Timing Belt precautions!!
#1
Timing Belt precautions!!
I am writing this post because there has kind of been a little debate lately about timing belts and the service intervals.
[/align]The post is to show why the timing belt should really be changed at about 70,000 miles instead of 105,000 like Volvo says it should be.
[/align]Also Make sure you replace the tensioner and idler pulleys as well.
[/align]I have some pics of belts I have replaced at work on cars.
[/align]I have the belts from a few of the different models the milage will vary between 70K and 80K. You will see how the belts crack at that milage.
[/align]I would not trust the belts like that on my own car. That's why I am making this post so that everyone is informed about the belts and what can happen if they break.
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[/align]I know not everyone has the money always to get the job done. I know how it is I have 4 kids and very little money. But the point I am trying to make is that it is better to pay between $700.00 to $800.00 or so. Rather than having to Junk the car or pay over $3000.00 to get the head rebuilt or replaced. Or maybe even more to have a new motor installed.
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[/align]I have my own theory on why they go bad faster on the 1999 and newer cars than on the older cars.
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[/align]I think it is because of how the timing covers are made.
[/align]The older cars all the heat that gets to the timing belt only comes from the front of the motor.
[/align]
[/align]The 1999 and newer cars the timing cover are different because of having the VVT valve in the cam cover. That allows all the heat from the top of the motor to access the timing belt and add more heat to that area causing the belt to go bad faster.
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[/align]On the 1993 to 1998 5 cylinders and 1994 to 1998 6 cylinders the timing belts could last a lot long but I wouldn't trust them either.
[/align]But that's my theory.
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[/align]Now onto the pictures the first batch will be the timing belt pictures with the model,year and milage that they were changed.
[/align]Then the last batch of pictures will be an idler and tensioner pulley from a S80.(Not as bad as I wanted for an example picture but will work.
[/align]Then finally a picture of an engine that had the belt break.
[/align]
[/align]This way everyone has an Idea of the entire situation.
[/align]Then you can make your own decisions from here.
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[/align]The first belt is from a 2000 S80 with 72,623 miles
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[/align]The second belt is from a 2003 S40 with 73,746 miles
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[/align]The last one is from a 2001 V70 with 82,700 miles
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[/align]Here is a tensioner if you look closely in one spot you will see where grease started coming out of the bearing.
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[/align]Here is the idler same here both sides were spinning grease out.
[/align]
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[/align]If your serpentine belt looks like this replace it I have seen them break as well and get sucked into the engine and break the timing belt as well.
[/align]
[/align]
[/align]So there is my post the pics might not be the best but should help some.
[/align]
Sorry here is the pics of the head and block.
[/align]The post is to show why the timing belt should really be changed at about 70,000 miles instead of 105,000 like Volvo says it should be.
[/align]Also Make sure you replace the tensioner and idler pulleys as well.
[/align]I have some pics of belts I have replaced at work on cars.
[/align]I have the belts from a few of the different models the milage will vary between 70K and 80K. You will see how the belts crack at that milage.
[/align]I would not trust the belts like that on my own car. That's why I am making this post so that everyone is informed about the belts and what can happen if they break.
[/align]
[/align]I know not everyone has the money always to get the job done. I know how it is I have 4 kids and very little money. But the point I am trying to make is that it is better to pay between $700.00 to $800.00 or so. Rather than having to Junk the car or pay over $3000.00 to get the head rebuilt or replaced. Or maybe even more to have a new motor installed.
[/align]
[/align]I have my own theory on why they go bad faster on the 1999 and newer cars than on the older cars.
[/align]
[/align]I think it is because of how the timing covers are made.
[/align]The older cars all the heat that gets to the timing belt only comes from the front of the motor.
[/align]
[/align]The 1999 and newer cars the timing cover are different because of having the VVT valve in the cam cover. That allows all the heat from the top of the motor to access the timing belt and add more heat to that area causing the belt to go bad faster.
[/align]
[/align]On the 1993 to 1998 5 cylinders and 1994 to 1998 6 cylinders the timing belts could last a lot long but I wouldn't trust them either.
[/align]But that's my theory.
[/align]
[/align]Now onto the pictures the first batch will be the timing belt pictures with the model,year and milage that they were changed.
[/align]Then the last batch of pictures will be an idler and tensioner pulley from a S80.(Not as bad as I wanted for an example picture but will work.
[/align]Then finally a picture of an engine that had the belt break.
[/align]
[/align]This way everyone has an Idea of the entire situation.
[/align]Then you can make your own decisions from here.
[/align]
[/align]The first belt is from a 2000 S80 with 72,623 miles
[/align]
[/align]
[/align]The second belt is from a 2003 S40 with 73,746 miles
[/align]
[/align]
[/align]The last one is from a 2001 V70 with 82,700 miles
[/align]
[/align]
[/align]
[/align]Here is a tensioner if you look closely in one spot you will see where grease started coming out of the bearing.
[/align]
[/align]
[/align]Here is the idler same here both sides were spinning grease out.
[/align]
[/align]
[/align]If your serpentine belt looks like this replace it I have seen them break as well and get sucked into the engine and break the timing belt as well.
[/align]
[/align]
[/align]So there is my post the pics might not be the best but should help some.
[/align]
Sorry here is the pics of the head and block.
#2
RE: Timing Belt precautions!!
good post Tech, if we had more aftermarket support we could get some kevlar timing and serpentine belts made. that would extend the life alot and heat would be too much of a problem.
or for now maybe we can come up with some modification that will let the heat out on the newer models around that VVT cam actuator, without allowing rocks or alot of dirt in......maybe pin sized air holes in the timing cover in that right area?
or for now maybe we can come up with some modification that will let the heat out on the newer models around that VVT cam actuator, without allowing rocks or alot of dirt in......maybe pin sized air holes in the timing cover in that right area?
#6
#7
RE: Timing Belt precautions!!
You make a fine point TECH. BMW prior to providing free service on a new auto mandated that oil be changed at 3,500 miles...........now they go MORE than 7,500 miles. Prior brake fluid was to be changed EVERY two years to keep the vehicle in warranty.............now no mention is made. The rear end oil had to be changed annually................now no change necessary. Same as to the trans fluid. In other words, prior to providing free service, BMW mandated service often in order to keep the warranty in good standing. So...........Volvo on the other hand does not provide free service but rather tells the buyer of a new auto that service is not mandatory until thousands of miles................which takes the vehicle out of warranty. On my 02 c70 I change the trans fluid annually along with the brake fluid and the coolant. I had my timing belt and accessory belt changed at 40,000 miles. At 15,000 miles I change the brake pads. To heck with what the manufacturer reccomends..................performing service is mandatory and should be done often.............it is inexpensive insurance if one plans on keeping their auto.
r.
r.
#8
RE: Timing Belt precautions!!
Tech, should you give any consideration to doing a water pump during a timing belt change even if the pump shows no problems?
Also they are saying that I need cam shaft and oil pump seal during this job.
I have seen only a small amt. of oil on the top of the engine, absolutely no drops under it and no chg. in oil level during a 5000 interval.
Does this sound kosher?
Also they are saying that I need cam shaft and oil pump seal during this job.
I have seen only a small amt. of oil on the top of the engine, absolutely no drops under it and no chg. in oil level during a 5000 interval.
Does this sound kosher?
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#16
RE: Timing Belt precautions!!
excellent post-
I have a 1999 C70 convertible and the car over the past 3 years would stay garaged for 6 months and then driven for 6 months. this has been going on for the past 36 months. I just purchased the car in delray beach fla. and had it shippe dup to me. should this be an area of concern the car sitting and not driven for the 6 months in regarding to the timing belt? car has 82,000 original miles and had 69,000 in 2005 when they started doing this.
Thanks for the great post.
I have a 1999 C70 convertible and the car over the past 3 years would stay garaged for 6 months and then driven for 6 months. this has been going on for the past 36 months. I just purchased the car in delray beach fla. and had it shippe dup to me. should this be an area of concern the car sitting and not driven for the 6 months in regarding to the timing belt? car has 82,000 original miles and had 69,000 in 2005 when they started doing this.
Thanks for the great post.
#20
RE: Timing Belt precautions!!
Tech, you got my attention. Just bought my son a 1998 C70 2.3L with 81K miles. We are having a good time with plug/fluide/filter changes. I am going to assume we need to replace the timing belt and plan to replace tensioners and water pump. How do I tell if I have Automatic tensioners or manual and direct ignition. Can I find out with the vin #?