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broken water pump??

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Old 08-12-2011, 11:52 PM
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Default broken water pump??

I was driving last night when i just felt a weird pull of the car and my engone just stopped.

Here I was on the side of a very dark road in another state.

When the AAA flatbed came, we noticed that the whole antifreeze tank emptied under the car and the timig belt was loose.

The driver said that it looks like the water pump is gone and the safety mechanism releases the timignt belt so as to protect the engine from turning. Everything else works, no check engine light.

When I tried to turn the car on, the engine would not engage. So he said most likely, it's a faulty water pump.

Any pros out there can shed some light?
 
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Old 08-13-2011, 06:49 AM
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What year car?

There is no safety mechanism on the 2000-2004.5 S40's (or any other car I've ever heard of). Sadly when my tensioner pulley on the timing belt broke then the still moving pistons contacted the open exhaust valves. Then continued cranking with a now mis-timed engine caused 8 bent exhaust valves in total.

You need to have a compression check on the engine. If there is no compression then suspect the following. See the 2 shiny dents in the piston? Those match the edge of the 2 exhaust valves per cylinder.
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Old 08-13-2011, 07:34 AM
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It's a 2005 S40 2.4i

The engine once stopped would not start back up.

So what would make the timing belt come loose and the antifreeze tank to empty ?

I'm hoping there is no head damage. It was
 
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Old 08-13-2011, 03:07 PM
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The water pump is run off the timing belt. If the water pump suffered an internal failure that allowed the water pump pulley to move so much that the timing belt was no longer in tension? Just a guess based off your description. Hopefully it's something completely different and easy to fix.

Can I ask how you saw the timing belt was loose after it broke down? I'm asking just to make sure we are talking about the same part since the timing belt is covered by a plastic housing that must be removed to see that it's loose.
 
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Old 08-13-2011, 05:31 PM
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Ok heard from the service manager, they suspect at this point that i need to have the engine rebuilt or a new engine. But they havent openedthe engine yet to see the extent of damage so they are just speculating at this point. On Monday, their techs will spend about 3 hours on the car to get into the engine to see what the deal is.

I'm hoping for minimum damage.

Cost:

Rebuilt engine (depending on gravity) might cost more than just getting a remanufactured one but he estimated at $3000 for rebuilt

Another engine(from a junkyard) about $5000 total including labor

What do I do if I need an engine? Shop around?
 
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Old 08-13-2011, 05:33 PM
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Hudini, I took the plastic cover off and saw that the belt was really loose.

I'm wondering how by not opening the engine can the volvo service manager tell me i need a rebuilt or a new engine? He himself said we 'think' there is engine damage.
 
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Old 08-13-2011, 07:03 PM
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If I do need a new engine, do I specifically need one that's from a 2005 s40 2.4i?

Or there are other year S40's that are compatible?
 
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Old 08-13-2011, 08:15 PM
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I'm fairly new to the 2004.5 and up models. The one I rebuilt above was the 1.9 from 2001. From what I've read so far, the 2.4's are the same and the 2.5's are the same. I'm not sure how much of those two will interchange though. Basically, Volvo made these engines as "interference" engines meaning the piston will contact the valves if the timing belt is off. Now I've owned a couple of old 240's (1976 and 1986) and those were "non-interference" engines. If you broke a belt you replaced it and drove on, but we are not so lucky any more.

If you can, do not use the dealer. Their prices are about 100% higher than a reputable shop. In my area (Knoxville, TN) there is a Volvo junkyard and the owner will rebuild the head and fix the engine for half of what the dealer wants. Maybe you have someone like this in your area?

If it's simply some bent valves then you remove the head, replace the valves, seals, and gaskets and reassemble. You then buy a timing belt kit with belt, water pump, idler, and tensioner and install it. No need to remove or replace the engine unless you prefer that route and can afford it. Do not remove the CVVT hubs unless you have the special Volvo tool to hold the cams in place. Don't ask me how I know this one....
 
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Old 08-14-2011, 08:30 AM
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Here in Mass, most dealership charge $100/hr and reputable mechanics charge between 85 and 100/hr. Like you said, I have to find someone who is exoerienced to work on volvo's sincethey need sepcial tools.

I will look around and see what I find. Maybe someone around here could recommend someone. I'm in North eastern MA very close to the NH border and close to maine also.
 
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Old 08-15-2011, 08:10 AM
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u will need the same type of engine to go back, make sure the engine is a turbo or non-turbo, cuz if you put a turbo engine in you will end up alot of problems after. did u try to find any used engine??
 
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Old 08-15-2011, 08:54 AM
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Yes my Vin the the 38 one (6th and 7th digit on my vin). So the type of engine I have is the B5244S4.

I was chekcing online and found some 2007 with this type of engine, could it be compatible? Sorry for the dumb questions
 
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Old 08-15-2011, 10:06 AM
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I think as long as the engine# is the same, that should be a problem. but I always double check when I look @ the engine first before I pull the old out. especailly if there is any leak or crack.
 
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Old 08-15-2011, 12:24 PM
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Ok the dealership call me again(mind you they havent even opened the engine yet like they said they would for $400). The service manager says:

-Ok my prices were off and they are more. we can

a. For $650 open the engine and see what's wrong with it
b. Put a new water pump and a timing belt for $1300 and see if the engine works
c. Put an engine that we can get from a junkyard that has 93k miles on it for a total of $7000
d. One of our mechanic can buy your car from you for a few hundred bucks (he said that to me about 4 times which makes me think that i'm being screwed)

What do I do??
 
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Old 08-15-2011, 12:36 PM
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Did you check with a Volvo main dealer to give you a benchmark for prices?
 
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Old 08-15-2011, 08:34 PM
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The shame of it all is the price for parts is less than a $1000. The rest is labor and profit for the dealer. (plus taxes)

The dealer knows exactly what's wrong with your car. It's just that he is going to charge you the maximum amount he thinks you will pay. Are there no shops around you trust?
 
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:10 PM
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I contacted another volvo dealership in Maine who I have heard is very honest and the owner himself called me back and asked me what the deal was. When I tolf him about the prices and the other dealership being wishy washy, he was not surprised but said that the mechanics prob know exactly whats wrong with my car that why they offered to buy it from me like 4 times. And they are trying to see how much they can nail me for.

He asked me why hasn't the other dealer performed a cylinder leak test and used a probe ot peek in? When I called the other dealer in RI and started telling him that, he didn't know what to say. He gave me an excuse that the job is probably major( mind you they haven't even done any tests at all)

So I had the car towed to my house and then tomorrow I will have it brought to the dealership since it was already closed and gated fpor the night.

The dealer in Maine was flabbergasted when I told him that the other dealer told me that they could ust put another water pump and timing belt for $1300 and hope that the car starts.

Incredible

So my car is going to Maine tomorrow. The owner of the maine dealerrship was himself a volvo mechanic and he said he knows volvo's very well.
 
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