2000 Volvo S40 - Brake Rotor Replacement
#1
2000 Volvo S40 - Brake Rotor Replacement
Does anybody have experience removing the rotors from a 2000 S40? I removed the brake calipers, but the rotors don't budge (even with a rubber mallet). There's a large hex nut (about 1.5" diameter) in the middle. Does this need to be removed first?
#2
RE: 2000 Volvo S40 - Brake Rotor Replacement
The caliper is a pain to get off because to replace the pads you need a special tool to turn the calipers back in.Then there is 2 more screws that hold the caliper bracket to the rear axle assy.Yes those allen head screws have to be removed before the rotors will come off.
#3
RE: 2000 Volvo S40 - Brake Rotor Replacement
Thanks!
Couple of follow-ups. To turn the calipers back in, are you just referring to pushing the piston back out, or is there something else I'm missing?
Also, do you know what that huge hex nut on the front of the wheel assemble is for?
Thanks again.
Couple of follow-ups. To turn the calipers back in, are you just referring to pushing the piston back out, or is there something else I'm missing?
Also, do you know what that huge hex nut on the front of the wheel assemble is for?
Thanks again.
#4
RE: 2000 Volvo S40 - Brake Rotor Replacement
You need a special tool that turns the rear caliper piston and pushes it in at the same time.The front caliper piston you can just push in.The big hex nut on the front like in the center of the rotor is to hold the front axle into the hub assembly.You do not need to remove it to replace the rotors.
#5
#6
RE: 2000 Volvo S40 - Brake Rotor Replacement
Inside the caliper is a ratcheting assy. that the emergancy brake uses for self adjustment.Im not sure if you have a Harbor Freight store near you but some times they have a sale on the tool and it comes with about 4-5 diffrent adapters for diffrent cars.Most of the time if it is on sale it is like $20.00 for the tool.I think the Auto Parts stores sell them to but not sure how much from them.
#7
RE: 2000 Volvo S40 - Brake Rotor Replacement
Hi,
My S40 has the allen screw (only one) to remove the rotor. I did remove it and the rotor still doesn't budge. Could it be that it is just that stuck ?? I was also thinking that the axle nut (32mm?) was holding it on(even though I have never seen that in any other car I changed brakes on).
Also, a guy that serviced my brakes before said that I had had a frozen caliper, but I was able to turn the wheels freely. Does that mean he was just trying to sell me new calipers?
Any help would be greatly appreciated !! Thanks. Ron.
My S40 has the allen screw (only one) to remove the rotor. I did remove it and the rotor still doesn't budge. Could it be that it is just that stuck ?? I was also thinking that the axle nut (32mm?) was holding it on(even though I have never seen that in any other car I changed brakes on).
Also, a guy that serviced my brakes before said that I had had a frozen caliper, but I was able to turn the wheels freely. Does that mean he was just trying to sell me new calipers?
Any help would be greatly appreciated !! Thanks. Ron.
#8
#9
Thanks for the good tips
You all are awesome! I had to replace the rear brake pads and rotors on a 2000 Volvo S40 and I experienced the exact same things you are all talking about.
That special tool, for rotating and pushing in the rear caliper in at the same time, was a wonderful suggestion. I was able to rent one at my local auto parts for free. Made life a lot easier.
I'm convinced my rotors have never been changed on the rear. They were really stuck good. I banged on them and used a screw driver to pry them loose. But, having someone else mention the hex screw was nice because I've never seen that before. I had only one on each side, but it looked like there could have been 2 at one time. I was also a little puzzled at first because I couldn't understand why the rotors wouldn't come off even after removing the hex screw.
There are only 2 bolts that have to be removed for the rear pad replacement and an additional 2 for the rear rotor replacement, besides that little hex screw. I went ahead and purchased a new breaker bar to bust them all loose. Everything was great after that.
Anyway. These little tips got me through yesterday. Thanks to all of you.
That special tool, for rotating and pushing in the rear caliper in at the same time, was a wonderful suggestion. I was able to rent one at my local auto parts for free. Made life a lot easier.
I'm convinced my rotors have never been changed on the rear. They were really stuck good. I banged on them and used a screw driver to pry them loose. But, having someone else mention the hex screw was nice because I've never seen that before. I had only one on each side, but it looked like there could have been 2 at one time. I was also a little puzzled at first because I couldn't understand why the rotors wouldn't come off even after removing the hex screw.
There are only 2 bolts that have to be removed for the rear pad replacement and an additional 2 for the rear rotor replacement, besides that little hex screw. I went ahead and purchased a new breaker bar to bust them all loose. Everything was great after that.
Anyway. These little tips got me through yesterday. Thanks to all of you.
#10
#11
FYI. You can buy a nice caliper tool for $20. Well worth it, if you plan on doing your own brake work.
http://www.harborfreight.com/caliper...kes-40732.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/caliper...kes-40732.html
#12
FYI. You can buy a nice caliper tool for $20. Well worth it, if you plan on doing your own brake work.
http://www.harborfreight.com/caliper...kes-40732.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/caliper...kes-40732.html
#14
30mm socket
#15
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