I guess im the idiot in all this, I hope you guys can learn from my mistake bought a 2000 s40 130000 with the check engine light on, which is very very bad don't recommend that to anyone, thats what i get for being a newb paid 2600$ and another 1800$ for fixing it at the volvo specialist who in the end found out that there was overheating and caused some wires to split.

Issues with car before the 1800$ fix:
Car didn't rev beyond 3000 rpm, and not go above 60 or 70
Horrible gas mileage
Car didn't start with the two hoses attached to the idle air control valve

RepairWhat they fixed)
Replace computer with reload software and fix the wire on the wire harness with all the work and hours the put in total cost me 1795.80

But this also didn't solve all the check engine light problems! They say i need to change the variable timing gear and seal. I guess i should also change the timing belt and water pump with tensioner. Which will run another 1800$, What do you guys think? Sell the damn car at a lost ? or try to fix it myself?

Anybody have any idea how to change the variable timing gear and seal? I found instructions online on how to change water pump, timing belt, tensioner but have no idea what the heck is the variable timing gear and seal. I even bought alldatadiy but no luck on that info.

Any help would be great guys thx

 

Question: Did you drive the car before you bought it?

 

yep it wrked

 

Changing the CVVT gear can be tricky without the right tools. The exhaust cam must be held in place as there is no keyed position for the CVVT gear in relation to the exhaust cam. This means you can mount the CVVT gear in any position on the cam. Now you can buy the special tool for $500 or make your own like I did. The UK version of the Haynes manual shows how to make one. I made one using scrap steel, cutting torch, welder, grinder, and a drill. I also had to remount the CVVT about 5 times until I got it right.

Only you can decide what is best for you. How tight is money? Do you have tools? Are you a hard-headed "can't let the car win" type like me? I can tell you exactly how to do it but you are still the one who must actually turn the wrenches or write the check.

 

Ok here's what you do, cut your losses, trash the car, collect insurance, profit.

Your going to dump cash into a car that is on life support only to hope maybe it will last you another couple years. Provided that there are no other big or even small issues with it. Honestly this isn't a toy you can tinker with it's serious stuff. True you can fix it it's not impossible. But realize that if you start you can't stop half way through or your going to regret it for a long time.

Right now you can part out or maybe even sell to a another guy in the same fashion that you bought. And Maybe get what youve already put into it.

Cause if you start this fix yourself and don't finsh it, then you'll have a car that doesn't run at all that no one will buy.

Really I just don't think it's worth it at all. But hey it's your car.

 

It sounds like the car wasn't really properly maintained.

 

Thx for the advice guys, Hudini you know how much its going to run me by and the long name of the part ?
I definitely have the time but only a limited amount of cash.
Thank you JondevieonS40 for the heads up I am going to try posting it on craigslist to see what kind of hits ill have, to weight in the decision. Worst comes to worst ill just bite the bullet and fix myself and just drive the crap out of it for a couple of year =T

 

Here is the link:
00 2000 Volvo S40 Camshaft Gear - Engine Mechanical - OES Genuine, Scan-Tech - PartsGeek

Here is mine. It began leaking from the little plunger looking thing. Caused the timing belt to slip and bent 8 exhaust valves.

 

Thx Hudini, I am going to order the parts and start on Monday, I'll keep you guys updated with pics and process, I am going to change the front mounts also with the whole timing belt she bang.

 

Make sure you hold the exhaust cam from moving and install the new cam gear in the same position the old cam gear. IIRC it takes about 80 LB/FT of torque to tighten the bolt on the CVVT to the cam. You absolutely must use some kind of tool to hold the cam from moving under that kind of torque. You will need to remove or shift several parts to get to the opposite end of the cam. Once the cam position sensor cover is removed you can remove the cam reluctor wheel to expose the end of the cam.

Here is a pic of the cam position sensor cover on the exhaust cam:

 

Sry for the late reply guys its been raining in san francisco for a good week and a half, thx for the pics Hudini I was finally able to pull off everything but the problem now is the timing on the camshaft the tool i used got loose and fell off, so it got shifted in the process now im just afraid of putting on the cam gear because the timing is off, any ideas on how to correct that ?

 

Did it move allot? If it simply slipped a bit just move the cam back where it was and reinstall the cam tool. You can move the cam backwards without hurting anything. The valve spring pressure will make the cam difficult to move but it will with enough persuasion.

Do you see the parting line where the cam cover meets the head? This will exactly line up with the cut in the cam. When making my cam holding tool I used a small straight edge made out of a wooden paint stir stick. I cut it down to fit in the small space and kept moving the cam until the cut and parting line were exactly even. The store bought cam tool will do this for you but you have to move the cam close enough for the tool to fit.