just buy a new vvt - I too am happy to save a few $'s where I can but honestly for all the hassle required to take these parts out so that timing belt, etc can be serviced, just get a vvt from Tasca motors for $190 and be done with it. It would be a shame to go through all that work only to find out that the dumb o-ring doesn't work and then you have to consider replacing the timing belt again because oil got all over it...again.

I put a guide together on how to change the seals in case you are interested. Here's the link:

GUIDE: Replacing Cam Seals / Crank Seal / VVT Hub - Volvo Owners Club Forum

 

Really nice writeup man. I wish I had that when I did mine. Honestly the hardest part for me was getting everything out of the way for the cam lock tool. I was so worried that I would forget how to get it all back together again. Some advice for anyone doing this, take lots of pics and make notes of every step. You can then just follow your notes in reverse and save yourself some headaches.

I'll add a note about getting those seals out. Easiest way to do it is hammer a small hole in the face of the seal with a sheet metal or wood screw, then drive screw into it. Once the screw hits the metal behind the seal it will push it right out. And don't worry about marring the metal back there, its not a sealing surface.

 

After watching a detailed video on how to change the vvt gear, I want NOTHING to do with it. so if I'm going to pay someone to do that, He might as well put the timing belt at the same time.

 

Thanks for the comments. That's a good suggestion. In fact, funny that you mention the back metal surface...when I did the crank seal I put a ding in just that spot by mistake. I then spent the next 30min cursing and calling around because I thought I now needed a new oil pump...then I sat down and stared at the set-up until I had the same realization - the back surface is not part of the seal! Phew.

 

It's not that bad, really but it does take a day if you haven't done it before. Plus you need the $80 cam/crank locking tool unless you are super-keen and want to fabricate those. I'd happily do it for you for a modest fee if you lived anywhere near Toronto. After having dug into there three times now, I'm pretty sure I'm an expert. Good call on getting the belt/tensioner/idler done at the same time. I made the same call (eventually!).

Also - I think I know which video you watched and if it is that one, keep in mind that the V40 VVT gear does not spring back like the one in the video. You just slip it on, tighten the tensioner, and tighten the VVT as it sits. Much more straight forward.

 

I was quoted $1200 by my local indy, I think a little over 2k by a dealer. No way was I putting that much money into a 10+ year old car with over 100k miles on it. But after doing the job myself, I can see why they charge so much and I think the 1200 was a very fair offer. New VVT Gear, timing belt, water pump, idler, tensioner, all new seals plus the cam lock tool set me back about $375 + 2 nerve racking days of my life

 

If we are talking that kind of money, I will have to re-think this thing.

 

I wonder if a guy could, in a pinch "until he could get time to replace the cvvt gear" clean the area around the plunger really good and fill it with JB Weld. To keep it from leaking until he could get it fixed.

 

A much better temporary fix would be to remove the VVT Solenoid and make a plate to block it off. This would prevent oil from going to the gear thus eliminating the leak. You shouldn't notice any difference in the way the engine runs, just that the CEL will stay on.

If I absolutely could not afford all of the parts, but needed the car to be running, that is what I would do.

 

On that note, I wonder what happens if you just un-plug the vvt solenoid instead (i.e. keep it in but remove dc connection) - does it rest in a closed position or open. Maybe closed? If so, easy solution. Maybe give it a try first. 1) clean the oil off VVT and belt, 2) unplug the Solenoid, 3) check back in 6 weeks to see if oil is back...

 

Where is this solenoid located Sir?

 

it is highlighted in this thread:

GUIDE - How to check if the VVT pulley has failed - Volvo Owners Club Forum

Unplugging the black connector was what I was suggesting...not sure if it will work though.

 

Nice job. I optimized the complete pdf so the whole file is now 4.8 MB instead of 11 MB. PM me if you want a copy or if I can do any other document processing for you.

 

Have you actually determined the source of your oil leak? I don't see you say that anywhere in this thread. The place to start is the oil filler cap gasket - Volvo P/N 1275379, at least on my '00 V40. This will always need replacing on cars of this vintage. For a couple of bucks I'd start there.

 

I'm a bit of an o-ring guru for reasons I won't go into. If you'd like to mail it to me I'll post the correct o-ring size and a source in this thread. I'll mail the plunger back to you when I'm done.

 

Don't bother trying this. Have asked some folks more knowledgeable than me and it won't work. It's either replace the vvt or fiddle with o ring.

 

Yes Sir, the oil is seeping from the plunger like in the pic above.

 

That's what I was planning to do, I pretty good at fixing things that I know nothing about.

 

I could do that, but the problem is that this Volvo is the only car we have.

 

No problem, just Private Message me your address.

This may be an issue... I would send you the whole gear, but due to the weight it might be pricey to ship. With the entire gear you would also have the inside diameter of the hole that the plunger goes in. Tell you what, USPS has a small flat rate box that ships for $5.80... if the gear will fit in one of those (the box is 1 5/8" tall, so it should) I'll just send you the whole thing. And no need to return anything to me, I have no need for it, and I was going to pitch it the next time I cleaned off my work bench anyway