Two nights ago after driving thru a very heavy rain and splashing along the streets (never submerged the car) arrived home and later that night, the horn began working on itīs own. I had to remove the horn relay in the engine compartment and problem solved. In the morning the flashers were working on their own, so I pressed two or three times the flasher switch and problem solved, then decided to start the car for a few minutes to recharge the battery and warm up the engine. After a few minutes I switched off the engine and the key got stuck...it was the first time in about a year; It had been stuck before and used the wd40 drop trick inside the switch after managing to get the key out. This time the key would not come out at all, so had to cut AC power via negative battery lead and then decided to dissasamble the dash per Vadis instructions; managed to get the switch with stuck key out. Proceeded to dissasamble the switch: it contains three main parts; the back cover with three tiny torx, a delicate contactor for the key reader and a solenoid retractable peg that allows the key to be turned and also prevents the key to be taken into the Zero position, the middle and rotating part in which the key was stuck -you need to push the key out with a screw driver or other object- and the front part, which contains the contactors and four protruding plastic guides that push in the contactors depending the key position.

Reassambled the ignition switch and proceeded to install it again, connected the negative lead and tried to get the car going. Surprise, key stuck again, engine would not turn and an "Imovilizer, check manual" text came on. Had to cut power again via neg lead, unninstall switch, dissasamble and get key out.

After reading posts of stuck keys etc, decided to travel the 60 miles to the nearest volvo dealer in Mexico City to buy a new ignition switch for about 160 USD tax included.

Installed it today and surprise again; same as before, key stuck, immovilizer warning as before....So I began wondering what is causing the lack of DC going into the solenoid peg inside the ignition switch not to retract and allow the key going all the way to Zero...maybe bad relays, faulty connections inside the fuse and relay box inside the hood due to moisture...checked everything, cleaned with electroflush electronic cleaner, inspected and cleaned the two connectors to the ECM the same way, reconnected everything and tried again and the same. Also tried locking and unlocking the doors and sunroof and they work, lights work, radio works, everything seems to be fine but the bloody key keeps sticking in and the engine will not start.

Any ideas will be appreciated.

 

I called the Volvo dealer today (50 miles away) and asked the chief mechanic for advice, if thereīs any way I can "de-immobilize" my car....-bring it in-. He says that if the ignition switch is changed it needs to be paired with the car via VIDA....and I wonder if thatīs so....Also tried putting the old switch back (tested its solenoid and it works), but to no avail. Iīm begining to feel like immobilizing myself via Tequila shots all weekend long.

 

Iīm happy to report that after many tries and another and last cleaning and wiggling of the cables inside the fuse and relay box under the hood -driverīs side-, my S40 came back to life !!. My conclusion is: if you ever get the key stuck in the ignition switch of your S40 2004.5 onwards, it is probably not the ignition switch at fault but a loose wire inside the aformentioned fuse box, specially if you drive over wet roads, as Volvo did a very poor job at weatherproofing the fuse box.