Hi,

My volvo S40 T4 2001 Phase 2 manual, which has done over 140k miles is having a few annoying problems listed below:

1) Starting problems - Only occurs when starting cold.
When turning the key from II to III, the car starts to fire and seems to just give up, the engine still is turning, but does not fire. Repeated short bursts (around 3-5 seconds) of switching key back and forth get it going after about 5-10 times. After pulling up and stopping the engine, it start again no problem, but when leaving it all day whilst at work it will go back to not starting straight away. I had the bonnet up at the weekend trying to start, and the engine seem to be rocking/jumping around a bit when it was trying to fire.

2) Idling problems - Occurs after running up to normal temp, about 10-15 minute run.
Car stutters, can feel engine jerking around, managed to get car in this state at the weekend and got out and had a look at exhaust, it seemed to be blowing smoke rings e.g. Normal Exhaust fumes with gaps in-between when there is little fumes. When this happens the Engine Management light flashes on and off, sometimes it stays on, and sometimes it just goes off when I pull away. Also, I have had this problem for over a year, its only recently it has become an "annoying problem"

I have a USB to EOBD unit for reading out error codes from the Engine Management System (EM), there is the following error codes:

P0303 Cyl 3 Misfire Detected - Engine Speed 739 rpm
P0300 Random/Multiple Cyl Misfire - Engine Speed 739 rpm

I reckon starting problem 1) is caused by Fuel Pressure Regulator needing replacement, and also causing P0300 EM Error Code.

The idling problem 2), which I think is causing P0303 error code is caused by bad ignition coils, the car recently had all the spark plugs replaced (another story and EM Error code ... )

Also I think to make things worse, the left engine mount is on its way out, Up to about 1 year ago I did almost all motorway driving, since then its more urban driving and have noticed the engine is a little bit more noisy now, and when starting engine seems to jump around a bit.

So onto some questions

Has anyone had starting problems like above, that are not caused by the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR), and could something as simple as replacing the ignition coils ..

Also, for these parts (Coils and FPR), does anyone know of a online UK Supplier ?

 

Sorry I hate responding to myself ...

After more research I have decided I am going to change out both coils and HT leads and replace the FPR. Seems so far I have been lucky, as far as I know these parts have never been changed out since I had the car from 2003 at just under 55,000 miles, so they seem to have last long time compared to reported problems with these components.

I have few more questions, please help if you can

Igintiion Coils)

I am assuming when standing in front of engine with bonnet open, cylinder 1 is on the my left and cylinder 4 is on my right.
just to be sure with this car, coils should be both cylinders 3 and 4. Leads go from 4 to 1, and from 3 to 2. Is this correct wiring configuration ?

Also if coil in 3 is fubar, why is there no misfire reported from cylinder 2 as well since both cylinders run from same coil pack ?

Changing Spark Plugs)

Do I need a Torque wrench to ensure correct tightness when refitting plugs ?

Cheers Ben

 

Yes cylinder 1 is on the left side next to the timing belt. And yes cylinder #1 wire goes to #4 coil. And yes #2 goes to #3.

Not sure why it will only affect the one cylinder. I think there is 2 different sides for the coil one feeds directly to the cylinder and the other to the wire.

When you screw the plugs in feel for the crush washer on the plug to compress and give just a little more and you will be fine.

 

Thanks tech, I thought that it would fine as long theres a bit of pressure againest the crush washers the plugs are not going to go anywhere.

Unfortunately I think I have a lot more serious problems , and the car is off the road for now

I noticed when I was checking the wiring around the coils, spark plugs and leads there was a little oil there on the top of the engine, now I am usually really careful not to spill any when topping up. Someone suggested the oil cap might need replacement, as it is no longer sealing right and theres a little oil spraying out when the cars running. I had a lot at the cap, and found it had a gloppy white substance on the other side of the cap, I did a search for this problem and found out its because theres coolant leaking into the oil, e.g. the 'mayo' effect

Just today I checked the coolant and its started smelling of oil/petrol not to sure, but it certainly is not coolant Also, it looks like the coolant is slightly darker than usual, but it was later at night and I will need check in the morning under daylight. So I checked the dip-stick and theres nothing mixed in with it, it just has oil on it. I have been losing a little bit of coolant for while which I always put down to a small leak somewhere, however I seem to have recently lost at over one litre of coolant ...

My first thought is head gasket, but it could be mixing somewhere else (e.g. oil cooler or turbo) ? Anyone got tips on how to prove/disprove head gasket issues ?

 

The oil under there could be from a bad oil cap seal and or clogged vent system causing excess pressure making it leak out the cap.

If you live in a Northern climate if you take alot of short trips there will be some condensation under the cap.

What I would do is flush the coolant and fill it up then take it for a long highway drive and see how it goes from there.

In my experience the S40's always loose a slight bit of coolant. Most owners never know because there is no low coolant light in the system.

 

thanks for the help tech,

Yesterday, I drained out the coolant , I didn't have any coolant flush so I just used some plain water. While that that draining through I removed the HT leads and coils, there was a lot of heat damage from the leaking oil, also some of the cabling tubes cracked, so another job to do One of the HT plugs split so the part that sits on the white part of the plug was still stuck in there !, I've clean these up as much as possible and reseated them. I also checked the thermostat and coolant sensor since that was my last bit of handy work, both look good and clean and theres no signs of leaking from the thermostat mounting.

Today, I went to go get some coolant/anti-freeze from the local garage, they didn't have any so I filtered the old coolant (don't ask what I used and refilled + topped up with some tap water. And it started first time in about 2-3 weeks from cold !!, so I think the starting problems are related the HT coils and plugs.

I have some new ones ordered, but I have to pick em up next week. I will not refit them till I get this oil problem sorted, I will start with a either a new oil cap.

I noticed there was a small black pipe between cylinders 2 & 3 that loops downwards, between the engine block and the intake manifold. I believe this part of the oil vent system (or PCV / Oil Trap I have seen it called), if the vent system was blocked or this pipe was getting old, I guess this could be another place where oil is leaking from ?

I have let the engine run to temperature and checked for coolant and could not see any, but today is overcast and keeps raining Going to let the engine cool back down again and then refit the stone guard and take it for a good run.

Btw, I live in england and its been very cold recently, and yes I only do short journeys of about 3-4 miles.

Something else I noticed, is there was a little bit of smoke from the back of the engine (e.g. the turbo area) after starting, could it just be a little bit of oil burning off ?

 

That is possible it is a little bit of oil burning off.

 

I managed to get some time this weekend to work on the car. The weather has been very wet, cold and overcast in the UK ... I need to get a garage so I can work on the car more

The radiator hose clips (top and bottom) where showing signs of rusting, so I removed them (would not simply unscrew!) and replaced.

I drained out the old coolant, then filled up with some plain water and ran the engine for about 15 minutes and drained again, just to be sure the old coolant was flushed out. I noticed when doing this the levels in the reserve tank where bubbling up and down as I lleft the reserve cap off.

I topped up and have ran the car today, I noticed 2 things before I left work when the engine was COLD 1) The coolant hoses where brick hard 2) I opened the reserve tank there was a lot of pressure and a little coolant sprayed out :-(

I am still thinking that the head gasket is gone, or going. So for piece of mind book it into a local independent volvo garage and get them to check for gasket failure (e.g. cyclinder pressure check, and checks for exhaust gases in coolant loop).

 

That might be the best having them check for a bad gasket.

 

Got bad news today. turns out head gasket is gone, There is exhaust pressurising into the coolant system, and coolant leaking into oil and poor cylinder compression

Going to cost £900 to put it right, including new head gasket, timing belt + pulley(s), Aux Belt, new oil + filter, coolant and misc bits, also included in the price is sending the head to a specialist for skimming + reconditioning.

Engine is to far gone to try sell the car now, so going ahead with the repair. Everything else (interior, paint work, suspension etc) all in good condition and I really like the car.

 

Sad it is the headgasket but you got it figured out.