torn a/c belt wound up by crankshaft pulley
#1
torn a/c belt wound up by crankshaft pulley
Hey everyone,
The belt tore on my wife's 2005 2.4i S40 and got "eaten" by the crankshaft pulley. It wound up all the metal strands under itself and prevents the motor from operating. I pulled lots of them out, still not enough. I am now going to do a timing belt replacement and maybe even the front seal while I'm there, because I have to remove the crankshaft pulley in order to completely clean the belt debris.
Its been a fairly absurd situation so far, usually torn belts just wind up laying in pieces somewhere in the engine bay. Wondering if anyone has had this happen before?
Overall this motor is just odd, seems to have been designed as an afterthought.
The belt tore on my wife's 2005 2.4i S40 and got "eaten" by the crankshaft pulley. It wound up all the metal strands under itself and prevents the motor from operating. I pulled lots of them out, still not enough. I am now going to do a timing belt replacement and maybe even the front seal while I'm there, because I have to remove the crankshaft pulley in order to completely clean the belt debris.
Its been a fairly absurd situation so far, usually torn belts just wind up laying in pieces somewhere in the engine bay. Wondering if anyone has had this happen before?
Overall this motor is just odd, seems to have been designed as an afterthought.
Last edited by mike.k; 05-29-2012 at 11:03 AM.
#2
#3
Perhaps I'll research a T5 swap as long as I'm facing this much work.
#5
#6
#7
#8
I replaced them originally because the old ones were noisy, looked worn, and there was no record available of when they were last replaced. Once this is all fixed, all 3 belts will be Contitech, which I've been impressed with when using on my MB.
#9
I removed the crank pulley today, there was no more belt material under it. FYI, I rented the smaller pulley puller from autozone and it worked great, I was quoted 200+ for the Volvo tool, which is just a drilled plate with a screw.
It does seem that the cams went a bit ahead of the crank in timing, but they didn't jump with respect to each other.
I've got a few questions that I'll be researching online and in VADIS, but if anyone knows the answers please post:
- What specific part of the crank pulley is the marker? There is a "M" stamped into it, and a bit to the left of it there is an actual notch. In addition to both of those there is also the flat part of the crank which is used to align it when putting it back.
- What are the TDC positions for each cylinder? I'm going to test for bent valves by putting in compressed air.
It does seem that the cams went a bit ahead of the crank in timing, but they didn't jump with respect to each other.
I've got a few questions that I'll be researching online and in VADIS, but if anyone knows the answers please post:
- What specific part of the crank pulley is the marker? There is a "M" stamped into it, and a bit to the left of it there is an actual notch. In addition to both of those there is also the flat part of the crank which is used to align it when putting it back.
- What are the TDC positions for each cylinder? I'm going to test for bent valves by putting in compressed air.
#11
#14
All cylinders are bad except for #2. Considering the cost of parts needed to swap the head, new valves, new bolts, and machine shop labor, I might just opt for a used motor.
angry/upset rant: If there are any redeeming qualities to this car, I haven't found them; German costs with American build quality.
angry/upset rant: If there are any redeeming qualities to this car, I haven't found them; German costs with American build quality.
#15
#16
Removed the head yesterday. Not sure why I got good compression on #2, they all look bad. I had never seen bent valves before, so I didn't quite know what to expect. They looked well-seated until I slipped a feeler gauge past them and it all became obvious. The entire intake side is bent.
Right now I'm just planning to swap the valves myself, it's not something I've worked on before, but YouTube makes it look straightforward.
Right now I'm just planning to swap the valves myself, it's not something I've worked on before, but YouTube makes it look straightforward.
#18
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check it. About a year ago I did the shim fix on that clutch because it stopped engaging, that only moves it slightly to the inside, but perhaps that was enough to misalign the belt?
#19
That was the A/C compressor clutch. I'm talking about the alternator clutch pulley. You didn't even know you had one. Most people don't and they can be engine destroyers.
#20
But the alternator pulley on this motor is driven by a belt that comes off from the a/c pulley, and that one wasn't torn. Also, the alternator pulley on this car isn't clutched, that's a rare feature and I think its only on cars that have engines designed for instant start/stop.