Halo everyone....my name is Eric ...have a problem with my volvo s40 2.4i 2005 model
replaced the head gasket ....set my timing as it should be but the car won't start....my battery went weak than I got a smaller battery but still nothing.... could it be the battery problem....ive tried the 5times unlocking method but nothing
Please help

 

Welcome to VF Eric

The smaller battery won't matter. It's still 12 volt so it should operate the ignition system and spin the starter just fine. It might not spin it as long since it might be electrically smaller in storage capacity but in day to day operation a smaller battery just gives you less reserve should you need it. AND in winter it might be too small where it won't crank fast enough on really cold below zero days. I know from experience with the rare but occasional -20/-25 it gets around these parts.
Personally that's the reason I stuff the biggest battery I can into my cars no matter what the recommended size is.

Since you did a head I'd go back and check the timing marks just to be sure.

Same with the wiring harness. Anything that you might have missed plugging in ??

Have you checked for spark ??

Have you tried to squirt a bit of starting fluid in there to see if it pops ??

.

 

I've used the timing method but before ive stripped the head ....I made my own marks on the cams....maybe I should use those ones
i was thinking....to check for spark would be a bit difficult seens i have to remove my intake compartment to get to the coils

 

I came to a thought that maybe the reason for not starting is ive changed my fuel pressure sensor with another one....as my diagnostic tool read faulty fuel pressure sensor

 

next step would be to measure the fuel pressure at the rail.

 

My fuel has pressure....checked for spark....it there but it's brownish blue...and when I removed my spark plugs they were all wet..I came across something.....my diagnostic tool says my crank is set to a spark advance timing at 1.5degrees and I've seen whn my crank is at the mark the piston on cylinder #1 is not yet on TDC.....so I'm thinking of putting the piston on TDC but than the mark on the crank won't align with the other mark....how can i test my ignition coil packs?

 

Please help me with any ideas please
the car is stressing me really

 

These cars do not use Top Dead Center. With the crank gear on the mark all pistons are down in their bores so that you can change the timing belt without a valve striking the piston top as these are interference engines.

First thing I would check is compression. Having bent 8 valves on my car I it's the first thing I look for. Harbor Freight sells a cheap tester that works well for the home mechanic. HF also sells a cheap "Fuel Injection Pump Tester" for $20.

Check compression, check fuel pressure, check spark, check timing belt alignment. Check all the fuses and make sure the car has some fuel.

 

Eric, if the car was running before you changed the head gasket, and now it won't start, it's a near certainty that you either didn't hook something up correctly, or that the timing is off. Either is easy enough to mess up. Double-check all the hoses and connectors (a whole bunch have to come off to do a head gasket), and of course, the timing.

Again, if the car was running before the head gasket replacement, the odds of something separate and unrelated failing is near zero.

 

Halo everyone
i replaced my piston rings and head gasket....set my timing right checked for spark... injector pulse and everything... The engine cranks but won't start it just have a buffing sound.... when I turn the key on all my gauges go up but as soon as I crank the engine the fuel gauge goes down
What could be the possible problem please help....im confused

 

Using your own marks means you probably didn't set the timing right, especially since you replaced piston rings so you obviously moved the crank. I'm sure you didn't use the special tools to time the engine.

Sounds like you still didn't perform the suggested compression test. You likely have no compression. Did you oil the rings and cylinder walls? If you put it all back in dry you may not have compression. But the timing could also be off.

 

Yes I oiled the rings and the bores

 

My money is on timing.

 

You have to time these using the factory marks. If not, then you might have the timing off.

We are not sure how you did the timing but it sounds like timing. I'm also wondering if you handled the VVT correctly when you did the timing.

 

Hi once again
yes i used factory marks
Yesterday I used starting fluid and it just started for couple of seconds then died out
Cranked again but my plugs are only getting wet.....

 

Halo guys
i did a compression test .....my goodness I have low compression on all my cylinders and my intake cam is out of timing with one tooth.....I poured oil into my cylinders and there goes my compression higher....is it possible that Im loosing compression due to incorrect timing or should I replace my piston rings again....i recall I only oiled the bores and not the rings while they where on the pistons

 

You should be OK on compression after you fix the timing. The oil is kind of necessary to get a "real reading", but chances are you really didn't hurt the bores (yet)… at least not enough to get your knickers in a twist over.

 

As I mentioned earlier, I suspected a timing issue. Make sure that you understand how to time the vehicle with the VVT hubs. You absolutely will need the tool to hold the camshafts in the correct position.

I suspect that you are out more than one tooth. Unless you have the tool to lock the cams, it will be a waste of time.

 

I agree with Tony. Do it the right way. With the right tools.

Also, did you correctly stagger the rings?

 

2007 S40. Cranks,no start. Got fuel,spark,checked timing,throttle body,no codes,everything hooked up,keyswitch seem alright. Stick key in it sets t.b. for cold start. Fuel pressure, rpm acknowledged by ecm via code reader during crank, maf,map, throttle percentage stepping on pedal full range. Baffleing. Think it got flooded real bad. Crank over to check for spark,dry gas each cylinder. Any idea anyone? Text 570 534 2504, Matt.