thanks matty, l am very unlucky, am up here in new york.l really appreciate that you would offer this to me.600 bucks for lifter job is kind of high.l was very skeptical about the price and decided to bring it up on this forums.l would be soo much happy if l get a write up on how to do it.my only problem might be how to time the camshaft before taking off the timing belt because l have never worked on my timing belt.actually l will be on vacation next week from my job and l plan to work on the lifters that would be from the 7 to the 13 of next month.l would really apprciate it if l get a write up that week.thank you

 

I don't understand why people lock the cams up before they take the cam cover off? If you pull the cams out of the head, they will have to be set-up all over again, correct? I glanced at Tracy's head job and in one pic I see the cams strapped to the cover, and another pic I see them lying freely in the head (not secure). So, I'm not sure what's going on but I'll tear into his directions tomorrow. I'm about to pull the head on our S70 GLT Monday.

 

thanks RSPI.thank you very much.can you please keep me updated when you take off the cylinder head?so that l would know what to look for when taking off the timing belt.thank you

 

and also matt do you have the part numbers for the seals.much appreciated

 

Fronts
Volvo Engine Camshaft Seal (960 850 C70 S70 V70 S90 V90) - 052-4007 | FCP Euro
Rears
Volvo Engine Camshaft Seal Rear - CRP 9443310 | FCP Euro

No problem, we are doing his valve seals next sunday. We will be doing the write up and as soon as it is finalized Ill post it..


I never have pinned the cams to the v-cover

 

thank you very much.l might as well go ahead and order my lifters and get it primed.

 

It's not so much that you need too. But there are a couple of reasons why you may want too. For instance. Buy locking up the cams, it makes for a cleaner removal of the VC. For instance if you weren't diligent in removing or breaking free the seals, the cams might stick to the VC and then fall off midway through it's removal. Crashing down on the top of the head. Other reasons are, if you don't intend on dip cleaning the VC, (like tracy did) reassembly is all that quicker, because you don't have to mess with the cams. (since they stay attached to the VC) So everything stays in time. Thats where the debate on whether the special tools are necessary or not. IMHO, you really don't need any of the special tools. (trust me I own them) Now do they make things a little easier? Absolutely. But out of all of them, the only one I found to be essential was the one that locks the Crank, if you are pulling the whole head. The one that I find to be the biggest waste, is undoubtably the two that keep the VC tight against the head for reassembly. That being said, even if the cams are pulled off once the VC is removed. The 2 cam locking tools will return the cams to the precise alignment. Which is a hell of a lot easier than placing them on top of the head, and then trying to fit the VC back on. Now the most PITA part of this whole fandango, is the cleaning of the old sealant. Which is why I'm sure tracy opted to have his VC dip cleaned. Should one not want to go the same route, I would strongly suggest using some type of sealant remover. Also go to PF Changs and steal a bunch of their plastic chopsticks, and break them in 2-3 inch pieces, and hunker down for a couple hours of tedious scraping. Now as to the sealant. (I am not going to get in to a debate about this So some of you purists can save your breath) The dealership in my area wanted like $60 bucks for the crap. And yeah you can get it online for $35. I got mine from Napa for $15 (It was red, just like the OEM stuff) and there was not a single problem with it. A roller and a tray will run you $1.19 @ lowes.

 

matt do l need just two seals above when l take off the cylinder head off?

 

2 of each
5 spark plug rings
and chemical sealer if your just doing the lifters, if your pulling the head thats a different story

 

So there is a tool that I should get to lock the crank?

I was wondering about that head / valve cover sealant. The stealer in my area is the most expensive in the country. They charge $143 for labor and $112 for trunk struts, $68 for 850 keys. I noticed that there was no sealant in my hg kit from iPd so I'll likely have to get something quick. I'm going to pull that head in the morning.

I also think I'll have to get a 8 or 12 point socket.

 

what is a chemical sealer.how does it look like?

 

never mind matt l got it.l have that sealer.thanks

 

Sorry RSPI, I should have been more specific. You need to use an Anaerobic sealant. Like I said before, you can buy it @ NAPA for like $10-$15. Also, like I said before, when I did it, I bought a small foam roller @ lowes. The packing it comes in is a pan. Just like a painters pan where it has a ramp and grooves to spread out the sealant and remove the excess. If you run in to any questions or snags, let me know, and I'll be glad to help you. If you want you can PM me, and I'll give you my #, since it's often easier to talk one through something on the phone than it is to swap posts back and forth.

 

To lock the crank during disassembly, you can just use an 3/8 extension bar. During reassembly, you will have to find another way of locking it. Buy either making a wedge like Tracy did, using the tool, or coming up with another solution. Depending on your time frame for reassembly, I could lend you mine. But it may take a few days to get to you, since Independence Day is on Wednesday. You will also need an angle gauge when re-torquing the head bolts. If you feel as though you need the tool, I can lend you that as well. Or Autozone sells them for like $10-$15 or so.

 

you guys make the job sound harder than it really is.

 

Amen to that. LOL Not saying that the job should not be respected but man, some of this stuff will overwhelm most.

I pulled the head yesterday and hopefully I will get to put it back together tomorrow. I didn't lock the cams to the top of the head with the special tool. Didn't see the purpose of that if the cams were going to be pulled from it to be cleaned so I just jerked the top off, pulled to cams off and tossed them in the grass until I'm ready to put them back in at which time I'll brush them off with the broom I use to sweep off the sidewalk.

 

Man, thanks for the info and the offer on the loan tools. I started to ask Tracy to barrow a few tools from him but figured "man, this guy has done enough with his instructions", didn't want to impose. Besides, after reading these post and seeing some of his instructions, I was so afraid I went straight and got married. Didn't really look over the instructions until the 9th hour (a few hours before I had to tear the head out). Yes, timing was best yesterday. LOL

As for the compass gauge... Tracy said that it needed to be used as the third torque, 130 degrees. That's between 90 degrees and 180 degrees, about 1/2 way. I think I could get close to that. If you guys think 10 degrees from one bolt to another will make a difference I think my daughter will have to spring for one. (Heck, that may be why the stupid head gasket is leaking now, it looks less than 5 years old and we have had the car for 3 years).

 

Officially unsubscribing to this thread.

 

Sorry to read that ^, the help is needed and appreciated.

My head is at the shop and will cost $390 to get it back. It was "severly warped" to 12,000th's I was told. They believe they can straighten it out for me so I had to take the head cover with some bolt so them, along with the cams. I'm starting to understand why labor is so much on this job.

Now I have learned, from reading MVS that I need to make a "draw down" tool to put the head back together. I know there is light at the end of this tunnel somewhere. I guess I should have read the entire set of instructions that Tracy put together for us.

 

this fella don't care for me much. You are very knowledgeable about some things (book smart) it seems, but not sure of the real world hands on -- the two are entirely different most of the time.

Thats why I say, use manuals only for pictures, and specs -- in fact just rip all the other pages out they are just about useless.