Replaced a radiator on a 1996 Volvo 850 R. It is turbo so it has the extra oil cooler lines. Should be the same for all Volvo 850, S70, and V70, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998.

 

Good info, thanks!

I recently watched FCP's video of the same process, was very similar


Couple questions

1) Radiator hoses - appears there are 3 that a guy might be concerned about - upper, lower and expansion tank hoses. FCP gets $90 for all 3 as 'genuine' parts. How long do these typically last before they need replacement?

2) What brand lower hose do people typically use? Volvo? Aftermarket? I know from other cars in the past, some aftermarket hoses only fit 'somewhat close', which can lead to fitment problems, rubbing, etc.

3) Are there any brands of radiators that are better than others? Obviously, OEM Volvo is 'best', but I see rockauto has a few, from $95-170, and RadiatorExpress has one with a lifetime warranty for $140. When compared to $325 for an OEM radiator, the alternatives are tempting. The Nissen radiator FCP sells has some pretty ugly reviews, and at the cost of the oil and transmission cooler line connectors alone, it makes me think that buying OEM might be the best choice. Thoughts?

I just ordered a replacement expansion tank and cap for my 850, and am on the original radiator. On my other vehicles, an original radiator did not last as long as this one, so in many ways, I feel like I might be on borrowed time. Obviously, I'd rather replace the hoses in my driveway when I have time, versus getting stuck somewhere and having to pay someone to do it.

 

1. I think these radiators last about 12 years on average. They start to leak and you need to plan replacement ASAP. VOLVO would be the best choice but try to buy from a reputable Volvo parts supplier and you should be fine. Bottom line, get what will help you sleep at night. I have heard of a few nightmares of radiators mixing fluids but that is rare and can be avoided by buying through the right suppliers. Companies like Nissas and Barh have been in the business for years and have a reputation to keep. They should be good for several years.

2. I think hoses should be replaced every 10 years. Other than that, they show signs of age, wear, and seepage. Seen 2 cars from people that know me on the side of the road this week with split coolant hoses, neither were radiator hoses. Change all of them with OEM or some other quality brand. Again, a good vendor should shield you from the junk.

I guess I covered 3 with 1.

I did see that FCP is supplying a good library of Videos now. Even getting some from customers. I didn't see it until after I decided to record mine. Glad they are contributing.

 

Good info, thanks.

The only Volvo hose that is expensive, really, is the lower, at $50.

I rechecked, both expansion tank hoses plus both radiator hoses are $110 for 'genuine' Volvo. $80 for 3 genuine Volvo, and 1 aftermarket. I think I'll go the genuine path, will help me sleep a little better at night

With a 'neglected' project car, there always seem to be projects that need to be done... and said projects of course have to be prioritized.

I just spent $250 at FCP and various other sources.. I'm thinking July will be plug wires, rotor and cap, and radiator hoses. I checked my invoice, and new plugs were put in a few months ago, but the wires are original.

And I'll hope the radiator holds out for another couple months

 

Im feeling slightly more confident that I can do this myself. I JUST bought 96' 850. I drove it maybe 20 miles when grey smoke, engine light came on. The car sat for a while before I purchased it. I am seriously hoping the radiator is all that is immediately wrong with this car, so I can at least have a little time to get a repair list going.. I feel like im in triage mod. ROBERT thanks for this video I plan to watch it a million times over the next couple of days

 

usually the radiators split down the side seam where the fins meet the side caps. If you refill the car should run normally - otherwise you may have other issues - failed water pump, stuck thermostat, head gasket etc. If it does turn out just to be due to loss of coolant from the radiator, make sure you also replace your thermostat and the overflow tank (pressure) cap as part of the job.

 

Coolant is RUNNING out of the car-, however could also involve water pump given the location of a leak more towards the back area... and Ive got to check b/c there is an oil leak and Im praying it isnt a rear main seal... im afraid based on location it is..and im also worried about head gasket.. im having a friends dad, a mechanic who owns 2 volvos, come over to look at and help me replace radiator. He's going to go over the areas with me and then I will decide how to proceed...

 

I don't know if you need help with this, but I just mention it because you said the engine light came on and smoke went up. There are quite a number of lights on that dashboard, and it helps to know exactly how they work. The way that they work determines the information they can give you.

There is a a"service" light that doesn't mean anything. It just lights up 5000 miles after you reset it. It goes out after 2 minutes.

The "check engine" light is one that the computer turns on. So that one tells you the computer has a message for you.

There is one for low coolant level, and if that one works it can really save your bacon. These cars will not tolerate overheating. That is how must of them get into the junkyard, probably. Low coolant.

There is one for the electrical system. However, I am not sure how good of an indication that really is. The way it works, if the alternator's voltage regulator turns on and starts operating, that event cuts this light off. It doesn't know if the battery is good or not. A lot of people attribute wisdom to this light that it doesn't have.

There is one for oil pressure. All it knows is what the oil pressure sensor tells it "okay" or "not okay". It's extremely low tech. If it comes on you need to stop right then.

One strange feature of volvos is that they go into "bulb check" mode when the ignition is on rather than during starting. They have to have some indication of when to go out. So they stay in bulb check until the alternator gets up to normal voltage. So sometimes, if you have low voltage, you get all the lights instead of the battery light. This is not very clear.

There area lot more that aren't directly engine related, and I am sure you are familiar with those. I apologize if you already knew all this.

 

THANK you! I always like to explain things as if the person knows nothing and then go from the ground up- so thanks DEFINTELY radiator. And without the radiator in place I cant figure out where this oil leak is coming from b/c I cant really run it for long... I JUST bought the car a week ago and less than 24 hours busted radiator. I dont know if I should suck it up.. but honestly I dont think I can do some of these repairs myself-- like if its a head gasket- no way.Again thanks!

 

Radiator replacement went great- only one little glitchy part the hose clips from the transmission line.. seem to be too short. but IDK why.
Got it up working only to discover--- BLOWN HEAD GASKET- which is WAY above my skill set

 

An engine swap would be easier, but still not easy. that is if you are interested. What part of the world are you in?