I always go to the local firestone for alignments. I pay $189 for a lifetime alignment - realigning is always free for as long as i own the car.

 

If you seen my last set of tires you would think I was running them low. The gas door says 36, 38 is close to that. My other wheels would loose pressure all the time. I would check them and they'd be down in the 20's. Doesn't take much to get down that far when you only have 3 quarts of air in there to start with. You loose a cup of air and you're down 5 psi.

I am starting to wonder if my tire damage was from them constantly being under pressure. I started to get get nitro in them because the claim that keeps air pressure better.

I guess I should just have it aligned just to make sure I have a chance. The guy is going to do it for $35 for me.

 

well worth the $35, little insurance for those new tires considering you can have 1-4 hundred worth of tires on each axle. Ours go to a local indie alignemnt shop after new tires or every 10k or so, $59 front, $69 4 wheel, but he will usually check the rear and if they are not out only charges for front.

 

Here they usually charge $59 front, $39 rear or $79 all four. I'm getting nickled and dimed to death right now.

 

Well, I'm getting a little use to the new tires. I may have lost all of my feelings so it probably doesn't matter.

A few minutes ago I was driving in the heavy rain/storms going through Arkansas and wow, these tires handle real well on wet roads. I don't think I hydroplaned once. Incredible!!! I just got them balanced but I think I will have to wait till next month to get them aligned.

 

Wasn't aware of that. That's a great deal. I will check them out, plus GoodYear shop.

 

Went to get the S70 aligned today (after strut swap) and they rejected me. Said my inner tie rod, outter tie rod and lower control arm are bad. Need to get that fixed first then aligned. Uuuurrrrrgggggggg!!! Not sure if I should try to take that stuff off the S70 or get new parts. If I get new parts, should I go with OEM or will after market at FCP be fine? Also, how hard are they to replace?

 

INSPECTION:
A- If any rubber boots are torn, that part need replacing.
B- If boots are not torn, you need to check for play, see this How To Inspect Your Car's Suspension

PARTS:
Brands: depends on how long you will keep the car, and budget. These are good, better and best. Genuine Volvo are "best". Moog for example are "better". FCP Aftermarket one are "good". They range from $ 15 (FCP) to $ 50 (Tasca Volvo). All tie rods are about the same price.

Inner and outer tie-rods should be replaced in pairs, i.e. both outer, and/or both inner. You would need to replace all four.

INSTALLATION
The plumber's wrench (Amazon.com: Ridgid 31020 Straight Pipe Wrench: Home Improvement) is your best friend to turn/unscrew the inner tie-rods, i.e. disconnect them from the steering rack. Inner ones are very hard to be removed from outer ones, and since you don't need them, you can cut them. You need to cut them to free the accordion boot (over the inner tie-rod), so you can re-use it. You will also need a tie-rod separator, kinda like a big salad fork.

If the ones on the donor pass your "Inspection", sure can use them, although that is more work.

 

I guess I'd better slow down and just get new parts for both sides and do it right. Might take a couple of months but I won't have a redo in 6. Thanks for the info. I'll post back if I decide to try it myself.