Hiall,
I was wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction. I've been using the search option for a couple hours already and now I'm at mywitts end trying to find info that will show me how to line up the crank and cams on my 01 S60 with the 2.4L non turbo. The intake cam has the cvvt and I have no idea where to properly align this beast. The crank isnt any better as I see 2 marks on the block and no marks or dots on the crank gear. If anyone can tell me how and where the timing marks are, it would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

They are a major pain to see sometimes.
The cams line up straight up to the top spark plug cover(Plastic)
The crank has a divit that is hard to see because the tensioner is in the way.
The block should have one line just above the crank pulley(Inner part where the timing belt rides.

 

I had to remove the lower gear and look at it up close. There are 2 teeth that are marked with the smallest markings. I marked them with liquid paper. The tooth in between the 2 marks lines up with the mark on the block. The cams line up with a mark on the upper part of the plastic timing cover.

 

Thank you for replying guys! I see the 2 small markings on the teeth. Now all I have to do is look for that marking on the block. I do see the notches at the 12 o clock position on the cam cover. Can you tell me exactly where the cam marks are on the cams? Since the intake cam has the cvvt, how would one go about aligning it? Thanks for any info!!! You guys are truly my saviors!!!

[/align]

 

ttt

 

Okay fellas, I found the notches on the face- any smaller and I'd need a microscope! I think I have everything lined up, so the last thing I need to do is properly align the intake cam. Correct me if I'm wrong on how to align the intake cam...Rotate it clockwise until the notch on the cam gear face lines up with the notch in the cover. Since the cam gear has play in it from being cvvt, I can rotate the cam gear counterclockwise about1/6th of a turn. Due to the adjustability of the cam, I should keep turning the cam gear clockwise until the notch in the gear lines up to the notch in the cover- when I turn it counterclockwise by hand. Thanks for hearin me out! [/align][/align][/align]

 

Don't worry about the cvvt. It is the pulleys you need to line up. The cam and the cvvt just move in relation to the gear. You can move the cams by hand but you will have to remove the spark plugs. That way you are not fighting the compression and makes it a lot easier. Once it is all back together rotate the crank 2 revolutions and make sure all the marks still line up. If not, you were of a tooth.
Lou

 

Lou, the intake cam has the adjustable pulley/gear. It has about 1/6th of a turn of play either way. I'm told this helps out the low end as well as overall operation of the engine. I've heard of people being a tooth off on the intake gear/pulley and a CEL comes up. I'm almost there, I just need to find out how to alignthe intake camproperly...

 

All marks have to line up exactly. Move the sprocket until the marks line up. You can grab the sprocket with 2 hands and turn it to any position you want when the belt is removed. All you are fighting is the pressure from the valve springs and the variable timing valve. Again don't worry about the variable timing stuff. It has nothing to do with installing the timing belt. Just line up the teeth for the timing belt with the marks.

 

Hi all, I got it started!!! The only problem that I have now is a high idle. She idles at 2k rpms in Park. When I rev it to 3000-3500 rpms, she wants to stay there until I blip the throttle again. When I drop it in gear, she idles around 1000 rpms. Could I have screwed up on the intake cam? Do I need to come back a tooth on the intake cam's cvvt pulley/gear? Thanks for any info!!!

 

Please READ this post. The variable intake system has NOTHING to do with the TIMING BELT! Line up the marks on the pulleys to the mark on the block and the timing cover AND THAT IS IT!
The variable timing mechanism is AFTER the pulley and does NOT alter the way the timing belt is lined up or is installed.
You probably did screw up the alignment of the belt if the way it now runs is different than before. Better double check.

 

What do you mean by that??

The intake on some or exhaust on some ARE the VVT setup.
The Shut off valve on the top of the cam cover only controls the flow of oil to the pulley itself.

 

What I mean is VVT or not, it has nothing to do with the installation of the timing belt on this engine. On the Volvo engine the whole VVT mechanism is between the cam pulley and the camshaft not between the cam pulley and the timing belt. It adjusts the phasing of the camshaft in relation to the pulley.

 

If the timing belt is off by one tooth it will mess up the VVT workings of the car.
It will also set a check engine light from being off by only one tooth.

So yes it does have an affect on the engine from having the belt off.

 

Yes of course being a tooth of on the belt has an impact on the engine. But this has nothing to do with the engine being a VVT engine. It has to do with the belt being of one tooth on the pulley which in turn trows of all the cam timing including the VVT.
No difference if this was a 1980 Ford Pinto 2.3 and the belt was of by one tooth.

 

Ok guys, I am so confused that I'm starting over again. I have alldata info for this car as well as the Volvo factory repair manual. In the alldata, it shows the cam notches(if facing them from the driver's side) slightly turned from parallel to the head. Is this correct or do the cam notches have to be parallel to the head??? Thanks for hanging in there with me guys

 

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Replacing The Timing Belt

Special tools
999 5433

Remove components

Caution: Remove the ignition key.



Remove: [*]the cross stay between the suspension turrets[*]the upper camshaft belt cover[*]the servo reservoir and expansion tank.[/ul]Lift them up and place them on top of the engine

Warning: Ensure that no power steering fluid is spilled. It is extremely flammable!
[*]the auxiliaries belt[*]the front camshaft belt cover.[/ul]Position the engine according to the marking



Remove the right front wheel.
Remove the nut from the cover in the fender liner.
Install the upper camshaft belt cover.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the markings on the crankshaft and camshaft pulley correspond.
Turn the crankshaft a further 1/4 turn clockwise and then back again until the markings correspond. The markings are illustrated.
Remove the upper camshaft belt cover.

Removing the camshaft belt



Slacken off the belt tensioner.
Slacken off the belt tensioner center screw slightly.
Hold the center screw still and turn the eccentric on the tensioner clockwise with a 6 mm (0.24") alien key to "10 o'clock".
Remove the camshaft belt from the tension pulley, camshaft pulley and water pump.

Remove the vibration damper



Remove the vibration damper. Use counterhold 999 5433. Work the vibration damper loose.
Remove the camshaft belt.

Checking the tension pulley and idler pulley



Check for bearing wear:
Spin the idler pulley and listen for noise. If replacing with a new idler pulley, tighten to 24 Nm.
Spin the tension pulley and listen for noise. When replacing, screw the tension pulley into place with the center screw.
spin the tension pulley and listen for noise. If replacing, screw the tension pulley into place with the center screw.
Screw in the center screw by hand.
Ensure that the tensioner fork is centered over the cylinder block rib.
Ensure that the alien hole on the eccentric is at"10 o'clock".

Installing the camshaft belt
Install the camshaft belt over pulley wheel on the crankshaft.
Install the vibration damper. Tighten the center nut to 180 Nm (132.8 ft. lbs.). Use counterhold 999 5433. Remove the counterhold and install new screws. Tighten the screws to 25 Nm (18.4 ft. lbs.).
Angle-tighten 30°

Install the new belt in the following order:


[*]crankshaft[*]idler pulley[*]intake camshaft pulley[*]exhaust camshaft pulley[*]water pump[*]belt tensioner.[/ul]Tighten the timing belt



This adjustment is to be made with a cold engine. A suitable temperature is approximately 20°C (68°F)/68°F.

At higher temperatures, for example with engine at operating temperature or at higher ambient temperature, the needle is further to the right.

The position of the needle, when aligning the camshaft belt tensioner at different engine temperatures, is shown in the illustration.

Tighten the timing belt as follows:


[*]turn the crankshaft clockwise carefully until the camshaft belt is tensioned. The belt should be tight between the intake camshaft pulley, idler pulley and crankshaft.[*]hold the center screw on the belt tensioner still and turn the eccentric on the belt tensioner counter-clockwise until the tensioner indicator passes the marked position.[/ul]Then turn the eccentric back so that the indicator reaches the marked position in the center of the window.
[*]Secure the eccentric and tighten the center screw to 20 Nm (14.8 ft. lbs.). Check that the needle is in the correct position.[/ul]Check



Checking markings:[*]press the belt to check that the indicator on the tensioner moves easily.[*]install the upper timing belt cover.[*]turn the crankshaft 2 turns and check that the markings on the crankshaft and camshaft pulley correspond.[*]check that the indicator on the belt tensioner is within the marked area.[/ul]Reinstall
Reinstall the removed components: [*]the front camshaft belt cover.[/ul]Tighten to 12 Nm (8.9 ft. lbs.)
[*]the upper camshaft belt cover[*]install the auxiliaries belt[*]the servo reservoir[*]the expansion tank[/ul]Note: Ensure that hoses are correctly positioned.


[*]the cross member. Tighten the screws at the suspension turret to 50 Nm (36.9 ft. lbs.) and the screw for the engine bracket to 80 Nm (59.0 ft. lbs.). [/ul]Wipe clean and check the engine compartment
[*]the cover in the fender liner[*]the front wheel according to Installing wheels.[/ul]Checking work
Function test: [*]Test drive the engine.[/ul]

 

2002, thank you for the info, but I did a head job, so the cams are misaligned. I need specific info on how the cams are positioned so the car can run correctly. I have all data and it is telling me to position the rear of the cams off parallel. Is this correct or do they need to be parallel? Thank you all very much! I'd be up ish creek if it werent for you all!!! This site really rocks...Hopefully when the time comes, I can help others that fal in my same situation...

 

It is a major pain to set it all up from here.
I missed from the begining that you did the head.
You should have locked the cams with the special tool then marked the VVT pulley before removing it.

Now you have to do a special precidure to get it all set back up again. You will also need a tool to lock the back of the cams.