Hi, all. I've been a big fan of the S-series since the new ones came out, particularly the new 2004.5-on S40. I've located a high-mileage example (160k+), but it's in immaculate condition, with the interior and engine compartment at about 9.5/10. It shows a dealer timing belt change at 109k miles, and generally looks to have been owned by someone who took good care of it, and who probably put a lot of road miles on it (no door dings, etc.).

It's an automatic, but I can probably live with that (much prefer a stick, but they're hard to come by).

The things I did see when examining the vehicle:

1) There is an oil leak that seems to be coming from the middle/right side of the motor. It doesn't appear to be a major leak, but I can see that there has been some accumulation of oil on the splash shield.
2) It's throwing a P2407 code (Evap System Leak). Is this likely connected to the oil leak (I think I read that a PVC valve failure could cause an oil leak)
3) It's also throwing a P0420 code (catalytic converter bank 1 low efficiency). With most cars, this ends up being an O2 sensor rather than the cat itself. What's the smart money on the root cause?

I'm stoked about this car, even though it's a high mileage, cheap "road warrior"... I've got a very low-mileage 2003.5 BMW 330i ZHP that I hate to put big miles on, and will use the Volvo for an upcoming 6,000 mile road trip... LOVE those seats!

What else should I look out for?

 

Is the oil leak seen from above? Is it near the oil filter housing?

The evap code is likely a bad leak detection pump, but the car may need an ECM update to correct a problem we had with the ECM not compensating for wear in the pump.

And probably needs a cat. If the oxygen sensors were at fault, there would be codes for them. Unless there is an air leak in the exhaust, I'd bet on a cat.

Do a visual check of the front struts, they are common to leak

 

There's really no sign of the oil leak from above, and I mis-spoke when I said it was on the right side - it was on MY right side when I was facing the engine compartment, so the leak is on the left / driver's side of the engine. Sorry 'bout that...

If I end up with this car, I'm sure I'll be learning a LOT more about them, and look forward to participating in some of the tech discussions. Right now, I'm going to hope that the mechanics who claim to have never seen a catalytic converter actually fail are right, and that it's something simpler (or at least cheaper...). Of course, if I do end up with this car, I'll be sure to report back what the issues and fixes were.

 

This fixed my cat convertor code permanently:
Oxygen Sensor Spacer (CEL Boss)

 

Information removed.

 

Thanks for the input, folks. It's funny - I've seen posts by Volvo mechanics that say "it's never the cats", and now one that says "it's always the cats". Not quite sure how to process that, but I relish all the input I can get. Others have said bad plugs can trigger the same P0420 code, so I suppose a new set of plugs would be a cheap diagnostic tool (and hey, what used car doesn't need new plugs?).

My assumption on the spacer is that it gets the O2 sensor out of the exhaust flow, which would "trick it" into thinking the exhaust is cleaner than it really is. My only concern about this approach would be if that could also cause the engine to run unnecessarily rich, but I'm betting that would be more likely if the front O2 sensor was bad or mounted on a spacer (if that's not the case, I'd be glad to hear about it).

 

It won't run rich as the bottom O2 is not for adjusting fuel trims, only sensing the after-cat exhaust (top O2 is for fuel trim). And it's only as reliable as the O2 sensor and software that interprets the output. Some people have replaced the O2 and cat only to have the light stay on. Only by updating the software at the dealer ($$) did they get the check engine light to stay off. I just installed the spacer and bypassed all the headaches at one time.

 

Sadly, the car slipped through my fingers this afternoon at auction. I was the next to last bid, but it just went for a little more than I was comfortable paying for it (under the constraints of the auction, including the inability to actually drive it before buying it). So my search continues, but I am really (!) hoping to find essentially the same car elsewhere (a 2004.5+ S40, though I'd be even happier with a five-speed). If anyone reading this happens to have one or know where one is, and thinks it's a smokin' deal, drop me a line so I can use all this fresh S40 knowledge! ;-)

 

OK - I have a line on what looks to be a really nice 2001 V40, with an automatic. It's got nearly perfect leather interior, doesn't have a door ding on it, and has been serviced well since new. It does have almost 150,000 miles on it, though most of those are commuting road miles, based on the owner's home and work location alone. The asking price is $4000, which seems to be about 5-10% below kbb book values.

Assuming I don't find anything "odd", is there any reason I should NOT move forward with this? It's funny - I much prefer the 2004.5+ styling on the sedan, but think the older V40 looks better somehow (not that I'd mind a newer one, of course).

 

The 2000-2004 models need allot of TLC. My 2001 is constantly in need of something. As with any used car buy as new a model as you can afford. Anything over 10 years old will need constant care. If you don't mind doing your own work they will keep going for a long while. But you cannot let things go. My 2001 had a very noticeable oil leak that I did not address and it bit me with a slipped timing belt and bent valves. Up to you.

 

Hudini, I couldn't agree more with you. Fortunately, I'm a pretty competent wrench, and am not afraid of taking on pretty big jobs. My plan is to use this car for a looooong road trip, then for a summer visit with the grandkids, then to sell it (figuring I should be able to more or less break even on it, essentially "free rent"). I think this car is a pretty good deal (though it's a little like online dating - sometimes you show up and the supermodel you've been "dating" turns out to be a 300 pound, 60 year old truck driver). ;-)

 

Just my opinion, anything under 200,000 is not high mileage.

 

Update - just looked at the car, and it IS cleaner than probably 90% of 'em out there, but wasn't perfect. Here's the punchlist of items...

1) Had been painted front and rear, and to some extent on the fenders. It's nice enough paint, and there is no indication that there was any real damage, as the radiator header, fender supports, spare tire well and everything else I can see shows no sign of any prang. It'll buff out nicely. No accident info on the CarFax, either.

2) I could find no indication the timing belt had ever been changed, and the car will turn 150,000 on the way to the owner's home this afternoon.

3) There's some pretty serious pressure in the crankcase, based on the amount of oil splatter and vapor coming out of the oil fill spout with the cap off.

4) The tires are getting pretty bald, sadly.

My assumptions are that this means I need to a) replace that timing belt ASAP or sooner (!), and b) rebuild the PCV system.

Based on all this, I no longer think of this as a $4000 vehicle, though I have no doubt it WOULD be after the above work and a new set of tires are taken care of. I'd REALLY appreciate any feedback on what the collective wisdom on the Volvo universe thinks about what I should offer after taking all the above into consideration. And FYI, I'd do all my own wrench-twisting, but value my time at least a little. The owner doesn't seem to be a car guy, and obviously wasn't trying to hide anything. Thanks!

 

Looks like about $1500 in parts to get it road ready. Does it need brakes and rotors? The 2000-2004 have very soft steel rotors. Mine had deep grooves with less than 50k miles.

 

I didn't notice that the rotors or pads were particularly cooked - I guess I tend to not worry too much about that since the parts are (usually!) pretty cheap and the effort small. OTOH, I've never priced V/S-40 brake parts, so I guess I left myself open to some surprise. I did price "kits" to do the timing belt (including water pump, tensioner, idler pulley), and the PCV "system", and they came to under $700 (for Volvo parts). Tires would add $400 or so, so I offered the guy $3000, which I'm betting he won't take. But that would put me into the car for pretty much private party book price before I start calculating my labor. OTOH, it would then be the best maintained V40 at that price... all I can do is wait and see (and keep looking).

There's another '00 V40 that's very local to me - asking $3500, but with 175k miles, and the seller is no doubt a flipper (who probably bought the car at auction). Claims to have just changed the timing belt and "sensers", so I guess that's worth at least a look.

I keep tryin' to join the fraternity here! ;-)

 

I see that you have real Volvos in your stable. I also have a 940 with 240k mi. After having the S40 for 4 months, I honestly believe that there is absolutely no shared DNA between these two cars excepting maybe the seats. For instance, my 940 has been in the Upstate NY salt since 93, my S40 just had catestrophic failure - the lines corroded through - they were junk. 25 feet of new brake lines later... the 940 is solid and easy to work on, the s40 is tinny, hondaesque and a PITA to work on!

My 940 is one of the best most carefree cars I have ever had. My S40 with 120k has needed more work in 4 months than I put in over the last 3 years on the 940.

As I feel now, If I had to go cross country tomorrow, I'd take my wifes 940 and pay the extra gas.

As for the original post, I would run, I was looking at prices on s40s thinking about dumping mine. THey are all over the place for under 4K with less than 100k.

 

dobrosailor, I wish I was seeing lots of low-mileage S40s under $4k, but I'm not. I suspect that has a lot to do with the kind of things you're seeing on your northeastern car. Here in the desert southwest, we don't really worry about corrosion. My '96 Jeep has 220,000 miles on it, yet there's not a spot of rust on anything, and it has the original exhaust even! I guess that means the cars here carry a certain premium.

But I'll keep beating the bushes waiting for that perfect car to pop out (or the V40 owner to accept my lowball offer).

 

Just got back from examining a 2000 with 175k miles (asking $3500). Yikes. The paint was starting to fade, the trim looked like death, the front seats were coming apart badly, the sunroof cover and trim were trashed. The owner claimed to have just had the timing belt changed, but I saw no signs of that being done (and saw the remains of the dealer belt change at 115k, so I doubt this one needed it or had it done). It also shook like a by-the-hour hotel quarter-fed vibrating bed when it idled... oops.

I'd told the guy that I know he's a reseller, and to be straight with me. So I pull up, he comes out, shakes my hand and says "it's my girlfriend's car". Sigh...

So the search continues...