Timing belt issue
#1
Timing belt issue
I need to replace my timing belt on my 2004 V-40, could someone help me out with the process, I took it to a shop and they wanted around $400 for the service> I thought that was a little steep considering the belt costs $35.00, any help on this issue would be appreciated, thanks
#2
RE: Timing belt issue
mruff5
$400seems pretty cheap if they know what they are doing. It is quite a large and time consuming task, and is atight job in the S40. Most good commercial places will charge at least $700 to dealership $1100 (?) in Dallas area, from what information I received about 5 months ago. When you change the timing belt, you also should change the water pump and the seals as it is the same labor process...and to not do it, and have to later, will wreck all timing belt work done.
Perhaps a good searchon this site will give you a more complete idea of the task at hand and some prices.
Best of Luck
$400seems pretty cheap if they know what they are doing. It is quite a large and time consuming task, and is atight job in the S40. Most good commercial places will charge at least $700 to dealership $1100 (?) in Dallas area, from what information I received about 5 months ago. When you change the timing belt, you also should change the water pump and the seals as it is the same labor process...and to not do it, and have to later, will wreck all timing belt work done.
Perhaps a good searchon this site will give you a more complete idea of the task at hand and some prices.
Best of Luck
#10
RE: Timing belt issue
The Volvo recommended change interval for the 1.9L engine is 105k miles. I would not change it before 100k or later than 105k.
You can change your own timing belt, tensioner, and water pump for about $150 total if you have the right tools. It's not hard if you have a bit of mechanical ability and a garage or similar. Imagine how many tools you can buy with the $250 you would have given to the garage to do the work for you. Tools you can keep for a lifetime.
You can change your own timing belt, tensioner, and water pump for about $150 total if you have the right tools. It's not hard if you have a bit of mechanical ability and a garage or similar. Imagine how many tools you can buy with the $250 you would have given to the garage to do the work for you. Tools you can keep for a lifetime.
#11
#12
#13
RE: Timing belt issue
Heat, excessive tension, contaniments (spilled or leakingfluids like oil from the cam/crank seals or coolant from the water pump), manufacturing flaws, water pump seizing, trauma, etc. can all cause premature failure.
On these interference engines, it's never too soon to replace a belt.If you did it yourself every 50K miles, you'd still come out ahead when compared to the cost of replacing the head/engine just once.
My personal magic number is every 80K.
On these interference engines, it's never too soon to replace a belt.If you did it yourself every 50K miles, you'd still come out ahead when compared to the cost of replacing the head/engine just once.
My personal magic number is every 80K.
#14
#15
#16
RE: Timing belt issue
If you stand back and look at the top of the engine compaired to the 850 you will see a few diffrent things.
1.The timing cover setup is very different.
2.The way the timing cover spark plug cover on the S40 allows a lot more heat to be transfered over to the timing belt area.
The 850 the timing belt area is pretty much seperate from the spark plug area.
This is my OPINION on why the belts go bad way before the allowed time.
Also I am still trying to find it in writing I have seen it somehwere that the tensioner and idler pulley service interval is at 80k and not 105K.
That right there is really fishy that a bearing is reccomended to be changed way before a rubber belt.
1.The timing cover setup is very different.
2.The way the timing cover spark plug cover on the S40 allows a lot more heat to be transfered over to the timing belt area.
The 850 the timing belt area is pretty much seperate from the spark plug area.
This is my OPINION on why the belts go bad way before the allowed time.
Also I am still trying to find it in writing I have seen it somehwere that the tensioner and idler pulley service interval is at 80k and not 105K.
That right there is really fishy that a bearing is reccomended to be changed way before a rubber belt.
#17
RE: Timing belt issue
I just went and checked my old timing belt that I changed at 103k miles. It looks good with no cracks evident. (Don't know why I keep old parts, bad habit). I also checked my European Haynes Manual to see where I got the 105k mile change interval stuck in my head. This manual says 80k miles for a change with Volvo recommending the tensioner be changed at the same time. So next time someone asks I can say "Haynes manual says" instead of saying "Volvo says". I'm pretty sure I did not yank 105k out of midair but who knows, lol. The manual does state clearly that if in doubt, replace it.
#18
#19
RE: Timing belt issue
Yes I know Volvo reccomends 105K but most won't last that long.
Just like Volvo having to Warranty a ton of motors due to sludge because they moved the oil change intervals to 7,500 instead of 5,000 miles. But even with the turbo cars that had the 5k intervals we saw a lot of then sludge up.They also had proof of the oil changed every 5k and it was still sludged up.
Thats why I reccomend 3k on turbo models and 5k on Non-turbo models.
Just like Volvo having to Warranty a ton of motors due to sludge because they moved the oil change intervals to 7,500 instead of 5,000 miles. But even with the turbo cars that had the 5k intervals we saw a lot of then sludge up.They also had proof of the oil changed every 5k and it was still sludged up.
Thats why I reccomend 3k on turbo models and 5k on Non-turbo models.
#20
RE: Timing belt issue
I will definitely report if mine fails before I change it next at 200k. If the water pump goes before then I'll change it early though.
I may be crazy but I change my oil at 15k miles. 2 Service lights worth of driving. I bought the car at 31k miles and now have about 125k. No issues to report with sludge or VVT problems. I use Mobil One 5W30 full synthetic 15k mile extended service oil.
When I cleaned the injectors I did notice allot of gunk in the intake tract. Probably from the PCV system. I used both thottle body cleaner and Seafoam to clean it out. The flametrap needs to be cleaned or replaced but I really don't want to remove the intake just to clean it. I better start thinking about it soon.
I may be crazy but I change my oil at 15k miles. 2 Service lights worth of driving. I bought the car at 31k miles and now have about 125k. No issues to report with sludge or VVT problems. I use Mobil One 5W30 full synthetic 15k mile extended service oil.
When I cleaned the injectors I did notice allot of gunk in the intake tract. Probably from the PCV system. I used both thottle body cleaner and Seafoam to clean it out. The flametrap needs to be cleaned or replaced but I really don't want to remove the intake just to clean it. I better start thinking about it soon.