From the same dealer.

Parts :$534
Labor: $332.50 (3.95 hours)

Dealer charges $84/hr

So total $866

SO I once again called a volvo dealership here and got the prices dfor what I think he would need.

Water pump assembly: $150
Timing belt kit: $194

Total: $346

What else would he need that i might be missing?

 

That is still very expensive. IPD sells both for about $205 plus shipping. There are other places for even less if you don't mind aftermarket parts.

Might need a little anti-freeze if you don't reuse the old stuff. A little bit will spill as you remove the water pump even after draining the radiator.

You will need a tool for holding the engine from spinning while removing the nut from the crank. With 2 people you might be able to hold the flywheel while the other breaks the nut loose. The UK Haynes manual has a description of a home-made tool that worked for me.

 

Actually the nut doesnt have to be removed from the crank.The pulley should stay.There is a small metal cover which can be taken off held by two small screw.After its removal the belt can be slide off of the bottom with ease.The tensioner of course need to be loosened up to get some slack on the belt.
The dealer parts are way too high but the labor is about right tho it can be done in 2.5 hours by an expert who does this for the living but this is one job doesnt worth rushing it.If you can find the parts online for half of that then a mechanic who knows volvos you can save some money.
What year is your car as the PH1 tensioner and the belt lenght differs from the PH2 one.This you have to be certain.I was told that the difference only exist in the EU the US versions are all the same which is the 1st two.
The first two kit is for the PH2 the 3rd one looks like a PH1 kit..On this site you also can find the water pump.I would also replace the thermostat and the auxiliary belt as well.
Overnight AutoParts Catalog - 2001 Volvo S40 Timing Belt Kit

 

How do you see the timing mark on the crank gear if the pulley is left in place? I can understand if you make sure nothing moves but how do you know for certain unless you own the cam gear hold down tool?

 

So I get on the phone and asked the owner why his parts are $534 when I can buy the same parts (from the same plave that he buys them) for $369. And the place he buys them from even told me that he would get them way less than me buying them. They said if I paid $369, he will mostl like ly get them at about $300. So he marked up his price by $234..what a rip off for a guy who claims that he is fair.

He didnt want to break down his prices for me and he got pissed and said ok i want you to pay me cash when we are done (mind you this has always been a credit card deal). So I asked him why did he get pissed when I debated the price but he said he didnt get pissed becasue of the price. Yeah right.

I should report him to the BBB.

 

Cam gear locking tool is recommended but not needed.I dont see why would anyone with the right mind remove the crank pulley.VADIS doesnt call for its removal either.Once you locked the cam gears then loosened the tensioner you just slide the belt of nothing is moving.If for any reason you cant see the mark there just mark it up for yourself before taking the belt off.Remove the guard only save yourself some time and headache.

 

Ok now after having had the oil pan, timing belt and water pump changed, dealer call me today and say that car is throwing code 640A which translate to 'ECM 640A camshaft reset valve fault signal'

He said $500 to change it. $300 for the part and $200 labor

What else could cause this code?

 

See previous posts

 

Ok dealership called me and it's the VVT Actuator that needs to be changed. Owner referred to it as 'Sprocket'

Waht's a sprocket?

Cost $629 everthing included.

 

It sounds like this guys milking you like a cow. He's right you should just buy the parts yourself and find a mechanic who's familiar with your car. It sounds like he's just nit picking instead of actually trying to get your car running:

 

I just did this on my S40. Some moron tightened the crank pulley nut so hard my impact wrench could not even get it off so I took that plastic cover off from around the crank sprocket (two 10mm nuts hold it on). You can see the two notches on the crank sprocket without removing the crank pulley (these line up with big mark on the block). You don't need the tool to hold the camshaft pulleys but be careful when removing the belt the intake pulley tends to slip counter clockwise. Use a socket wrench on one of the nuts to hold it still while removing the belt. When you put the belt on use that same socket wrench on the same nut to turn the camshaft so you can pull the belt tight. Install the belt moving in a clockwise direction starting at the crankshaft. Slip the belt around the idler pulley at the very end. I bought my belt, tensioner, and idler pulley from FCP-Groten on eBay for $101 and the water pump (Hepu) from eEuroparts.com for $54. Takes me about two hours to do everything including flushing the cooling system.

 

Well dealership called me and they were getting a 640A code which he said according to their conclusion was being caused by the actuator (sprocket) thing. So i'm really hoping that the extra $629 that it will cost to fix this will be the end of it and I can have my car back.

 

I bought a Gates timing belt, water pump and gasket, tensioner and idler/roller online for a total of $184, and had all installed at a reputable independent shop for $262.50 labor. Less than $450 for the whole job.

Gotta love it! Comparing this to my previous vehicle, in which a timing belt replacement cost over $2000, and it looks like this car will be a DREAM to own for the next several years.