Walbro fuel pump, E85, Port/Polish, bigger valves, Super pro turbo exhaust manifold with external wastegate, Wiesco forged pistons 8.5:1 compression ratio, Sachs racing clutch, and so on and so forth, i know what it takes, and i know i can figure it out.

 

Sounds like you do, I stand corrected. But I still think 500hp is a huge stretch. Might want to consider getting the block sleeved if you're going all out.


Also, if you're going to want help with this, this forum probably isn't the best source and I would check out Volvospeed.com. LOTS more larger builds there.

 

Walbro pump is ok but for 500+ you had better fabricate a fuel tank installation with two pumps in parallel to make sure you feed those injectors without fail and go lean (boom). The rubber fuel line you need is special and built for submersion so don't cheap out and use the regular stuff over the counter. Gates P/Ns 27093 for 1' of 5/16 or 27084 for 3/8".


With enough money you can do almost anything. You have to remember "we" are working off the knee jerk impression you're younger, less experienced with vehicles and that kind of goes hand in hand with not having a lot of $$$ at your disposal. Your questions do show a large hole in your basic knowledge but if you do enough reading and get enough help or just hire stuff out it's truly possible to pull 500+ and have a semi-reliable engine. Reliability comes from painfull attention to detail in the spec'ing, machining and assembly of the components and in your case finding the correct mix of components. I've read of guys running 500+ but they are either full mechanics or owners of shops that specialize in Volvos.
But it gets real expensive, real fast. You'll likely have to have the engine sleeved and that I think is the biggest $$$ hurdle. That and finding someone who can do it properly.

I'm sure someone else has more money into theirs but Boxpin seems to be the guy with the most done to an engine around here that I know of so if you're looking for advice, I'd cozy up to him. He's even had a few things frozen and I'd definitely recommend that in your case.
These are the guys that do my stuff but I'm in MN. Still, it gives you some ideas what to look for if you haven't yet. Diversified Cryogenics Home

Just so you don't think I don't know what I'm talking about one of my other cars is a 454CI, 350TH chevy equipped 83 RX7. So yes, with the money, talent and time you can do pretty much anything.

 

Cracked block start at around 450 so you will definitely need to sleeve the block.

Start putting pennies in the piggy bank.

 

I found some sleeves.

Darton Cylinder Sleeves, 2.3 - 2.5L 5 Cylinder Engines - ViVA Performance

I know all pf this is going to cost a pretty penny, but i am willing to spend 8,000-10,000. As i have said in another post, im 18, have a full time job, and am leaving to join the air force in about a year, or as long as it takes to build this volvo. I know i am inexperienced, but with enough help, and dedication, i hope to pull this off.

 

What do you think $$$ you have in your engine presently ??

 

Honestly I dont know. Just thinking of the higher dollar stuff, 4 tunes, 3 turbos, 3 manual trans, the meth system, rebuild, rods, injectors, 6 mufflers, gauges, fmic, ignition system, gazillion spark plugs and tons of little things....the list just goes on and on.

 

is this car for racing?
500hp for the street is nuts and a waste if you ask me.
Ive seen a 300hp FWD 850 and even that HP is nearly impossible to put to the ground well with street tires.

I didnt think anyone has really done a 500hp 850 (other than purpose built race cars)

 

There are 500+ HP Volvos out there but the ones I've come across on line are overseas. It can be done but it's not really a daily driver and the people doing it are usually master mechanics or own the shop and it's the demo to get people to drool and "wan a bee" for their own 850.

B5234T5, H-Beams, ported, N/A cams, Cyro'ed, R-Mani w/20G, Meth injected, 3" exhaust, elec cutout, catless, M56L w/Quaife and R-Clutch (Cyro'ed), FMIC, Snabb intake & hoses & Poly, HKS Blow-off, ARD Black, Greens, ARD pulley, Bilstein shocks, H&R springs, IPD sways

I wasn't thinking of what ALL you spent along with oil changes more an idea of what it would cost to do the engine you have now if you were going to take a stock 850 and copy your present modifications.
Very interested in your new 1/4 mile stats when you get them.

 

Ive got a list of what i am doing:

1. Sachs racing clutch.
2. Forged Connecting Rods
3. Forged Pistons.
4. Holset HX40 Super Turbocharger.
5. 2000 cc/min injectors.
6. High flow 90PSI Fuel pump.
7. Tubular Exhaust Manifold with external Wastegate.
8. Big bore intake manifold.
9. Gaskets/
10. Cryo Treating
11. Cast iron Cylinder Sleeves.
12. About 3 grand in machine work.(port/polish, Bigger valves ETC.)


It will end up costing me about $10,000 Or about 3/4 of my yearly income. Over the next year i will be forging a 500+Hp volvo S70. I am putting the engine in an S70, because its not going to be a wagon for one, and it comes with a manual. Wish me luck =)

 

You must be doing some reading of something since you've revised your list with new parts and took my idea of adding the two fuel pumps.


After seeing how you got kicked around on Volvospeed I see why you posted here.
Building A 500+Hp Volvo S70 - Page 2 - Performance Modifications - Volvospeed Forums - Page 2

 

Actually i posted here First, if you look at the dates.

And to update everyone, i have found 4 98 S70 T5M's The closest one is a 5 hour drive, the furthest is a 12 hour drive. But i like the one that is the furthest =( It only took me 4 hours on craigslist.

 

Just my 2 cents but why $380 Ebay rods when your looking to get about 200 HP/ Liter out of an engine designed for roughly half that?
Sounds like your trying to "put lipstick on a pig".
Also, Even with 500HP our cars are not exactly going to be leaving everyone at traffic lights. I admire your persistence with this goal as well as your entering into the service of our country but maybe (can believe I am saying this) your better off looking into a 300-350 HP Jap car?

 

Not Ebay rods.

Forged Connecting Rods, 850, S/V/C 70 - ViVA Performance

And i dont want a rice burner. I want a Euro Ride.

And its only 100hp, Liter. =)

 

Number one ... you want to build a 500 horsepower S70 and you don't have the car yet.

Everyone but you sees a problem there.

Recommendation: Get the car and then repost in the 70Series section (Volvo V70 - Volvo Forums - Volvo Enthusiasts Forum) and you're much more likely to be taken seriously. The real HP guys over on Volvospeed are comparing your wish list to one on building a spaceship. And IMHO they are the guys that if you get a car, and if you ever start on a build they would be the ones you would need to earn their respect and glean their knowledge.

Number two ... if you want to build a 500 horsepower S70 then the math says that is a little more than 200HP per liter unless you're going to use a 2.5L. The 2.3 already makes about 100HP per liter stock.

Number three: It's not a build until you have something to build.

Honestly, right now most of us think you're just wasting our time and have no clue how the various components on your wish list function. That and like one gentleman pointed out you haven't even touched on how to get that power through the transmission and to the ground. Reinforcing the frame so you don't twist it and being able to stop it.

 

Sorry, i was thinking liter was a cylinder, Blonde moment.

And you guys really think i am just listing parts, that i have no idea the function of ? .....i am appalled.

1. Sachs racing clutch. - Better clutch = no clutch slip

2. Forged Connecting Rods - stronger crankshaft connecting rods, to resist rod bending.

3. Forged Pistons. - because i don't want Sunday (holy) pistons

4. Holset HX40 Super Turbocharger @ around 35 PSI. - big turbo = more boost. although more lag.

5. 2000 cc/min injectors. - probably a bit big, but they inject fuel into the intake manifold.

6. High flow 90PSI Fuel pump. - more boost needs more fuel, or detonation will occur. and larger injectors need more fuel, and fuel pressure to function.

7. Tubular Exhaust Manifold with external wastegate. - external wastegates are better at power handling, and are better against boost creep/boost oscillation ETC, and an aftermarket exhaust manifold will flow more exhaust gasses, thus decreasing spool time.

8. Big bore intake manifold. - n/a intake manifold, port+polish + 740 throttle plate

9. Gaskets. - gaskets

10. Cryo Treating - cryo treating

11. Cast iron Cylinder Sleeves. - more boost pressure = need stronger cylinder walls.

12. About 3 grand in machine work.(port/polish, Bigger valves ETC.) - port + polish + bigger valves = more flow, which will increase horsepower, and decrease spool time.

I may also want to add water/meth injection at a later date, but as of right now, i have enough on my hands. and yes i know what water/meth does. it injects a water/methanol mixture into the intake which cools intake air temperatures, as well as highly resists the chance of detonation.

And as for hooking up, a gripper diff, as recommended over the Quife, and some crap tires to smoke.

And i am going to need to help, i can guarantee it, i wont be able to do this by myself. But with the help of forums, friends, and the phone, im sure i can make this work. BTW i am still looking for a 1998 S70T5R, that is around Michigan, because i don't want to have to fly over to South Dakota, to pick up the car i want.