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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 11:09 PM
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newvolvogirl's Avatar
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Hi Everyone-

I'm new here. I have a 2001 S40. We have been having issues with the car.
It started with the car dying when you took the foot off the gas that happen Easter. We took it to O'Reilys and we had them pull the check engine codes and they determined it was a misfire from 1 and 4. So we bought spark plugs and new ignition coils. So, today when installed them, we noticed the spark plugs and the old ignition coils we noticed oil drenched on them.
Changing them did not work, we didn't think it would with the oil issue.
We took the car back up to O'Reily's and they read the codes again and the misfires were gone but we now have errors: P0107 and P0102.
The car is still drivable but we have to hold the gas while breaking.

So does anyone have any ideas on what we could try next?
 

Last edited by newvolvogirl; Apr 10, 2012 at 11:58 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 11:37 PM
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Hi newvolvo girl,. It may be MAF mass air flow sensor dirty or needs replacing. P0102. Very easy to do. Other code may be Manifold pressure low input. P0107. Take to engine diagnostic center. Find a reasonable priced one. Call 3 or 4 to be sure before you start spending to much to troubleshoot. I just changed my own MAF; better acceleration and CEL check engine light is off! Yea.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 12:38 PM
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Buy a new gasket for the oil cap too. Yours may be letting oil past it onto the top of the engine.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 05:03 PM
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We did buy new cap to be on the safe side.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 02:51 PM
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There are a couple of areas where oil gets on top of the engine under the beauty cover. First I need to ask if you checked the timing belt when you changed plugs and coils? There have been a rash of leaking CVVT gears (including me) where oil is being slung out from the gear but under the plastic cam cover.

Also, does the car take several seconds of cranking to start? Or is it a quick start but dies right after unless you hold your foot on the gas? Long cranking has been associated with a bad fuel pressure regulator. The other a bad Idle Air Control motor. On mine it had the misfire codes but not the MAF sensor or manifold pressure problem.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 05:24 PM
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We purchased the car used in 2011 with 135K miles. The gentlemen we bought the car from said the timing belt was replaced recently but we don't remember the mileage. We haven't checked the timing belt.

The car has to crank a few times, but when it does. it turns over quickly.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 11:11 PM
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I would look under the timing belt cover to see if oil is on the timing belt. It should be bone dry. If it has any oil on it then the source needs to be tracked down.

In your case I'd buy some MAF spray cleaner and clean it thoroughly. Then check for any broken hoses or loose connections. Next I'd erase the stored trouble codes. Now restart the car and see if the check engine light comes back on. I find it unusual that you have a misfire code one day, fix the plugs and coils, then have MAF and pressure codes. It's as if while repairing the misfire someone has left the MAF disconnected or a hose loose. Just a guess.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 11:30 PM
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We took out the MAP, and rinsed it well with water. We also took off the top of the air filter. The air filter and the MAF were clean.
We can start the car but we still have to press the gas. The car idled for awhile before it died, it also ran a little better than before.

I also read that the MAP goes bad and using non synthetic oil speeds up the process, which I'm guilty of.

I also found it strange that we had the misfires then we have the new codes.
 
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