2001 s40 turbo 1.9
#1
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Stop car to get gas pump high octane gas. Got back in car to start it and it would not start. Gauges showed it was hot but motor was not hot to the touch. About an hour later it started. Also the clock and mileage stays on when key is out of ignition . Could someone please help me figure what is going on. I bought this car used....I am so afraid it is a lemon and in Tennessee there is no lemon law. I have no choice but to fix it.
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#2
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I believe the clock and mileage on all the time is normal.
When you write the car is not starting do you mean the engine cranks but will not run? Or do you mean the engine would not even crank over? Those are separate issues and I just want to be clear. Having been in auto forums for a few years I've read these words being used both ways.
Not cranking (from the old days when cars had hand cranks) could mean the car is still in gear (maybe), bad ignition switch (not likely), bad starter (not likely), loose or corroded power cable (less likely), or bad battery (most likely).
Cranking but not running could be Idle Air Control (IAC) motor or Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) or fuel pump. If this is the case, try cranking the car with your foot holding the throttle just barely open. If it starts and runs with you controlling the rpms then it's looking like the IAC motor. If it takes 10+ seconds to start then it's likely the FPR. I've yet to hear of a failed fuel pump. Fingers crossed.
Where are you located in Tennessee? My house is in Knoxville. I'm currently working in China though.
When you write the car is not starting do you mean the engine cranks but will not run? Or do you mean the engine would not even crank over? Those are separate issues and I just want to be clear. Having been in auto forums for a few years I've read these words being used both ways.
Not cranking (from the old days when cars had hand cranks) could mean the car is still in gear (maybe), bad ignition switch (not likely), bad starter (not likely), loose or corroded power cable (less likely), or bad battery (most likely).
Cranking but not running could be Idle Air Control (IAC) motor or Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) or fuel pump. If this is the case, try cranking the car with your foot holding the throttle just barely open. If it starts and runs with you controlling the rpms then it's looking like the IAC motor. If it takes 10+ seconds to start then it's likely the FPR. I've yet to hear of a failed fuel pump. Fingers crossed.
Where are you located in Tennessee? My house is in Knoxville. I'm currently working in China though.
#3
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Carley -
I had a similar problem that took months to finally figure out. The key is the difference in the temperature reading on the gauges you see from inside the car and the actual engine temperature, and it starts after the car is cooled down.
Replace Both the thermostat and the temperature sensor (directly under the housing for the thermostat) at the same time with Only OEM - actually purchased from a Volvo dealer. I purchased 3 of each from various online supplies until I was able to get the local Volvo dealer to match - price + shipping - the online price.
I asked a local non-dealer Volvo mechanic and he had similar experiences until he used the Real Volvo parts. I don't know why, but non dealer parts failed in a couple of months. I was using a "pet friendly" antifreeze. I switched to Pentafrost antifreeze to see if it makes a difference. Sometimes it set a code, I think it was, P0117 or P0118, but am not sure. It has been working for a couple of years now.
Dave
I have a S40 2000, with 153K.
I had a similar problem that took months to finally figure out. The key is the difference in the temperature reading on the gauges you see from inside the car and the actual engine temperature, and it starts after the car is cooled down.
Replace Both the thermostat and the temperature sensor (directly under the housing for the thermostat) at the same time with Only OEM - actually purchased from a Volvo dealer. I purchased 3 of each from various online supplies until I was able to get the local Volvo dealer to match - price + shipping - the online price.
I asked a local non-dealer Volvo mechanic and he had similar experiences until he used the Real Volvo parts. I don't know why, but non dealer parts failed in a couple of months. I was using a "pet friendly" antifreeze. I switched to Pentafrost antifreeze to see if it makes a difference. Sometimes it set a code, I think it was, P0117 or P0118, but am not sure. It has been working for a couple of years now.
Dave
I have a S40 2000, with 153K.
#7
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I had the same issue with my 2000, actually hasve had the problem with both my s40's, 3x's now, once I got the car started, it would rev high and take off like a rocket if I out in in gear,LOL, for me, all 3x's, it was the temp sensor , I had to change that and the thermostat all at the same time. If you have any mechanical ability, it is actually very easy to do, just make sure the gasket for the thermo is seated properly or you'll have a blowout(was in a rush and found out the hard way the first time LOL)
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01-02-2008 06:46 AM