Twice now I've had an instance where the car will start and run for about 3-5 seconds, once it goes to idle normally after starting it shuts right off. You wait a second or two and then you can do it again, same result. I lock/unlock the car thinking it's the immobilizer causing an issue and eventually get the car to start. Not sure though, the immobilizer should cut all ignition? Not to mention, after this happens I have "check engine" "check transmission" on my display. Always have "check alarm system" as well. Thoughts?

*note: Both times this happened it has been in the 30s out whereas for as long as I've had this car before, temps were much higher. Also, the car sat 12 hours before this happened. Once I get it going, it won't happen again all day from what I've seen and acts like nothing ever happened.

 

It's the simple first.
Check the battery connections.


With an 04 age may be ahead of regular maintenance. And if you have a new battery, maybe the connections need a clean up.


I mean, disconnect and clean with a wire brush and then reconnect.
Positive and negative.


The things here are that there may be a sensed voltage drop and the immobilizer thinks invasion.


Second, it may "RESET" the brain. There are so many computers that affect other computers in modern day cars.


Finally, it's the cheapest thing to do first. If it's fixed, good. If not, it eliminates that issue.

 

Battery connections looked good and I had already reset the car, but I'll give them an extra cleaning today.

*edit: Cleaned. They looked brand new with absolutely no corrosion. Any other suggestions?

 

You mention the alarm light.
See if there is a fuse related and swap with known good

 

Happened again this morning, 11 degrees out, now I really can't get it to stay running. It starts and runs for about 5 seconds total, I notice that the RPM gauge isn't even moving with the engine RPM at all, I have all sorts of errors from Slip Control error to engine to transmission. Possible bad ECM? I'm not even sure what to look at here. Someone please give some input. I have an extended warranty thank god, so will be having it towed to a shop hopefully soon

 

How you gone to the dealer? A $60 diagnosis might be worth it.
I would consider dropping off the car at night and let them start it in the AM with you present. My local dealer has done this "morning Check for gremlins" in the past.

 

Yeah, I open my IT office 7am-3:30pm, bad hours for that. Also, here on Long Island, prices are double anywhere else. The estimate for diagnostics is $135 at the local Volvo dealer, my warranty will cover everything but that probably.

 

still might be worth the effort.

 

I'm going to remove the CEM myself this weekend and reseat the connections/relays.

*Seems upon reading even more, the TCM is responsible for the signal in regards to the RPM gauge. RPM gauge doesn't work when the issue occurs. Once it starts moving/working, the car acts like nothing happened. I lightly tapped on my TCM this morning which seems to have gotten the car going, I have a Service Transmission message currently.

*Just made an appointment with the local Volvo dealer, with this kind of issue I won't trust a normal mom & pop shop. Checked and they will work with my warranty to the best of their ability, not to mention I had good past experience with this dealer. Will keep everyone posted.

*Adding to the issue, as I was driving home today both the RPM and Temp gauge suddenly went dead a total of three times. Anti-skid service required also came up on the dash. This sound like TCM, CEM or just the DIM?


Update from the dealer:
So far it needs an ABS Module, TCM Reprogram/update, alarm siren, front left outside tie rod AND further overnight diagnostics which are on hold due to me needing a loaner car when they take mine (which they won't have for a week, this should be fun). The ECM is losing sync so they need to look into that more. Joy.