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Hi Everyone,
I have a 2009 Volvo S40- Car is new to me.
VIN: YV1MS382692459404
Manufacturer: Volvo Geely Sweden Volvo Geely Sweden
Engine: 2.4L In-Line B5244S4
Trim 718-2.4i
Engine 1617-5 Cyl 2.4 L GAS
250,000 KM
I'm having a P0171 Code - which is Bank 1 Sensor 1 with a Lean Condition.
I Cleared the Code and it Popped up Immediately just sitting in Park and giving the engine a Rev Up.
There can be many factors to a P0171 Code...
I Don't see any broken lines or hear any Hissing.
I cannot Assign any Specific Problems- but I think the Fuel Mileage could be Better.
There may be a Small Exhaust Leak- the mechanic says it's not very big if there is one and it is most likely Not the cause for the Code - But recommended an Upstream O2 Sensor.
There's a bit of a Shutter/Shimmy when Accelerating - But I think this may be a Lower Ball Joint/ Control Arm which the Mechanic - Pointed Out to be Replaced, and I'll be Addressing that, as soon as the Parts arrive: https://www.ebay.com/itm/165994767165
I'm going to give this a try.. but I'd like to replace some parts like the Intake Gaskets, if I'm going to take the time to remove some things. Anyone know the Part Numbers or have a Link for the Parts?
I See a Variety of Gaskets which say they fit my car on eBay... Though I am quite Sceptical that some of them are even used on my car?!
Additionally, if this isn't the problem,
Most of the parts I see for the O2 Sensors, say they are for B5244S7 engine- MINE IS B5244S4.- is this something that I need to be concerned about for this particular part?
The O2 Sensors say they are for Upstream and Downstream - so I'm wondering if these are the Correct O2 Sensors for my engine, and if the Upstream and Downstream are the same? I understand the part fits more than one vehicle and perhaps it's an upstream on one vehicle - or Downstream on another.
The Fuel Sensor is also a Consideration.
Fuel Injectors: are also Confusing to figure out with the Fitment Charts.
Some show a set of 4 - Well, I ask them how they can be for my car - when I have a 5 Cylinder? Then they say they aren't sure! https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...889%21im%21%21
Has Anyone came across any -OBD CODES - and what have you done to fix them?
Would anyone have any links for Parts/Part Numbers they could share for this Vehicle.
I want to add, that I'm in Canada if that makes any difference in the Manufacturing- and Parts Availability.
when it comes to parts, I tend to start with a dealer web store (I happen to use Tasca who has the best prices but there are others). Volvo friendly stores like FCP, IPD USA, EEuro Parts can all help in finding the correct part number. You may need to check against your VIN or give them a call or email for any questions, When it comes to parts, you have three choices - genuine Volvo (guaranteed fit), OEM (top quality but you may find more than one version which can be confusing) and after market. I tend to choice based on what part I need. Something like a MAF - Id go genuine Volvo as even using OEM Bosch can have a fitment issue. For suspension parts with rubber, I go OEM. For bulk parts that are not sensitive to fitment issues after market will get the job done.
As to your OBD Codes question, this is only telling you what the computer is seeing. Best way to proceed is to research the code to see what the code is telling you. For example, a P0171 is a lean mixture code. You'd want to know if this is a real time code or an averaging code and how it gets set (ie the front O2 sensor's lamda signal can't get the ECU to adjust enough to bring the signal into the expected range). So drilling down into what can cause a lean condition - #1 suspect is intake air leaks. You can do a visual check for vacuum lines, spray some carb cleaner or other flamable around to see what gets sucked in and bumps the idle etc but if that doesn't show anything, you may need to do a smoke test. The ECT sensor should be on your list as there really isn't a code to tell you the sensor is off. Simple test is to measure its resistance cold and hot using the 300/3000 rule. You can google for a temp sensor resistance chart to get precise numbers. BTW, yes an exhaust leak can throw off an o2 sensor. You could have an issue with the sensor but they fail two different ways - the heater element can short/open which will throw its own code, or the sensor can short/open which will throw a different code. Its possible the sensor can get contaminated but that usually points to something like the engine is consuming oil or coolant. Your exhaust leak can certainly throw off an O2 sensor which can combine with a small air leak to throw a code.
Most cars have two O2 sensors - some can have three or more (ie a V8 will have a bank A and a bank B sensor. Some of the 6s do this as welll). The upstream sensor refers to the sensor before the cat - which is also the sensor that provides the feedback to the ECU for fuel trim. the downstream sensor refers to the sensor after the cat. This signal is compared to the upstream sensor to determine whether the cat is doing its job (if its working it will consume any remaining O2 to catalyze any unburnt HCs). So for your lean condition only the upstream is in play.
My last comment is MAFs and O2 sensors are expensive parts and you don't want to replace just on a guess as that can get expensive. My suggested plan would be to 1) visually check for vacuum and intake air leaks including PCV system, hoses, intake tubes etc. this includes spraying around. 2) consider replacing the thermostat and engine coolant temp sensor. You should be doing the t-stat as a maintenance item and with that out of the way you'll find the temp sensor right below it. Should cost you $75 in parts plus a small amount of coolant (last time I did this I only lost about a cupful) 3) use a full feature OBD2 tool to capture run time data for things like the O2 sensor duty cycle. This can tell you if the sensor is slow to respond etc before you consider replacing for $175... I would also look into the exhaust leak - is it simply a gasket issue, or a crack in a header or a rusted flange etc? you may be able to JB Weld that closed as a temp fix (sorry no duct tape fix here...)
Thanks so very much mt6127 for all the great advise and information.
To update this a bit, I fixed the Exhaust Leak, which was a Flex Hose - Replacement.
The Garage had used an OBD Scanner and looked at the Codes and Ran the Car for Info.
This was a Second time they told me to Replace the O2 Sensor. I had ordered a Cheap O2 Sensor, but they sent me a Sensor with a Different Plug than they advertised. I think it was a Downstream - Instead of Upstream (the Outer
Plug Blades, were the Exact Opposite).
Still trying to sort that code out..
And yet 1 or 1 more; like the P0031- Heater Control Circuit B1S1 -...
One thing the mechanic did mention the 1st time he looked under the hood; he thought it might be leaking around the Oil Filter Area. Can't say that I've Seen Excessive Oil Loss (or "Puddles/ Wet Spots), but I only use the Care Occasionally.
I think I seen a YouTube Video where another said they had to Replace around the oil Filter ????
I had topped the Oil Up, and Erased the Codes - so we'll see what come up, again, and when.
2009 Volvo S40 2.4i - OBD Code P0171
