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2004 Volvo S60 front left driver side axle removal and install

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Old 11-16-2017, 08:53 PM
Mike Antenucci's Avatar
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Default 2004 Volvo S60 front left driver side axle removal and install

Volvo
2001-2009 s60 & V70
Automatic Transmission
front driver side axle installThis should cover the following volvo vehicles.

VOLVO
S60
2001-2009
VOLVO
V70
2001-2007
This is my first repair write up. While cleaning my girlfriend’s 2004 Volvo S60 I noticed grease was being thrown in the driver side front wheel well. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1y1y...ew?usp=sharing Upon inspection, discovered a slight tear in the cv axle boot. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SB-...ew?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MBS...ew?usp=sharing Browsing for a replacement boot I found it was cheaper to just buy a complete new axle. Purchased SURTRACK/TRAKMOTIVE VO8016 from www.rockauto.com for $50.29. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=3002909&jsn=1

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YPW...ew?usp=sharing After doing some research I found it is not necessary to remove the ball joints to complete this job. This is a good time to inspect them though.1. Tools Used

A. Cordless Electric Drill

B. Cordless Electric impact 1/4” & 3/8” drive

C. Ratchets Sockets & Extensions

i. 1/2” drive breaker bar

ii. 3/8” drive flex head ratchet

iii. 1/4” drive ratchet

iv. 1/4” and 3/8” drive extensions.

v. 13mm deep

vi. 10mm

vii. 13/16” deep

D. Wrench

i. 18mm wrench

E. Standard screwdrivers.

i. Assortment of types, few dull ones for wedging out the axle if necessary

F. 5lb soft mallet and standard hammer

G. Carpenters deconstruction bar

H. Petroleum jelly

I. Sandpaper

2. Before you start

1. Make sure you have a safe level spot to work.
2. Don’t rely on a floor jack or the one that came with your car, have some jack stands. The jack that came standard with the Volvo is super sketchy at best.
3. The wheels on this series of car tend to corrode to the rotors and get stuck on. Here is a quick way to brake them free from the car.
a. Loosen lugs slightly while car is on the ground
b. Jack car up
c. Back the lug bolts out about 2 full turns
d. Lower the car down until you see the wheel free up from the rotor.
i. This will separate the wheel from the rotor using the weight of the car. Trust me this is the easiest way to brake the wheel loose if stuck on.
4. The Volvo I was working on has 2 jack points. I put the car’s jack under the rear jack point. Raise the car up enough so the front jack point will fit my jack stand where I want it. I then release the pressure from the cars jack so the weight is resting on the jack stand. I then place another jack stand up by where I’m working under a load accepting spot in case the load on the jack stand fails.
5. Take photos and mark everything so it goes back in the exact same spot. A job never goes smoothly on a high mileage Volvo so photos later to reference help.3. Here is a collection of photos of what everything looked like before I removed anything or installed anything new. In case you need a reference for putting things back together.

i. https://drive.google.com/file/d/13BV...ew?usp=sharing

ii. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1y28...ew?usp=sharing

iii. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1myn...ew?usp=sharing

iv. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MBS...ew?usp=sharing

v. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1THH...ew?usp=sharing

4. Removal

A. Before you jack the car up I found having the wheel turned all the way to the left gave more room to remove the axle. You can do this later but requires lifting the other side so it does not shift on the jack stands.

B. Remove wheel using a 19mm deep socket

i. Refer to 2.3 if you are having issues separating the wheel.

ii. https://drive.google.com/file/d/13BV...ew?usp=sharing

iii. Notice the corrosion on rotor where the wheel meets. Clean this up on the rotor and wheel before reinstalling.

C. Mark the location of the struts and the bolts so you don’t need an alignment

i. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OCV...ew?usp=sharing

ii. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fGj...ew?usp=sharing

D. Remove brake line support with 10mm ¼” socket. This is necessary so you don’t accidently stretch the brake lines

i. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wUx...ew?usp=sharing

ii. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ysi...ew?usp=sharing

E. Remove bolt holding axle into wheel bearing with 13mm socket

i. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZUY...ew?usp=sharing

F. Remove Abs sensor with 10mm 1/4” socket and extension.

G. I also carefully removed the plastic clip holding the abs sensor line to the strut.

H. Remove lower 2 strut bolts using 18mm wrench on the left side and 13/16” socket on the right side.

i. Make sure everything is marked before you remove this part.

ii. Impact helps a ton for this part.

iii. I placed a smaller diameter bolt in the lower so that it would not completely separate or come loose on me when I move things around.

iv. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xAW...ew?usp=sharing

v. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WJU...ew?usp=sharing

I. After strut bolts are removed and a bolt is in the lower strut hole do not remove the axle from the assembly right away. Between the axle and the bearing is a dust cap that can break easily.

i. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1--1...ew?usp=sharing

J. Carefully pull the top of the rotor down to separate the axle.

i. Note the way the dust cap fit in-between the axle and backside of the wheel bearing.

K. Separate the axle from the transmission

i. This proved to be decent amount of trouble to get out. The research I did made it seem like this is a common problem.

ii. The axle has a clip inside where you can’t get to that holds it in inside the transmission.

iii. This is where the assortment of standard screwdrivers and the carpenter’s deconstruction bar come in handy.

iv. https://drive.google.com/file/d/19Sw...ew?usp=sharing

v. Try to drive a dull screwdriver or the carpenter’s bar between the transmission and the axle to wedge it apart. Volvo makes a specific tool for this so it can be pulled out with even pressure. Keep in mind even pressure when wedging the axle out. The screwdriver seemed to be more successful for me.

vi. The axle needs to be popped out not pried out or leaned on if possible.

vii. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O8M...ew?usp=sharing

viii. Make sure Clip did not come out inside of the transmission during removal

ix. Inspect all seals for any damage from removal

5. Install

A. Tap & Die all corroded bolts

B. Insert shaft into transmission

i. Be careful not to damage the new clip on the new axle

ii. Do not stretch excessively out on the joint when installing into transmission

iii. I applied some petroleum jelly to the spline and around the clip to help the new axle slide right in easier.

C. Apply dust cap to the other end of axle.

i. I also applied to petroleum jelly to the dust cap to hold it to the axle.

ii. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Qzl...ew?usp=sharing

D. Insert axle into assembly.

i. Applied petroleum jelly to the splines here also.

E. Reinstall axle bolt to pull axle in to fit.

F. Reinstall all remaining parts listed in removal instructions.

G. Look to see if you lost a dust cap for the brake caliper when doing project. Seems to be a common issue from my research.

i. https://drive.google.com/file/d/13vr...ew?usp=sharing

Hope this helps you get back on the road safe and easy!
 

Last edited by Mike Antenucci; 11-16-2017 at 09:28 PM.
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