I have an 03 S60 and the transmission seems to run fine when I start cold, but once the car is warmed up, a peculiar buzzing begins to develop around 25 mph. The car at high speeds still seems to be fine, but it is that 2 and third gear area that while running hot that seems to be the problem. Also, sometimes after I turn the car off, but soon thereafter start the car again, meaning it is still hot, the sounds coincides with the initial engine rev.

The car has ca 68K miles and I have only had the car about 10 months, so I am not sure about previous flushes etc...

I've seen descriptions of similar problems, but nothing that obviously paralleled what I am experiencing. But,... I apologize if this is completely redundant.

First, does anybody have any ideas about what the source of this sound might be? I can't tell if it really the transmission or some sympathetic (really unsympathetic) vibration. Why the difference between running warm and cold?

I've seen a lot suggestions about flushing the transmission or not flushing the transmission. The fluid is on the dark side and when I wipe it on a rag, it leaves a black-ish mark. Are there really dangers involved with a tranny flush on this model?

Advice please....

 

Volvo trannys are very tricky. The 02 and above s60 has an Aisin Warner tranny made by Toyota. Black tranny fluid = very bad. Get a flush get from IPD and DIY, saves hundreds. Make sure to get Mobil JWS 3309 which is specifically for this tranny and helps slip protection. If that does not work, take it to the Volvo dealer and have them update the tranny's computer. There are a number of updates for this year s60 for free.

 

Thanks for the advice.

Is the Mobil JWS 3309 actually preferable to the Volvo fluid? I assume that it is less expensive.
I am asking since I probably can't perform the flush myself (I live in a densely populated area and have no garage) and would likely need to request the fluid. There is a fairly good European car specialist nearby who charges quite a bit less than the Volvo specialist who charges quit a bit less than the dealer: I had a quote of $260 with Volvo fluid that they would purchase from the dealer... I assume the Mobil would be considerably less.

Also ... just for my own edification, any ideas as to why it only becomes a problem after the car is at operating temp... viscosity breakdown???

Thanks again for your time and consideration.

 

It's the exact same fluid except Volvo labels their Volvo brand. You might also want to try a Toyota dealer too since it's a Toyota tranny. They generally have the same fluid but a lot cheaper (Japanese vs. European cost). You don't need a garage to do the flush. You can do it in a driveway or street. All you need to pop off is the upper return line to the radiator. Put the flush tube in that line, start the car, pump out two quarts, fill with 2 quarts of new fluid into the tranny. Do it around 5 or 6 times or until you see the fluid run red through your return line tube. You really should DIY, not a hard job at all and saves you big bucks, trust me.

I do not have the web link on me, but it has been posted on a tranny flush post on this forum for a website that sells the Mobil ATF for much, much cheaper. Hopefully someone has it and will post it on here for you.

 

Thanks again.

The iPd tranny flush kit has what appears to be clear instructions on the procedure and I've seen a few posters recommendations on where to buy the Mobil fluid.

I was concerned about one person's advice in a related thread that stated:

"- if you have more than 60k miles and you're asking if you should flush, you need to. But instead of using the radiator method, remove the drain plug on the bottom of tranny (19mm if I remember, and brass-colored) and that will drain about 4qts of the fluid. "

My transmission milage would fall within this range. Is this a serious concern, or should I just do the complete flush?

There is also apparently some additive Seafoam Trans Tune that some recommend. Is this at all worth it? Is it applicable here? Sorry for the questioned generated by my ignorance. Last time I performed any work on a car was a good 15 years ago on my old 1972 144. Then things felt less risky with the lower tech cars and I wouldn't mind diving in and tackling things myself.

 

Hahaha it's no problem. Volvo becomes very vague in some aspects of it's maintenance. I would just do the flush kit; the drain-and-fill is a big pain in the ***, and the flush kit doesn't pressurize the line so you don't have to worry about knocking any deposits "loose".

I have an 2002 s60 with 95000 miles, and I flush it every 30,000 miles. At my most recent flush at 90,000, I bought some Slick 50 ATF treatment and put it in. I would recommend it. It keeps the bands all nice and lubed to prevent them from wear and slipping. Have not heard much about the Sea Foam tranny treatment, but I imagine it is just fine.

Here is the link for the discounted Mobil tranny fluid:

http://www.avlube.com/mobilatf3309.html

 

The Sea Foam Tranny Tune is supposed to de-gunk the transmission innards, and I wonder if it loosen deposits and create more trouble in the long run. One suggested use it to run it through prior to the draining/flushing.

At 69K I simply don't know what condition the tranny is in. I don't think the mechanic inspected the fluid at the 60K maintanance, which was actually done at 65K. Otherwise, I believe he would have noticed that it is not in great shape.

Again... sorry for the ignorance, but is there a transmission filter that I should be concerned about changing at some point? I've seen no inclusion of that aspect in any threads about changing the fluid.

 

There is no filter, but one reason I like the drain and fill methode is that there is a magnetic drain plug which had a pretty good layer of stuff on it when I did my first drain and fill, I did not bother with a flush as my fluid was not too bad at 58k miles when I did my first 2 drain and fills, I did a third later at the next oil change interval and plan on doing one at each oil change interval from here on out. Your fluid sounds bad enough to warrant the flush, I would stay away from the seafoam myself.(I have also never tried it)

 

Thanks too RGT.

My mileage is actually a little less than what I had remembered (67K) but the color of the fluid and behavior of the tranny still suggest a flush I gather. The odd thing is that the sound in question just occurred one day about a month ago. I haven't driven so much in that condition since I first heard it and I am hoping that I haven't caused any damage. I'll give the poor-man's flush a shot and hope that does the trick.

Follow up should include software upgrade/reset?

Ciao for now,

Derek

 

Itls the first 03 S60 I heard that had tranny problems. What I know are d 01-02 MY w/c had problems. Derek, go for the flush asap to save your tranny.

 

Beware if someone else does the "flush". To some shops, that means a pressurized machine used to push or pull gunk out of the transmission which is exactly what you DON'T want. Honda warns against it, too. Don't believe the shop that "ours is different". They all want to pay for those machines with your money. If you had Torque-Flite, Cruise-O-Matic or Hydramatic from 1969, I'd say go ahead and power flush. Otherwise, no.

It might seem expensive, but if it works, you've saved your transmission and literally thousands of dollars. There's more than a few threads here discussing the costs of Volvo transmissions here, and nobody's story has a truly happy ending.

 

Oddly... the behavioral problem is primarily a change in sound, but it clearly isn't "right". I haven't noticed a concrete change in performance... yet: No Jerking or erratic shifting or slipping. Any take on that???

Either way it is apparent that I ought to do the gravity flush and do it ASAP.

I still wonder if the sound of the tranny is changing only after the engine reaches operating temperatures because the fluid must have zero protective properties and that only becomes apparent once it is heated?

The only nice thing about knowing so little is that it still gives me the capacity to wonder.

 

Argh...

I cannot remove the lower hose from the radiator as per the instructions. I have been at it for over an hour. I've tried using a screw driver for leverage and to depress the tab. Then tried the upper hose and radiator end... oops. Big mistake.
Then purchased replacement claps and o-rings and tried to strategically calibrate vise-grips just tight enough to squeeze the green clam and provide a bit of leverage for wiggling the hose loose. I removed the air vent for more space too, but still...
I Can not get it to budge and beat the hell out of my knuckles.

I may have to go to a garage after all. My fear is that all the shops use this power flush (the volvo specialist says however that it uses the cars own compression so that it ought not create any more force than what the car would typically under go).

Any advice?

I just hope that I can get credit for the tranny fluid that I've already purchased.

Thanks in advance,

Derek

 

Just do the drain and refill system then run for about a 100 miles then repeat the drain/refill. You could do this till u r satisfied w/ the cleanliness of the fluid/ Should be bright red. U'll spend more if u go to the dealer.

 

The IPD flush kit gives a step buy step.Tube radiator .Start car pull 2 qts. shut car off put 2 qts in fill/dip stick and repeat until fluid runs red 12 quarts will do a full flush.
I just went threw a major trany problem on my 03 s60 AWD.I was getting service transmission required and a check engine light.Took it to the Stealership the car has a trany software update that fixed the problem.Tech told me that All 03-04 S60 should have update done,I would check it out.Car feels a little different but not in a bad way.GL

 

Thanks Manu and Myst6t,


I purchased the IPd kit, but cannot remove the lower hose. The upper hose came out easily, but that lower hose is not budging. Tried for hours. I will have to go the drain and fill route. Is 100 miles sufficient before a second drain and refill? How many of these things before the old fluid is considered sufficiently replaced.

Myst...
Is the software update free to your knowledge?

Anybody know if the B4 servo needs replacing in the 03?

Ciao for now,

Derek

 

This issue has become a catalytic converter issue.
I am surprised to hear that the buzzing associated that I was hearing around the time the car shifts from 2nd to 3rd was an emerging corroded dead spot in the catalytic converter that sympathetically vibrated only at certain vibration rates.

Thanks to everyone who answered my questions about transmissions (which still needs to have the fluid swapped-out in the near future), but turns out not to be the real problem.

Derek

 

MYST6, are u sure that 03-04 are those trannys affected by the software upgrade?
From what I read at MVS, 01-02s are those affected. Now u got me confused. I have an 03 2.3 T5 and have no tranny issue so far and it's got 82k miles on it. I hope u r wrong.

 

i think u should have it flushed properly and not a drain and fill since ur having shift flares one shift solienoid might be sticking. why waist ur money on drain and fill its going to cost u for the fluid might aswell due it right the first time also have them do a tcm reload not upgrade trust me upgrade makes it worst. it is intended to control harsh kick down on decceleration due to nuetral control valve. that being said rec. a reload.

 

after they reload and flush u have to reset fluid life counter and adaptation.
so the trans. will know that u have new fluid and adaptation of the solienoids will begin and will adapt to best shift points. beware of small shops that do flushes so many trans being damaged. and good trans. being replaced when only proper flush and software needed.