Modest suspension upgrade questions
My objective is to improve the handling of my stock 2011 T5 while maintaining the ride feel. I am going to replace the rear upper control arms with the adjustable type. I've been told that the front strut brace is a good upgrade, and that I should get a larger rear anti-sway bar.
I'm not planning to do track events or autocross the car, so what are the best options for the brace and the bar? I'm just looking for a modest improvement in handling, and I'm not interested in buying the latest, greatest product.
Thanks in advance.
Bruce Sharer
Raleigh, NC
Stock 2011 C30 T5
I'm not planning to do track events or autocross the car, so what are the best options for the brace and the bar? I'm just looking for a modest improvement in handling, and I'm not interested in buying the latest, greatest product.
Thanks in advance.
Bruce Sharer
Raleigh, NC
Stock 2011 C30 T5
In terms of price and performance payoffs for suspension mods, I'd suggest the following
a) upgrade wheels / tires
b) larger sway bars (rear in particular since most FWDs are set up for lots of understeer). Also do HD sway bar end links since the fatter bar will eat up OEM spec end links. See if IPD markets anything for your model.
c) upgrade to better shocks. Bilstein B6 are a good match for factory springs.
d) strut tower braces
At this point you'll want to get a high quality 4 point alignment done including checks on all geometry (not sure what is adjustable on your model but its useful to see if anything is out of spec - possibly due to a bend piece or worn bushings.
After that, you need to judge what kind of shape your bushings are in. I'd probably simply refresh with OEM/Genuine quality parts. I've done poly bushings in the past and found them noticeable (as in harsh) during every day driving and they are prone to clunking in cold weather (since the poly is not as compliant as rubber).
As to adjustable suspension components, I would not bother unless you decide to add lowering springs or step up to coilovers where dropping the car changes the factory alignment. To me, this opens a whole new set of costs and gets you less bang for the buck.
a) upgrade wheels / tires
b) larger sway bars (rear in particular since most FWDs are set up for lots of understeer). Also do HD sway bar end links since the fatter bar will eat up OEM spec end links. See if IPD markets anything for your model.
c) upgrade to better shocks. Bilstein B6 are a good match for factory springs.
d) strut tower braces
At this point you'll want to get a high quality 4 point alignment done including checks on all geometry (not sure what is adjustable on your model but its useful to see if anything is out of spec - possibly due to a bend piece or worn bushings.
After that, you need to judge what kind of shape your bushings are in. I'd probably simply refresh with OEM/Genuine quality parts. I've done poly bushings in the past and found them noticeable (as in harsh) during every day driving and they are prone to clunking in cold weather (since the poly is not as compliant as rubber).
As to adjustable suspension components, I would not bother unless you decide to add lowering springs or step up to coilovers where dropping the car changes the factory alignment. To me, this opens a whole new set of costs and gets you less bang for the buck.
More information and specifics: my car has 72k miles. I will keep the 17" stock wheels, but replace the tires with a set of high performance/all weather Continentals or Pirellis.The Volvo front strut tower brace appears to be sufficient and the least expensive. I'm not sure which rear sway bar to use. I would prefer just one step up from stock.
I had a 95 850T and went with IPD's sway bars and end links, and Bilsteins all around. Left everything else stock. Car rode more like a BMW/Mercedes afterwards. Cornered nice and flat and the shocks were a nice upgrade. IPD sells a 22mm rear bar for $289 plus they carry HD links. Note 22 mm is not overly fat. I think on my 850 the kit had a 25mm front and 22 mm rear.
We have a S40 (same car realy, also a T5 after around 80k (kilometers) changed all damper to Koni sport , they are adjutable and worked well , not sure what make stock is but the koni give a smoother ride , but good when driving hard , But Bilstein should also be good
Strut brace looks nice but generaly waste off money , unless you plan to increase power , and even then on my previous Alfa GT 3.2 when I upgraged to a 3.7 made no difference .
Mosttly manufactures get it spot on between comfort and handling so any major mod will result in a slight improvent to one but at a detriment to the other , obviosly very old cars (30 years+) will benifit much more that relatively new ones with suspension upgrade , if you are not going to do any racing keep it stock
Strut brace looks nice but generaly waste off money , unless you plan to increase power , and even then on my previous Alfa GT 3.2 when I upgraged to a 3.7 made no difference .
Mosttly manufactures get it spot on between comfort and handling so any major mod will result in a slight improvent to one but at a detriment to the other , obviosly very old cars (30 years+) will benifit much more that relatively new ones with suspension upgrade , if you are not going to do any racing keep it stock
Thanks for all the excellent suggestions. I have begun with new sway bar links and rear adjustable arms, along with new tires and an alignment. I'm seriously considering the IPD rear sway bar and possibly the front strut tower brace.
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