Hello All -- My first post here and I'm feeling a bit desperate for answers.

I just bought a 2003 Volvo S60 AWD 2.5t 108,000 miles.

It's been pulling to the right when braking and also sort of following the road to the right when driving. It is VERY hard to get this to happen for other people, since it's unpredictable.

One mechanic gave it a test drive and said it was just that AWD follows the road and that different tires might help that have a straighter tread.
(the tires on it now are performance tires with some zig-zagging)

Just this morning, another mechanic said a caliper could be sticking, but he could not get it duplicate the problem while driving.

My landlord drove around with me and experienced JUST what I do, so, at least I know I'm not crazy.

I really can't stand how it handles since I had a Volvo 850 before this and never felt the steering do this.

I keep being told I have to adjust...blah, blah...but I think something is wrong.

Would your answer be similar to this one:
http://www.justanswer.com/volvo/3klg...s-applied.html


Also, I feel very foolish for paying 7500 for this car without checking the book value. After buying it and questioning the book value, I was given the NADA guides pricing.

Although, I was told that's what banks use, so are those prices even relevant?....I didn't get a loan for the car!

The guy who sold it to me was someone I've trusted over the years and didn't question what I now believe is an seriously inflated price.

Although, he does have knowledge of the history of the car and a timing belt was just replaced this July, and most people think it runs great.

It just seems noisy and unpredictable compared to my 1997 850, that I now REALLY wish I had just thrown some money into and kept!!!

All insight is appreciated....even insight into how much I paid....even reprimands......since hopefully I will have learned my lesson now.

Let me know what to do until I'm smart enough to marry a mechanic......LOL.....no, seriously, that's my next move....
....can't take this anymore!!!! LOL



Thanks!!!

 

Yeah, it sure could be the control arm bushings. Much more common than a caliper issue.

 

Sounds like worn control arms to me as well.

NADAGuides.com is the only source I use to consider value. From what you have told us, the "RETAIL" value is $7,750. This the average price as per registrations from dealers. So, some pay more and some pay less.

If the wondering is the only issue you have, count your blessings. I would NOT recommend marrying a mechanic. Marry someone that has enough money for you to get your car fixed at a reputable service center. LOL

 

Hello -- and thanks.

So, the NADA value is more accurate than the Kelly Blue Book price?

The Nada value I was given was about 8000 retail.

Kelly Blue says my car isn't worth much than about 5700...big difference.


So, okay, I'll let my mechanic know to check the calipers and the control arm bushings.

Should I go out of my way to ask him if the calipers and bushings, and whatever else, are Volvo parts? The website I linked to said that non-Volvo parts can be the problem.

Anyone agree with that?

Your help is appreciated more than you know.....I don't know as many people as I'd like to.

 

I think NADA stands for National Automotive Dealership Association, or something like that. I know the D stands for dealership or dealer. What I think it is is simply a way that the dealers inflate the prices of cars. I found junky cars for sale that I would value at 1500 listed for 4500 claiming book value. They mean NADA. And it's always way more than kelly blue book. This car had cheap paint repairs done, a coolant leak and was not worth 4500 for an 1990 model. My personal thoughts on NADA is it's a dealership scam collective.

That being said I don't know why a mechanic can't find it. My first thought was a loose suspension joint. A sticking rotor would always pull.

 

Has the alignment been checked? A toe in condition can also cause this. A reputable alignment shop should be able to get down to business on this. A common wear item is the control are bushings, again an alignment shop should see this though.

One thing you have to know and it's a peeve of mine, you CANNOT let go of the steering wheel to check the alignment on vehicles. While driving a car you are constantly compensating for road grade, wind, etc.. Letting go of the steering wheel not only is dangerous, but it is in no way a useful tool for seeing if your car drives straight.

As far as value goes there's no quick value. The best market value in my opinion is Edmunds True Market Value
http://www.edmunds.com/tmv.html

I buy fix and resell cars and this is what I use to value my cars I list. I'll look at Kelly Blue Book and NADA as well. When I list my cars I take the average of all three and use that as my starting sale price. They usually always end up closer to Edmunds value after negotiations though. lol

 

Well, I use NADA because most insurance companies and banks use it to value vehicles. I also believe they check sales data from the DMV to verify actual sales prices every 90 days or so. NADA gives 4 prices for every estimate. If it gives a retail price of 5,000 and the car needs work, you take the value difference off with the work needed in consideration.

When I purchase a car I take the retail value, which is considered a spotless car with processional services added to the buying and registration process, then start deducting expenses of needed repairs. If you look at NADA value, and measure up the condition of the car, the guide will tell you how much you should take off the price. It explains the different stages of condition well.

If you have a car totalled an insurance company will look at the vehicle and do the same thing. If the car has faded paint, bold tires, torn interior, they WILL NOT cut you a retail check. You'll end up getting a rough trade in check for it.

I have had cars that I sold for 20%+ more than KBB claimed it was worth. You can check KBB from day to day and the value is different. At least it use to do that a few years ago, not sure what's going on now, haven't been to their site in years. I do like a lot of Edmund's auto info, but have not see it for a little while.

 

Thank you so much for more responses and insights.

I think what is making this SO difficult for me is that I did NOT haggle over the price of this car. I did not even check out book values online before handing over 7500 in hard-earned and long to save up cash.

I am kicking myself for not negotiating and being such a fool.

Further, this is someone I've known since 2005 and thought for sure I could trust him so completely, that any double-checking was unnecessary.

Even if this car wasn't incredibly disappointing to me, I would be sickened by the inflated price I paid...PLUS, I also handed over my 1997 850 for NOTHING....not one penny off the cash I paid.

So, I'm really hurt by the fact that I would never buy another car from this person again and I'm so sick over it....so hurt I've been crying over it.

Aside from the GREAT deals I'm seeing on craigslist from private sales of this same model/miles, EVEN other car dealers across the nation are blowing away the deal I got by at least $1000 ....and even including 1 year warranties....
I only got 30 days!!!

Did I get screwed or what?

If you were me, would you say something....or is there no point, since I'll never get a penny back?

 

By the way, I used this website to narrow down all the craigslist ads nationwide to the Volvo S60 AWD:

Car Graph - See the Price Values of Used Vehicles for Sale with Graphs, Charts, and Tables

I didn't find many, and there was one or two in Oregon that seemed inflated, but the rest were some pretty great deals.

I do notice that the AWD sells for less than the FWD. Maybe people don't like the ways it handles or burns up gas?

If I'm lucky enough to sell this car, I'm going to do a hell of a lot of research before handing over my money to anyone. I'll be armed with more knowledge for sure.

 

I'm in the same boat as you Chloeblue, with my 2001 S80. Except I got it on a great deal because the lady curb checked it and broke the front control arm and both wheels on the right side. I'm kicking myself in the *** for not looking over the car more because the broken wheels were the least of it's problems lol

The electrical has been a nightmare, I had to replace the ABS module so the odometer would work again, airbag module, repair a pinch in the communication lines behind the radio, replace the A/C compressor, replace the seat module(they literally had a chunk of wood holding the seat in position LOL) and now the Engine Computer is in Canada as we speak getting the info swapped over to a good used one. I would have been better off buying one that was complete!

If the biggest worry you have is an alignment issue, that's not too bad compared to my headache...haha

Sell it on eBay of the local market is lowballing you. I sell alot of cars through eBay and they almost always net more money.

 

Brad,

Sorry you're going through this nonsense too. Cars are just so stressful to buy and maintain. Sorry for your money loss as well.

I think the only thing we can do is to make the best decisions right NOW going forward....until time machines are invented, we can't go back, so kicking ourselves won't help any.

I'll cross my fingers for both of us!