Video: 2001 s40 CV joint binding, engine movement. Bad motor/trans mounts?
#1
Video: 2001 s40 CV joint binding, engine movement. Bad motor/trans mounts?
After doing my front end suspension work (struts, springs, control arms, tie rod ends, sway bar links.) I attempted to drive the vehicle. I knew something was wrong as soon as I reversed the car out of the garage. Pulled back in, put it up on jack stands and found the passenger side cv joint appears to be binding. This is a remanufactured axle replaced probably at least 10k miles ago. Appears to be in good condition. When I spin the tire it gets extremely hard to turn at one spot in the rotation and actually moves the engine. Driver side I can spin the tire fine, with no resistance. Also there is a loud clunk when I shift from reverse into drive, or drive into reverse. And the engine moves, also movement when I am on the gas. Here are three videos to show the problems.
#2
From your video it really sounds like you have 3 problems.
One is the sewing machine sound. On mine it was simply a loose nut on the exhaust manifold.
Two is the long cranking. It should start way faster than that. I would check the fuel pressure after engine shutdown. The pressure should hold for many minutes before falling. If it immediately drops to zero on shutdown then the fuel pressure regulator is bad.
Three might be your bottom two motor mounts. Crawl up under the car and check for cracks in the rubber on the bottom 2. Mine had visible cracks in the rubber plus a noticeable shaking of your braking foot when idling in gear. The upper main and trans mounts don't usually fail.
Just my guesses.
One is the sewing machine sound. On mine it was simply a loose nut on the exhaust manifold.
Two is the long cranking. It should start way faster than that. I would check the fuel pressure after engine shutdown. The pressure should hold for many minutes before falling. If it immediately drops to zero on shutdown then the fuel pressure regulator is bad.
Three might be your bottom two motor mounts. Crawl up under the car and check for cracks in the rubber on the bottom 2. Mine had visible cracks in the rubber plus a noticeable shaking of your braking foot when idling in gear. The upper main and trans mounts don't usually fail.
Just my guesses.
#3
You pulled the axle's inner joint apart when you were replacing the lower control arms. Take that side back apart and hopefully you'll be able to get the axle back into its original configuration (I wouldn't try driving it at all until you fix it - can't be good on the clearances).
I had a V70 axle pull apart on me once, and had to pull it out to get it back together. IIRC, I stood it up vertically, aligned the parts by feel (since you can't see 'em - they're inside the boot), and dropped it 6-8" onto a piece of cardboard (to protect the splines), letting the weight of the axle itself serve as a hammer.
I had a V70 axle pull apart on me once, and had to pull it out to get it back together. IIRC, I stood it up vertically, aligned the parts by feel (since you can't see 'em - they're inside the boot), and dropped it 6-8" onto a piece of cardboard (to protect the splines), letting the weight of the axle itself serve as a hammer.
#4
#5
#6
Yeah it was the inner joint. One of the bearings came off it’s rod. I had to take the boot off to get it back together. Seems to be driving smooth for now.
Front lower motor mount does have some cracking.
I think the clicking sound is coming from the drive or timing belt or one of the pulleys. I’ll have to investigate further.
Thanks for the replies.
Front lower motor mount does have some cracking.
I think the clicking sound is coming from the drive or timing belt or one of the pulleys. I’ll have to investigate further.
Thanks for the replies.
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