Couple of questions.
#1
Couple of questions.
Hello all,
I have got a couple of questions regarding my 1996 S40 2.01.
Last week i have, together with a friend, changed an engine on his S40 and the job was fairly easy. It's a major job but if you got all the required tools and manuals you are able to do it as a DIY'er.
However as i previously reported on the forum i have got some problems with my own car. The headgasket is blown and therefore i am very slowly loosing my coolant. In addition to this problem they have found some other issues during its yearly roadworthy test. Both the left and right hand outer CV joint gaiters are worn and need replacement. (F.Y.I. the car passed its test so i got a year to replace them). The left hand inner Cv joint gaiter is worn also and neeeds replacement. And to top it of it needs a new numberplate as the numbers are disfiguring.
My plan is to do all the jobs mentioned above at the same time. Now is my question to the people with some indept knowledge about these engines if it might be an option to remove the complete engine as you need to disconnect al major systems before carrying out the work above.
And than with the engine out of the car change all seals, piston rings etc. Basicly do an small engine overhaul. But at the moment i am not sure if its worthwile doing. The car is not using any oil at the moment so i assume that the piston rings are in fairly good shape.
Could someone tell me if it worth doing all this work on an engine which has run 93000 miles? Is there any history that some of the seals start to leak above a certain milage/age?
If i didn't need to change the headgasket and driveshaft gaiters i wouldn't bother with it. But with nearly everything disconnected its only a relatively small step to remove the engine and give it a good closer look. It would be a shame if i change the headgasket now and in a year time need to replace piston rings. I know you can't predict failures but there might be some common knowledge that some seals/parts fail after so many miles/years.
Any advice is welcome and thank you in advance.
FT.
P.S. Black Beauty, if you still read this forum could you please drop me a PM? Thanks.
I have got a couple of questions regarding my 1996 S40 2.01.
Last week i have, together with a friend, changed an engine on his S40 and the job was fairly easy. It's a major job but if you got all the required tools and manuals you are able to do it as a DIY'er.
However as i previously reported on the forum i have got some problems with my own car. The headgasket is blown and therefore i am very slowly loosing my coolant. In addition to this problem they have found some other issues during its yearly roadworthy test. Both the left and right hand outer CV joint gaiters are worn and need replacement. (F.Y.I. the car passed its test so i got a year to replace them). The left hand inner Cv joint gaiter is worn also and neeeds replacement. And to top it of it needs a new numberplate as the numbers are disfiguring.
My plan is to do all the jobs mentioned above at the same time. Now is my question to the people with some indept knowledge about these engines if it might be an option to remove the complete engine as you need to disconnect al major systems before carrying out the work above.
And than with the engine out of the car change all seals, piston rings etc. Basicly do an small engine overhaul. But at the moment i am not sure if its worthwile doing. The car is not using any oil at the moment so i assume that the piston rings are in fairly good shape.
Could someone tell me if it worth doing all this work on an engine which has run 93000 miles? Is there any history that some of the seals start to leak above a certain milage/age?
If i didn't need to change the headgasket and driveshaft gaiters i wouldn't bother with it. But with nearly everything disconnected its only a relatively small step to remove the engine and give it a good closer look. It would be a shame if i change the headgasket now and in a year time need to replace piston rings. I know you can't predict failures but there might be some common knowledge that some seals/parts fail after so many miles/years.
Any advice is welcome and thank you in advance.
FT.
P.S. Black Beauty, if you still read this forum could you please drop me a PM? Thanks.
#2
#3
RE: Couple of questions.
2007-S40-2.4I,
As i (and the car) are living in the UK, the KBB value is not that important to me. However we have something similar in the Uk and its called Parker. According to their site the car is more worth than a repair which is quoted at around $600,-.
However i am able to do this repair myself for around $250/300. But i would like to know if there are any other know issues with this model car that i need/can take a look at while half of the engine is apart.
FT
As i (and the car) are living in the UK, the KBB value is not that important to me. However we have something similar in the Uk and its called Parker. According to their site the car is more worth than a repair which is quoted at around $600,-.
However i am able to do this repair myself for around $250/300. But i would like to know if there are any other know issues with this model car that i need/can take a look at while half of the engine is apart.
FT
#5
RE: Couple of questions.
Cheers Tech,
That will save me a lot of work. Headgasket will be changed as soon as i find a workshop which can do the skimming for me. Had a couple of busy weeks with work so unable to do it any earlier.
Oh Tech, one more question. In the Haynes manual they say that you need a hydraulic press when changing the left hand driveshaft inner CV joint gaiter. Whats your opinion about this? Before i find myself with the half car apart and no hydraulic press.
ThanksFT
That will save me a lot of work. Headgasket will be changed as soon as i find a workshop which can do the skimming for me. Had a couple of busy weeks with work so unable to do it any earlier.
Oh Tech, one more question. In the Haynes manual they say that you need a hydraulic press when changing the left hand driveshaft inner CV joint gaiter. Whats your opinion about this? Before i find myself with the half car apart and no hydraulic press.
ThanksFT
#6
RE: Couple of questions.
Can you find a rebuilt axle?
If so then just replace the entire axle.
Most of the time it is alot easier that way.
No press needed for Axle replacement. Joint maybe never done one always just replaced the Axle is was easier and cheaper than the parts and labor to do it.
If so then just replace the entire axle.
Most of the time it is alot easier that way.
No press needed for Axle replacement. Joint maybe never done one always just replaced the Axle is was easier and cheaper than the parts and labor to do it.
#7
RE: Couple of questions.
Tech,
Haven't thought about that one. I have got some requests out at the moment but the results so far are not that good. For a CV joint kit which contains both inner and outer gaiters i pay around $90. But for a new driveshaft the quotes so far indicate a price starting at $170.
But i'll keep you informed when more quotes come in.
FT
Haven't thought about that one. I have got some requests out at the moment but the results so far are not that good. For a CV joint kit which contains both inner and outer gaiters i pay around $90. But for a new driveshaft the quotes so far indicate a price starting at $170.
But i'll keep you informed when more quotes come in.
FT
#8
#9
RE: Couple of questions.
Ah ok, that explains why you change the whole axle. As you can see in my earlier post the kits are not that expensive and they should contain everything you need i.e. seals, gaiters and grease.
As a point of interest. I have found out why you need a hydraulic press when changing the inner CV joint gaiter. Where the gaiter meets the axle it has a bearing. The gaiter is fastened on to this bearing by using a clip. Normally all kits contain a new bearing and expect you to change the bearing also. However if the bearing is in good working order you can just replace the gaiter without the use of a hydraulic press.
Unfortunately i also want to change the bearing but i am not in the possesion of a hydraulic press. But i have made a adapter which i can use on my vice. The adapter consists of a pipe which fits loosely over the driveshaft but presses against whole side of the bearing. With one side of the driveshaftsupported by a bracket which mounts onto the vice and the pipe supported by the other side of the vice. You can now close the vice and apply a constant and even pressure to the bearing till it slides in the correct position.
Haven't treid it yet but the Haynes manual cautions the use of a hammer and pipe because there is no constant and even pressure which can disturb the lip seal of the bearing.
FT
As a point of interest. I have found out why you need a hydraulic press when changing the inner CV joint gaiter. Where the gaiter meets the axle it has a bearing. The gaiter is fastened on to this bearing by using a clip. Normally all kits contain a new bearing and expect you to change the bearing also. However if the bearing is in good working order you can just replace the gaiter without the use of a hydraulic press.
Unfortunately i also want to change the bearing but i am not in the possesion of a hydraulic press. But i have made a adapter which i can use on my vice. The adapter consists of a pipe which fits loosely over the driveshaft but presses against whole side of the bearing. With one side of the driveshaftsupported by a bracket which mounts onto the vice and the pipe supported by the other side of the vice. You can now close the vice and apply a constant and even pressure to the bearing till it slides in the correct position.
Haven't treid it yet but the Haynes manual cautions the use of a hammer and pipe because there is no constant and even pressure which can disturb the lip seal of the bearing.
FT
#11
RE: Couple of questions.
The gaitor has been replaced last week. Fairly easy job with no suprises. It was a bit difficult to get the driveshaft out of the hub but that was expected as volvo use a compound on some of the cars. With the system describeb a few posts above it was easy to get the bearing of the driveshaft and fit a new one.
While the driveshaft was out of the car i also took the oppertunity to give it some new paint. I know nobody w'll see it but at least its in a good state now. Thanks for all your help and advice.
Cheers, FT
While the driveshaft was out of the car i also took the oppertunity to give it some new paint. I know nobody w'll see it but at least its in a good state now. Thanks for all your help and advice.
Cheers, FT
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