I recently bought a 2004 S40 LSE that has the check engine light on. I put a scan tool on it and it gives me the 0017 trouble code which is crankshaft-camshaft position sensor. I have changed both sensors and cleared the codes again. I can start the car and let it run, no check engine light comes on, but when I turn it off and then start it back up the light comes back on after about 45 seconds. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

This is the 1.9L turbo version, yes? If so, I would bet first on the VVT solenoid. When this one fails or gets clogged the camshaft will not advance or retard as commanded by the ECM. This is the first lowest cost option. Replacement is fast because the solenoid is located on top of the engine and held by 4 bolts.



The other possibility is the VVT gear on the exhaust cam has failed. This one is a bit more expensive due to the labor and special tool involved. Again, the exhaust cam does not advance or retard but this time it's because the internal plumbing on the VVT gear has failed. You need a cam holder tool to replace the VVT gear because the VVT can be mounted in any position relative to the cam. Therefore you hold the cams in place then replace the gear to a known fixed position.

 

It does have the 1.9ltr in it. I've been able to locate the gear for 125.00 but as far as the valve, no luck. I will call the parts house and see if they might be able to get it. If not, do you have a link where I can find it?

 

Here it is at FCP Euro
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...FQmIfgodpvAKcg

I couldn't find it at Tasca Volvo. There are a bunch of other places though.
https://www.google.com/?gfe_rd=cr&gw...0+VVT+solenoid

 

I done some research on the Internet on checking the vvt solenoid to see if it was good, and if I understand it right it's functioning. I reset the check engine light and drove it for 83.6 miles and the check engine light didn't come on the whole time i was driving it. When I shut the car off then started it back up, the light came back on. Is there a set amount on how far the car has to been driven before the computer resets?

 

It will set the check engine light every 2 on/off cycles.

 

Ok, so what should be the next course of action? I've changed both crank and cam sensors and checked the vvt solenoid for functionality. I have Haynes repair manual coming in over the next day or so, but I'm beginning to wonder about this car.

 

They can be a bear sometimes. Damn frustrating even. It's either the sensors, wiring between them, solenoid, or VVT gear. Normally it's the solenoid but I've had to replace my VVT gear twice. Once for a leak and once for failure. If you have checked the VVT solenoid and it's good then you are looking at replacing the VVT gear IMHO. The good thing is by replacing the VVT gear you are getting a new o-ring on the little plunger which means no leaks for another 100k miles or so. My first VVT gear leaked hot oil on the timing belt which eventually caused a belt slip which trashed the exhaust valves. Fun times.

 

How hard is it to change the gear? The entire belt side is soaked in oil. I thought it might have been from the oil cap as it has several large cracks in it.

 

Not overly difficult with normal tools. The gotcha is the need for a cam holder tool. Now these are available on ebay at very reasonable cost, maybe $50-75 depending on source. Much better than the $400 and only a single source only a few years ago.

Cam holder tool:


An impact wrench is also helpful. The nut holding the dampner is fairly stout. A little careful heat placement and it will normally break loose. I made a holder tool out of flat bar from the hardware store to aid in keeping the crank stationary. There isn't an inspection port to wedge a screw driver into the flywheel. Some have claimed replacement of the belt without loosening the dampner. I just removed it to make the crank timing mark clear.

My crank holder tool to remove the dampner nut.


It's not unusual for the cam seal to leak and cause oil to flow down the face of the engine. The one you should be alarmed about is when oil is actually soaking the timing belt. With the top outer timing belt cover removed a leaking VVT gear will sling oil up onto the bottom of the hood. It will also drip all over the ground. Much more than a few drops from a leaky cam seal.

Leaky VVT gear:


Reason it leaks. O-ring is crapola.

 

I don't know if it will help in the aid of diagnosing anything definite, but I'll try to get a picture of the driveside of the engine to show the saturated area. It'll be later on today before I can get it and post it.