I have a '99 2.4L LPT with almost 140k on it. On Sunday my wife said while she was driving all the dash lights came on. I don't know if the car stalled or not, but once she got going again there was no problems. She drove it again later in the day no problem.

Then yesterday I drove to work fine, but on the way home after 40 minutes of freeway driving, I stopped at a store and could not start the car again. It clicked but did not turn over. I had someone jump it for me and drove home fine (about 5 minutes). Once I got home I could not start it again. So I replaced the battery, start it a couple times, and it started fine this morning. I drove it 40 miles to work this morning with no symptoms. But I suspect alternator has a problem as well because after I replaced the battery it tested about 12.4V across the battery terminals. Then with the headlight, fog light, rear defogger, radio turned on, I was reading 11.5V, not the 13-14V I was expecting.

So the question is if the alternator is the root of my problem and the battery is just a symptom. Old battery has a date of 9/06 and I'm assuming the alternator is original. I just got the car 6 months ago so I don't know all the history, but service records I have did not show any alternator work. If it is the alternator how was I able to drive it so long on battery alone. And can someone confirm the alternator is 120 amp, not the 80 or 100 most online shops show available for this model.

Thanks as usual.

 

I would say the Alt. is bad. You can buy the regulator only and replace it. 99% of the time it is only the regulator.

 

I was very concerned with any sudden stalling or otherwise being immobile if it was the alternator so I found an alternator in stock locally (only 1 after calling about 10 places) and swapped it out with help from old forum posts. Other than being quite a messy job with all sorts of fluids everywhere, I thought it was a straight forward job. Much easier to work on than my previous car. I was not happy to pay $300 for an alternator locally when I can pay about $200 online, but I have the peace of mind to know that the problem (hopefully) is solved. The local Swedish repair shop wanted $700 for the job. If it wasn't for the $110 core charge I would be tempted to keep the old alternator as a spare if I replace the regulator. The regulator is over $100 so add that to the core charge and I'd be better off buying a "new" reman. Voltage now reads 13.3V across the terminals, which is quite an improvement over the 11.8 with the old alt.

 

You are all good now congrats!!!

 

Tech im having issues with my alternator I think.

when i turn lights on, dash dimms momentarily, when i put the heated seat on the headlights dim momentarily. Is this just a regulator or will the alternator need to e replaced completely ?

cheers,

Pete

 

Most of the time a new regulator will fix that.

 

ok so ill need to check what alternator I have first before I go buying a regulator and then buy that specific part right ?

 

Yes you should be able to see it on the back of the Alt.

 

Thanks for the words of encouragement. I just thought of another question. What is the right way of swapping an alternator out that doesn't involve spilling fluids all over the place? I mean, so much coolant came out it was way more than what's in the hose. Seems like there was pressure forcing fluid out instead of just gravity.

 

do the 2000 and up C70s have a regulator? i think i may have the same problem but mild. the lights on the dash dim when the bass hits, and the rear defroster seems to be struggling in the morning. the windows roll up kinda slow too when rolling boht up at the same time.

 

Eater.............your hi-powered amps are probably pulling so much that you experience the drop in voltage.

r.

 

well Reg heres the thing, i don't have the correct head unit in the dash to use the dolby surround, so not only is the front amp not being used neither of the dash speakers aswell.

then the 100x4 amp that was in the trunk sh*t the bed, so i replaced it with a 60x4 amp from another volvo.

so, i'm i getting alot of voltage drop still?

i also experience what feels like the tranny drops a gear when cruising, but it doesn't feel mechanical.

i want to get a new optima battery and maybe add a .5 farat capacitor to the factory sound system.

 

I almost always leave the hose connected. The power steering pump I just move out of the way without disconnecting the lines as well.

Eater yes there is supposed to be a regulator that can be replaced.

 

Hmm, i couldn't get the alternator out w/o removing the coolant hose. It was just tight enough where the thickness of the hose after bending it would block the alternator unless i really yanked it. Then I would have the same problem putting back in. I didn't want to risk cracking the hose. Same with the P/S pump. The hose that went to the reservoir is an exact length so couldn't move it enough to allow room. At first after removing the P/S hose I put the pump down by the headlight. But eventually I had to put it on top of the intake. Oh well, it's done now and I hope to not have to do it again on this vehicle.

 

If you had unhooked the P/S bottle from the coolant bottle and then set the P/S bottom on top of the motor the pump would have moved over to the side.

 

My car just died with what looked to be a dead battery. The battery light started to flicker and then came on permanently. I cleaned the battery terminals but it wouldn't take a charge, so a new one went in. (I always try the cheapest fix first!) Still have the battery "idiot" light on the dash so I suspect the alternator or regulator. What test do I perform to determine if it's the alternator or the regulator?

 

You usually cannot. But I will tell you I have only ever tried and regulator and it did not work once out of about 50 regulators I have replaced.

 

I ordered a new regulator today off of Ebay, it was $56 delivered. The alternator listed @ $250+$100 core charge. My car is living up to its name...

 

well if you have a multimeter, just put the leads on the battery terminals and start the car, you should see 14v or more with every light on, a/c running etc.

 

As usual, Tech was right on the money! The new Ebay regulator came in today, so between the downpouring and lightning, it was installed. Pretty straight forward if you have removed the belt and/or the alternator. The battery idiot light went out and the car starts faster and runs stronger.

Alternator Removal: Undo the positive and/or negative cable(s). I removed the coolant bottle and power steering reservoir w/o undoing the hoses and placed them on top of the engine. 14 mil wrench to pop off the serpentine belt via the tensioner (better write down the belt route / diagram). 12 mil wrench to pull the 3 bolts off the power steering pump. Three 12 mil bolts hold the alternator, 1 on the pulley side, 2 in the front under the alternator. Loosened the 2 bolts to the a/c pump a bit to free the alternator. I didn't remove it, just pulled the power cable and plug to position it for regulator removal....which is secured w/ 3 phillip head screws. There was a fair bit of corrosion which I cleaned off of the contact points on the alt.

Pay no attention to the crow bar....lol