S40 2002
Hi! I wanted to introduce myself to other Volvo enthusiasts out there. After driving my s40 for over a year now I cannot help being an enthusiast... The only problem I have experienced with this car is a slight loss of power at first start up in the mornings. The car is NOT throwing any codes. It gets great gas mileage and looks beautiful. Sometimes looks is an indication of a well maintained car. This loss of power or sluggishness goes away after a minute or two or five. I always let it warm up anyway to operating temp. But the problem still persists. This vehicle has 150,000+ miles on it and other than that annoying loss of power it runs like new and drives like new. It truly blows my ex car (Honda) away. I got spoiled a long time ago with my VW Golf and the Asian makes just were not good enough after that. That led me to this Volvo. Has anyone here had a similar experience with their s40? I am definitely considering a new set of wheels for this car as well as some other minor performance and appearance mods. So any connections would be greatly appreciated.
Update, I moved to Flrida and the car now has 170,000 miles and I wish I could say that there isn't any problems but...The idle control valve had to be cleaned. Did not help the idle problem I have been having. The MAF was cleaned and it helped maintain an idle, but the fan stays on for a very long time, it did not do this before and is a new development. It stays on for 2-5 minutes seems like more sometimes. I can turn the key to the on position, without starting the car and then turn it off. The fan kicks in and runs for 2-5 minutes. All without even starting the engine. Ice cold no reason whatever to have the fan running but there it is.
A member said the coolant sensor is bad. OK bought a new one. I need a DIY on this can anyone direct me in the right direction?
A member said the coolant sensor is bad. OK bought a new one. I need a DIY on this can anyone direct me in the right direction?
I've read it's the MAF that causes the fan to run continuously. Never had it happen to me personally though.
The coolant temp sensor is very easy to replace. It simply screws into the side of the thermostat housing. I'd place a rag under to catch any spilled coolant then disconnect the wire harness then unscrew the old sensor and replace it with the new one. Top off the coolant as needed.
The coolant temp sensor is very easy to replace. It simply screws into the side of the thermostat housing. I'd place a rag under to catch any spilled coolant then disconnect the wire harness then unscrew the old sensor and replace it with the new one. Top off the coolant as needed.
Cleaning the MAF helped get the car to remain running once started. Starts easy BTW. Cleaning the IAC did nothing at all. Now drove it this morning and had very low idle for a few minutes then ran up to where it is supposed to be but then stopped at a light and the rpm went way down again and stayed there. Pulled over and adjusted the throttle cable to get the car to idle at 800 or so. It stabilized right there. Got home and put into park and the idle shot up to 2000. Had to pop the hood and adjust the throttle back down to 800 or about. What the heck, I have had it with trying to fix this, it's getting frustrating. Anger management classes not too far into the future. Just kidding. Losing patience though...
Have you replaces the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor) yet? It tells the computer what the engine temp is which controls fuel mix and fan.
Most people replace the thermostat at the same time and vise versa.
There is NO needs to let the car sit idle to warm up, it's actually bad for the motor. Start the car, sit maybe 30 seconds for the oil to circulate, then drive modestly until the motor warms to a normal temp (which should me less than 5 minutes or 3 miles), then you can drive like you stole it.
Most people replace the thermostat at the same time and vise versa.
There is NO needs to let the car sit idle to warm up, it's actually bad for the motor. Start the car, sit maybe 30 seconds for the oil to circulate, then drive modestly until the motor warms to a normal temp (which should me less than 5 minutes or 3 miles), then you can drive like you stole it.
I have run into a minor problem with the replacement of the coolant sensor. It looks very easy, I got about half way when I realized that "Darn it I do not have a 19mm wrench!" My kit only goes up to 15mm. I had to put it all back together again. The sooner I get this done I can get back to my JOB search. I wish had the cash to just hand this thing over to a reputable garage and get a rental. It is just too hard to deal with right now with very little to no cash. I would hate to spend money on something I do not need. But I absolutely love the feeling you get when you do the job yourself. My wife freaks out when I spend $10.00 on car wash solution. She will buy decorative items for the house but watch out world when I spend a buck or two on the cars. Hell she footed the bill for decorative paper towels that cost the same as the gasket she gave me hell about. Anyway the joys of marriage. I am kidding I have been very blessed for 25 years. And she is still gorgeous. So you all are giving me advice and that saves me cash and could save my marriage also, so Thanks a Bunch for your help you all!
I got the new coolant sensor in. Fan still runs on and on and on. The car is idling very low at first, 300-500 rpm. then when driving for a coupe of minutes or miles it goes to where it should be at 800 rpm, seems steady. When I finish my trip I get home and the car idles at 1000 when put it park. that's too high I think, right? It seems to bog down a bit when put in gear. The car is still sluggish at first couple of minutes of driving. And then it behaves normally. I have been told it was the MAF, the idle control valve, the fuel regulator, the coolant sensor. I have cleaned the idle control valve, cleaned the MAF, replaced the coolant sensor, and checked the fuel regulator. still has symptoms described above. I am able to go to the auto parts store today and get the codes read. I will let you know what they say. Later....
BTW when I turned on the a/c the idle dropped precariously low. I wish I could get this going myself without the involvement of a mechanic. These guys in South Florida are robbers. And not very nice. Customer Service sucks here! I have been all over the united states and other parts of the world and this is by far the worst place to live so far. The best? San Diego, California baby! I had a mechanic in Cali who is an enthusiast and he became a family friend.
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0102 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Low Input
OBD-II DTC: P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1)
You cleaned the MAF which helped...but maybe it's just time for a new one after 170k miles?
OBD-II DTC: P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1)
You cleaned the MAF which helped...but maybe it's just time for a new one after 170k miles?
Thanks I guess I'll have to break down and get one. I have had performance issues also, would the MAF have had anything to do with that? My guess is yes. I seriously hope that a new MAF would fix my performance troubles that would make my baby run like new again. And this bad MAF would cause the cooling fan to continuously run on like that? Strange. Someone else had a coolant fan run on problem and the new thermostat fixed the problem. My guess is I am having two separate problems here.
OK Volvo friends. New MAF installed took about 5 minutes for the car to settle down as it sorted things out. Finally evened out a bit too fast for idle I adjusted it down to 800 or so. Now I can goose the throttle and the car idles back down to the proper setting. So I think my idle problem is over. However, he fan is still running on and on after shutdown. SO the thermostat has to be replaced now to address that problem. Funny though the codes said nothing about thermostat. The gauge in the car says normal temp. right smack in the middle of the gauge. There is absolutely NO indication of overheating at all. But the fan still runs on and on. I can turn the key so the lights on the dash turn on and then I will turn the key to the off position and the dreaded fan starts up for 2-5 minutes it runs on and on despite the engine being never turned on, and ice cold. I will try the thermostat and then I will let you know. In the meantime I would entertain any opinions.
Read this earlier post by another forum member bcolins.
He had a V70XC with similar issues with the fan.
He needed a new fan unit which included the integrated transistorised switch apparently.
https://volvoforums.com/forum/2001-2...3-v70xc-74059/
He had a V70XC with similar issues with the fan.
He needed a new fan unit which included the integrated transistorised switch apparently.
https://volvoforums.com/forum/2001-2...3-v70xc-74059/
No the air conditioning is definitely not on. The switch is bad. I got no a/c. BTW I will be needing to get one before next summer. I figure I do not run the a/c much anyway. And in the winter usually the parts for a/c systems are cheaper as they are not in demand. But I will definitely check out the post regarding xc70 with similar issues. Thanks fellow Volvo addicts!
BTW the fan does not run until battery fails it just runs for 2-5 minutes. The temp gauge says normal range. No overheating issues. Maybe changing out the thermostat will help. Since the part is cheap. The a/c switch is next. Funny how just a year ago this was the only car I have had that did not require constant maintenance now it seems like everything at once. Frustrating as hell since getting a different car is out of reach and the car looks fantastic with the new wheels I got it. I am just bummed that the new MAF did not fix all the problems. I was really hoping. But anyway maybe just this last $10 part will clear up the annoyances! BTW does anyone know where I can get the interior headliner clips for the rear and for the sun visors without going to the dealers?
thermostats in but the new one did not come with a new gasket. Now I have to search for a gasket, never ending. Kids in the hospital for 2 weeks, wife's job giving her **** over it.
BTW I do not think that the new thermostat is going to fix the fan running on and on continuously. I turned the key to the on position (wthout starting the car)to see what headlight needed replacing, and then turned the key off (wthout starting the car) and the damn fan turned on despite the car NEVER being started after 3 days! Has to have something to do with the fan itself. It's a bunch of BS at this point.
BTW I do not think that the new thermostat is going to fix the fan running on and on continuously. I turned the key to the on position (wthout starting the car)to see what headlight needed replacing, and then turned the key off (wthout starting the car) and the damn fan turned on despite the car NEVER being started after 3 days! Has to have something to do with the fan itself. It's a bunch of BS at this point.
Shopped around for the thermostat gasket. I assumed that the gasket would come with the new thermostat. WRONG, And WHY NOT? What kind of crap is this? Anyway called around Autozone does not have it, Advance Auto does not have it, O'rielly's got it but there is no O'riellys anywhere nearby. Does anyone know any auto parts store/supplier in the Pembroke pines / Hollywood area of florida where I can get this part?
ok, alrighty then... all quiet on the western front eh?
I got the gasket and put everything together again. Still fan goes on and on. OK SO far
1. new MAF
2. new coolant sensor
3. new thermostat
4. new thermostat gasket
I turned the car on today and refilled any lost coolant. hardly any lost at all. Anyway after letting it idle for a half a minute, turned it off and the fan says hello it's my turn and runs on for like 2 minutes. Gauges inside say cold heat range since I have not driven anywhere. But fan still turns on. GREAT. Anyway not too happy with the idle either. It seems a little low. Cannot figure this out and out of time, anyone want a 2002 Volvo S40?
I got the gasket and put everything together again. Still fan goes on and on. OK SO far
1. new MAF
2. new coolant sensor
3. new thermostat
4. new thermostat gasket
I turned the car on today and refilled any lost coolant. hardly any lost at all. Anyway after letting it idle for a half a minute, turned it off and the fan says hello it's my turn and runs on for like 2 minutes. Gauges inside say cold heat range since I have not driven anywhere. But fan still turns on. GREAT. Anyway not too happy with the idle either. It seems a little low. Cannot figure this out and out of time, anyone want a 2002 Volvo S40?



Could be something with the idle control, but I've never heard of this problem on a FI engine.